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My local jy has a 6/79 F250 that has dana 60's front and rear. Gearing is 3.54. They will pull them for $1500 for BOTH.
Front, I get the front spring mount, leaves, axle, complete sway bar with end links, rotors, calipers and recently installed brake flex lines and stock lockouts. Not aftermarket.
Rear, drum to drum, factory rear blocks.
Probably a dumb question, but should I buy these with 3.54 gearing? I think yes. Will this gearing be prohibitive to using 37" and bigger. I might just sell it to.
Last edited by black & blue 78/9; Mar 30, 2021 at 10:02 PM.
Reason: Update
If that is a high pinion dana 60 it is an absolute no brainer to buy all of that for $1,500. 3.54 gears be darned. It's a good deal that you can easily make money off of, use as is, or regear if you have other needs.
You can always buy it and then make a swap with a guy who has a D60 with 4.11s if you don't like 3.54s. If you have any sort of power adders with your engine you probably won't notice much of a difference between the gear ratios. With 35" tires at 55 mph in direct drive, it is under a 300 rpm difference.
Should I pass on the rear? I was thinking I should buy it to have matching ratios.
I will be buying front axle, rotors, calipers, sway bar, links and clamps, leave springs still attached to the axle, front/back leave mounts, steering gear box, steering wheel, manual trans TILT steering column, shaft between column and gear box, complete rear axle ( drum to drum), factory rear block, front drive shaft, midship plastic gas tank steel surrond, Edelbrock 4bl and eddy alum intake. All for under $1k. They pull.
If I dont buy the rear axle, I would save about $250-300.
If I was you, I would pass on it and PM me the location. Lol If you know you are going to regear the front then why buy the rear axle, unless you need it in the 1st place.
There is no need to pass on the rear axle if you need it or want it. Just don't think there is any monetary value in the rear axle. They do just fine, but if you are looking to put a ton of power down you will be wanting something bigger than that D60 rear.
Should I pass on the rear? I was thinking I should buy it to have matching ratios.
I will be buying front axle, rotors, calipers, sway bar, links and clamps, leave springs still attached to the axle, front/back leave mounts, steering gear box, steering wheel, manual trans TILT steering column, shaft between column and gear box, complete rear axle ( drum to drum), factory rear block, front drive shaft, midship plastic gas tank steel surrond, Edelbrock 4bl and eddy alum intake. All for under $1k. They pull.
If I dont buy the rear axle, I would save about $250-300.
I'd buy that in a heart beat.
you can't touch a 77.5-79 hp 60 around here.
I'd probly regear to 4.54. I just did gears in my jeep (4.88)
invested in a press made a set of set bearing, some measuring tools..
probably have 10hours into taking front and rear axles apart setting pinion depth and backlash. Set up bearings are a must..
Knowing the numbers having the tools to see those numbers and shims to bring them into the ball park,, paint and repeat.
Do you figure someone put 60 under a 250 out of a 350. I'm sure glad listening to y'all I bought 79 f 350 for 700 bucks and stripped it sold the body and trans the guy wanted the # on the body 500 bucks so I got all my stuff for 200 I'm willing to sell for 3000 to the gentleman above, lol
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