I am in the process of replacing my vent window seal on the front of the division bar. My old seal was completely gone, so I have no reference point. I am confused about which way the seal mounts. Before I rivet the new one down I want to make sure it's correct. Does the curved side point towards the inside of the cab?

1956 division bar vent window seal. Which way goes towards the cab?
Thanks for your help!

 

Best I can do, the curve goes out. I got the "fancy" division bars that were already complete. For a second I was like, "rivet??" Then I remembered that you can also just buy the seals and reuse your old bars, saves money. But my bars felt linings were the reason for the replacement, not the seal, believe it or not.

 

Thanks Moroto! That helps a lot!

 

So even though I got some great pictures and help from mOROTO, I still am a little lost. So on the attached picture, I show an arrow, showing the position of the "nose" of the seal. Do I have it right?
Thank You in advance for your help and patience!

Correct orientation?

 

This morning I replaced the entire drivers (left) side division bar assembly in my 1956 F100. Your picture with arrow pointing to the inside of the cab looks correct. The flat side (bottom in your picture) attaches to the division bar.

 

I want to say Thank You to mOROTBREATH and 1956_F-100 for their responses! The more and closer I gave the pics that mOROT sent and looking at the truck and how the window closed the more confident I was about the orientation.
After saying that, I will say this, you guys did the absolute correct thing by just replacing the division bars. Just replacing those vent weather strips is quite a job, drilling out the old rivets, which I tried to do very carefully and center punch them, and using a smaller than the rivet hole drill bit, turned out they weren't quite centered, I ended up with larger holes than the rivet head, thus needing to put very small washers under the head. Then you almost need 4 hands to smack the rivets down, which kept slipping out of the holes and loosing them because they are so small. (I don't know why they couldn't send a you a couple of more rivets. Really how expensive could they be?) Anyway it took much of the afternoon just to do the driver's side. Granted maybe if I was more skilled. But in the end, the first one turned out good, hopefully the other will too.
If I had to do it all over again, I would just spend the extra money for the whole division bar, with the new vent seals installed!

 

Part of me wants to try this seal replacement on my old division bars just so I can have as much fun as you're having. Gotta find out for myself, and I've never used rivets before in my life by the way....

 

LOL! The fun will continue. Before I put it back together inside the door, and while I still have the glass out, I am going to swallow hard and work on my driver side door alignment. The door opens and shuts just fine but, it sits about 1/16th of an inch too low. It gaps at the top and you can see day light through the crack. I really hate to do it, because right now the door opens and shuts very nicely and adjusting door gaps can be a difficult job. But I have a plan. I found in a Chevy Tri-5 forum that guys were using some slit pieces of rubber hose to help set their door gaps, and from another forum here, found a tip on lift aligning the door using an engine lift. So my plan is using an engine lift to gently pick up the door using a flat strap looped through the window frame. While the door is shut, inside door pocket bolts loose, and being being barely lifted, I am going to use some cedar shims sitting on top of 2 X 4s stacked on top of the running boards. Lift a little, slide in a shim just a little more, lower the lift and check top and side gaps. Still not right? Lift and re-position to the left and right using the slit rubber hose as a guide, and adjust shims for top to bottom best fit. If I can get it good, then tighten up the door pocket bolts. The door jamb adjustments seem good already and will hopefully stay that way. We'll see if this lift and shim method really works. Stay tuned!