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I’m looking for a reproduction or NOS cargo / dome light wiring harness part # D5TB-14334-CA (I believe this to be correct; it’s slightly faded) I don’t think I’m going find this. If anyone knows a source please advise. I have looked at DC, LMC, Rockauto, Bronco Graveyard & Mac’s to name a few with nothing to show for.
My second option - find this connector (the clip part is broken off completely) and repair this harness:
Lastly - if anyone has any pics as to what wires go where I would greatly appreciate the reference. It’s not super complicated but I’m trying not to reverse anything. Thanks!
From what I can tell there are none of these trucks to be found in any junkyards in Northern California. This was also something I was considering.
If all you need is the end piece and willing to splice that same connector was used in about every Ford product during the 70's to 90's. Pintos to Town Cars. Thin narrow putty knife slipped under edge side to side helps removing.
1st off you do know that you can turn the dome light on, with the rotation of the headlight switch (when the doors are closed).
For the domelightwire, hot-at-all-times power comes goes to the headlight switch as a GREEN with YELLOW stripe wire. Domelightpower comes back out as a BLACK with BLUE stripe wire. The same color scheme is used at the door jamb switches. BLACK with BLUE stripe runs out to the actual domelight. BLUE with a RED stripe is instrument panel illumination. It comes out of the headlight switch to the fuse box, leaves the fuse box again as the same color and is distributed throughout the dash. There is no ground connection to the domelightswitches or the headlight switches. These switches switch power, not ground.1) Make sure you have 12 volts on both sides of the courtesy lamp fuse. This circuit is hot at all times, so it doesn't make a difference what position the key is in. If you have power on only one side, replace the fuse. If you don't have power on either side, then there is other work to do first.
2) Pull the domelightswitches out and remove them. Make sure the terminal for the GREEN with YELLOW stripe wire in the connector has power.
3) Check the domelightswitches for continuity. With the plunger all the way out (switch CLOSED), the switch should be shorted. With the plunger pushed all the way in (switch OPEN), the switch should be open. If not, replace the switch.
4) With power to the switch proven to be good, and the switches proven to be good, the domelightshould lightup. If the domelightdoes not lightup, remove the cover and check for power at the domelight(not the side that's permanently grounded to sheetmetal) with the door OPEN. If you have power here, yet the bulb does not lightup, replace the bulb.
This will prove out the door-side; if you get to the point that the doors turn the lighton but the headlight switch will not, then we have more work to do.
If all you need is the end piece and willing to splice that same connector was used in about every Ford product during the 70's to 90's. Pintos to Town Cars. Thin narrow putty knife slipped under edge side to side helps removing.
good info... thx for sharing. I might have to go this way.
1st off you do know that you can turn the dome light on, with the rotation of the headlight switch (when the doors are closed).
For the domelightwire, hot-at-all-times power comes goes to the headlight switch as a GREEN with YELLOW stripe wire. Domelightpower comes back out as a BLACK with BLUE stripe wire. The same color scheme is used at the door jamb switches. BLACK with BLUE stripe runs out to the actual domelight. BLUE with a RED stripe is instrument panel illumination. It comes out of the headlight switch to the fuse box, leaves the fuse box again as the same color and is distributed throughout the dash. There is no ground connection to the domelightswitches or the headlight switches. These switches switch power, not ground.1) Make sure you have 12 volts on both sides of the courtesy lamp fuse. This circuit is hot at all times, so it doesn't make a difference what position the key is in. If you have power on only one side, replace the fuse. If you don't have power on either side, then there is other work to do first.
2) Pull the domelightswitches out and remove them. Make sure the terminal for the GREEN with YELLOW stripe wire in the connector has power.
3) Check the domelightswitches for continuity. With the plunger all the way out (switch CLOSED), the switch should be shorted. With the plunger pushed all the way in (switch OPEN), the switch should be open. If not, replace the switch.
4) With power to the switch proven to be good, and the switches proven to be good, the domelightshould lightup. If the domelightdoes not lightup, remove the cover and check for power at the domelight(not the side that's permanently grounded to sheetmetal) with the door OPEN. If you have power here, yet the bulb does not lightup, replace the bulb.
This will prove out the door-side; if you get to the point that the doors turn the lighton but the headlight switch will not, then we have more work to do.
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