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Hi all
is it okay to just replace the shackles if the hangers are okay
There are no shackles on that end .I Would replace those hangers especially now when the box is off. .it will be a matter of time before they are rotted through. I just did mine . Think the hangers are around 50 each on rock auto.I bought the doorman brand . Comes with all the hardware including the spring bushing bolt. Preety easy. I would suggest needle gun that frame to knock off the scale and spray on woolwax. You’ll thank me later. Awesome product that stops rust. Look it up. Ps when ordering hangers be sure to specify 2 wheel or 4 wheel drive also front or back Front and back are for sure different The one your showing in pic is a front.
There are no shackles on that end .I Would replace those hangers especially now when the box is off. .it will be a matter of time before they are rotted through. I just did mine . Think the hangers are around 50 each on rock auto.I bought the doorman brand . Comes with all the hardware including the spring bushing bolt. Preety easy. I would suggest needle gun that frame to knock off the scale and spray on woolwax. You’ll thank me later. Awesome product that stops rust. Look it up. Ps when ordering hangers be sure to specify 2 wheel or 4 wheel drive also front or back Front and back are for sure different The one your showing in pic is a front.
thanks for the help great tips on frame prep and hangers. Should the rear end be jacked up and tires off the ground before removing shackles. I have new shocks also should it be jacked up or sitting when I install them. Thanks
To remove the shackles you need to support the truck by the frame and let the axle hang. Remove the spring bolts, and let the axle rest on stands, and then remove and replace the shackles.
Put the shocks in with the truck at it's normal ride height.
Thanks for all the help I would not be this far on the project without you guys. I just purchased 2 shackles from advance got both for 75.00 20 % off .
I will be removing the brake lines today and removing rust getting ready to prime. I will remove the wheels also probably need wheel cylinders and drum shoes.
To install the shackles should I lift the frame evenly on both sides a little at a time. Do I do it till the tires leave the ground. Should the Jack's be in front or behind the leaf springs . Can I lift the truck by getting under the differential then put stands under frame.
thanks
You can stick a jack under the differential housing and lift from there. What I would do is lift the axle, and pull the wheels off. This will give you more room to work, but also let you keep the vehicle fairly low. Then put jack stands under the frame. I usually stick a couple stands under the frame behind the cab, and then another set rearward, under the hitch, just in case.
Thanks GN I need to get my sons stands today I only have one set. Should I grease the shackle bolts and put some lock thread on. I saw on you tube that you need to tighten to 160 ft lbs till the serrations on the bushings bite into the hanger bracket.
Should i do one side at a time. Since the shocks are off will that be a problem?
Can i replace the leaf spring bushing with the leafs still on?
How many ft lbs for the shackles to squeeze the bracket to cut into the serations?
I heard that you dont tighten the shackles until the truck is at rest on its tires.
Thanks GN I need to get my sons stands today I only have one set. Should I grease the shackle bolts and put some lock thread on. I saw on you tube that you need to tighten to 160 ft lbs till the serrations on the bushings bite into the hanger bracket.
Never heard this one. Seeing how shackles and such need to pivot in order for the springs to move I say wrong. I have always used a new locking nut and tightened until tight but never to the point of crushing things tight. I put some grease or anti-seize on the bolt body but keep most off the threads, to help keep nuts from backing off.
Never heard this one. Seeing how shackles and such need to pivot in order for the springs to move I say wrong. I have always used a new locking nut and tightened until tight but never to the point of crushing things tight. I put some grease or anti-seize on the bolt body but keep most off the threads, to help keep nuts from backing off.
the bushing on OEM shackles have a serrated end those are to grip the shackle walls as I was told on YouTube
the bushing on OEM shackles have a serrated end those are to grip the shackle walls as I was told on YouTube
You’ll be frightened to see what happens when a serrated suspension bolt, even in 10.9 hardness, wears down. I advise new hardware if there is any question of fastener integrity especially if it was a torque to yield or rusted.
Yes, the tube inside the bushing should be clamped securely to the hanger by the bolt.
160 ft- lbs seems high, but the point is that the bolt needs to be GRABBING that sleeve.
The rubber bushing flexes as the spring moves- NOTHING in the hanger-bushing interface
should be able to move.
Yes, the tube inside the bushing should be clamped securely to the hanger by the bolt.
160 ft- lbs seems high, but the point is that the bolt needs to be GRABBING that sleeve.
The rubber bushing flexes as the spring moves- NOTHING in the hanger-bushing interface
should be able to move.
Or it will wear through in pretty short order.
Like mine did.
t
Learned something .. I guess..
Scratching my head... I did shackles for a guy few years back. They were on a 2002ish F150 2wd. Looked like factory bolts and all. However they were shoulder bolts. Both shackle and spring?
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