ok speed density people, i have a 92 bronco with the 351 w in it. i know it speed density, which may be a problem....but i am looking for some advice because i am wanting to rebuild it. it has 140000 hard miles and still runs good, but want to make it new again before i put too many more miles on it.

which means, i want to machine it (does $300 sound like enough to do that?????),

and then add a 383 stroker kit i found for roughly $800

and add a pair of gt-40 p heads for around $500. and maybe some headers...


is that possible???


if it is what do i have to do for the speed density to recognize the mods. i have heard of having an engine chipped ???

can someone explain what i need to do to get all this to work??


and can someone give me an idea oh how much it might make over stock the stock 200hp and 300ft/lbs of torque..

thanks for any help.....

just new to engine building.


thanks again

 

In order to build a stroker, or any motor with that serious of mods, you will need to convert from SD to MAF.

If you want to stay SD because of the $700 price tag for the MAF conversion, a stock bottom end with a mild cam upgrade is about as radical as you can go internally. You MAY be able to upgrade to the GT40P's as well. What they mean by 'chipped' is have a custom computer chip burned for your combo....anywhere from $150-$300, check Motorhaven (this site) for their selection. Exhuast is one of the areas you you can do just about anything with SD because it doesn't affect the vacuum signal/ airflow.

Machine work varies, but around here the cost to bore a block is $35 a hole - about $280 for a V8. That's just to bore it. Then adding the cost of tanking, magnifluxing, milling (if needed), install cam bearings....etc.etc.....well it adds up to over $500. Again that's around here, check your area for differences.

 

You might be able to beat the kit price, I don't know your resources though. Just get a list of all the items in the stroker kit. Then figure this you have the rods so you don't need new ones but you do need arp bolt for them. You can use a scat crank but you will want to balance it either way you go. And as far as pistons any 302 piston will work as long as they are for non stroker applications and compression should be kept in mind when selecting your piston and then whatever bearings or gaskets figure that in as well. As mentioned your cam is your greatest drawback as long as your lobe seperation is around 112 or 114 (112 is more radiacal if you will) you should be good according to many recent posts where this has been done. However should you wanna get even more radical then get the cam specs for the more aggressive cam that comp cams or crane cams recommends let them pick the cam no matter what people tend to pick a cam they think they need/want and the cam manufacturer should give you a cam that delivers. Then call a chip company and ask them if they can set you up with something that will allow a smooth idle and optimal performance. Either way they will say yeah so don't be upset if it doesn't work out the first time but they should be able to nail it. Your best bet would be to dyno the motor and get some real world info on what your motor needs to run. If you figure in chips and dyno time the maf looks real good doesn't it, but the dyno isn't necassary. There is a computer and chip section on this board ask them maybe someone in the know can provide you with a more clear answer to what they can an cannot do. good luck, later

 

thanks for the help everyone...

i could still use some more advice though on machining costs and if i need to do more than just have it bored over..... but here is some things i have found....



here is the stroker kit i am possibly going to use:

http://www.speedomotive.com/383Forged.htm

mass air flow conversion i found at pitstopautoparts.com cost 750 bucks.

and i thought, if i upgrade to maf, if i add a cam to the mix with the gt 40 p heads and headers, i figure i can up my stock hp and torque ratings by at lease a hundred in each catagory... does that sound too optimistic???

and then what should i do to my e4od??? does it need to be rebuilt or just beffed up???


thanks for any additional help

 

Give a local speed or machine shop a call and just ask them what would they charge worst case scenario to prep a block bore, align hone and installing cam bearings which should be included anyway also see what they would charge to balance the rotating assembly as well, this is if you want to assemble it yourself. Your tranny depends on another issue that comes up as you start thinking what if this or that. If you do opt to go with a more agressive cam that performs in a higher rpm range you could go with a higher stall converter to help make streetablility better somewhat and your overall feel of the vehicle better as far as power and tq. If you have the money then go ahead and put new clutches and steels in the tranny along with a shift kit it can only help and should do fine, as with all performance parts how long they last depends on you more than the product. as mentioned before the kit price you have found is great but you might be able to save money piecing it together, even in the kit you mentioned it isn't balanced. Your guesstimate of adding a 100hp over stock is a safe bet I would think you would add more than that. Given stock is 220+/- hp, if your motor doesn't make more than 320hp with a stroker crank and bigger cam then something is wrong. the gt-40p are more than capable to handle or create that kinda hp. Besides its the torque your after being it is a truck, and you should be happy. Side note if I were gonna go to the trouble of a 393 then I would definitely consider a 408 not much difference in price and opt to have a shop port those heads which usually runs $400 with larger valves around here. Yeah everyone is gonna say your gonna choke your motor and in reality you are but if you just want a strong street motor with great down low tq and hp then it should do fine. Otherwise your gonna need some new aftermarket heads. Another thing to throw at you you might consider going with a custom cam it will cost a little more but take full advantage of all the componenets and the vehicle they are in. Just make sure you explore every aspect of your build down to the tranny and rear end gears and all options available and then purchase the cam last no matter which way you go. Just throwing out idea so check around and see what you decide. Moral of the story inform the crap outta yourself before you make any decision. Later