I am working on rerunning my brake lines from the firewall mounted master on my 53 f100. Drums on all 4 for now. Would like to see pictures and any suggestions.

 

Pappy, I am guessing that you don't have the original lines to copy? If so, maybe check out "Inline Tube's" web site. Under your application they show a photo of the pre-bent lines they offer. That might give you an idea of the original lines paths if that is what you need?

The bottom line shown goes from the rear axle brass junction block to the master cylinder junction block. The next line up goes from the right rear wheel to the rear axle junction block. The next one up goes from the left rear wheel to the rear axle junction block. The last two lines shown go to the front wheels from the junction block at the master. I'm not positive but I think the 2nd to top line if RF wheel to master and top line shown is left front.

I haven't bought brakes lines from Inline tube, but has bought other items that were impressive quality and made in the USA. They even offer mounting tabs that look correct. On my '54 I carefully copied my original steel lines.

 

I just finished the brake and fuel lines on my 52 f3 a few weeks ago . I went to to Napa and got 25 foot rolls of copper nickel alloy line and all the fittings needed and hand bent them my self so I could keep it as neat and clean as possible. I have found the copper nickel alloy to be more forgiving to work with then steel or stainless steel and I think it looks good too. I also used a hydraulic flaring tool form Eastwood yes it was 300 dollars but worth every penny of it as it will make more then just 45 degree double flares there is a lot you can do with it. Some of my friends have seen what it can do and have me make lines for them so it is paying for it self. You should keep the lines as long as you can so you don't have any more connections then necessary. This can be a pain at times but the more connections you have my lead to more chances for leeks. Don't try to do it by yourself a third hand will be helpful . Now all that being said I had some trial and error on my truck but with patience I was able to get the clean and neat look I wanted.

Hope this helps.

 

I'm currently making new brake lines for my 1956 F100. The brakes are all stock, including the master cylinder but I couldn't use a pre-bent kit because of the C6 trans and 390 setup. I'm using steel lines. I just don't have the confidence in a copper nickel brake line. I'm sure they are plenty strong enough, but, truly I'll probably need to replace wheel cylinders and master cylinder every 4 or 5 years just as maintenance to prevent leaks and I don't know how many times a soft copper flared ends will survive removal and installations. I do know the flared ends of copper fuel lines only last two, maybe three installations. After that, they don't seal anymore. Also, copper nickel tube in a roll is very difficult to straighten. There are straightening tools, but, that's another added expense for a single purpose specialty tool.

Aside from that, steel lines that small are easy to bend with plier type tubing benders. And you'll need a good flaring tool but is doesn't need to be a high dollar hydraulic or turret style. The parts store or Harbor Freight quality flaring tools just won't work. Lisle makes a good flaring tool for brake lines, 33260 | Lisle Corporation . I purchased mine from Amazon and so far it works great.

Whatever brake line you decide to use, don't forget the Gravel Guard. That is the spring looking steel or stainless steel cover slipped over the brake lines to protect them. Especially is you use copper nickel tubing. That soft stuff will ding easily if something hits it. NAPA doesn't carry Gravel Guard for tubing.

So far the best place I have found for brake lines, fittings, grave guard, etc. is The Stop Shop, Copper Nickel tubing, Classic Car Parts and Prebent Lines – TheStopShopParts Their prices are much lower than NAPA and they have everything you need.