hi!! can anyone tell me how to change my spark plugs? a quik reply would be greatly appreciated pls!! ❤😘

 

Replacing sparkplugs on the 4.6 / 5.4 Triton motors is not for the faint of heart, it can be pretty intimidating, even for experienced DIY'ers. The best thing to do is watch several Youtube videos on the procedure and see if it's something you want to tackle. A magnetic sparkplug socket and 7mm swivel head wrench will get you a long way in the job though.

 

There are plenty of threads around here covering this very subject. The one thing that can't be stressed enough is correct spark plug torque using a torque wrench.

 

Tape your sockets, extensions and elbows together with electrical tape. You don't want to lose your tools.

 

Changing the plugs on a 5.4l is a day project for sure. Fordtechmakuloco is one of the best Ford Techs on Youtube. He made a really detailed video called "Important tips when replacing spark plugs on Ford 4.6L 5.4L 6.8L 2v engines" that you absolutely should watch start to finish BEFORE you try it out for yourself. Your older engine has an issue with spitting the plugs out if they're not torqued to the proper levels, he goes into that problem and tells you what to do differently to prevent that from happening to you. Make sure you're careful with the fuel rail and injectors because they're right in the way of the spark plugs, its a tight fit. Good luck!

 

I just did mine... Lemme say I have never had a tune up job take so dam long in my life 😂 🤣 seriously tho I spent prob a good 8-10 hrs getting it done they say the d/s is the easiest lol 😂 i call 100% Bullllll S*** !!!!!!!! The last 2 on the D/s near the fire wall are a complete pain in the *** to manover out and back in the dam fuel rail is in the way along with the fuel pressure regulator. The only way I got the second one farthest from the wall was by using a 7mm small wrench and let me say that was still a b****. The one on top of the fire wall requires you to remove the EGR assembly including the exhaust part. As far as the P/s goes remove the relay for the starter on the firewall and the ECU harness it allows for just.enough room. Also I would recommend using swivel extensions and swivel adapters together. I know everyone says use motorKraft but news flash they hardly make copper.ones anymore so I went with NGK copper V gapped at .55 for 2.99.@ autozone.... Lemme say this #wow what a difference! My truck has 225k on her and after the plugs she drives better than ever. I'm about to buy some new coils to see if it'll give it just a little more umph lol 😂 anyways good luck and be safe don't forget to grab a 18pk cause your gonna need it! Also music helps!

 

Now you know why the dealer charges $1,200 to do it.

 

Ya I told my 14yr old the same dam thing lol the messed up part is the fact I recently did the trans a couple months back I never put the wheel well covers or fan cover heat shield back lol so all I had to take off was the EGR the air intake the relay and main harness and it still took me that dam long I was pissed as hell but in the end it was well worth it 100% I paid what 20 instead of 1200 ya I can deal with hard work for 10hrs np there lol 😂

 

Just brought my 06 Expedition to an independant shop a few minutes ago. Said if everything goes good should be ready tomorrow @ $400+. He said he did 2 last week with just 2 broken between em. Keeping my fingers crossed.

 

Not sure if u own tools or not but honestly you could go to harbor freight grab the biggest mechanic toolstool they got for like 180 get an extra set of extensions for 10 and then the plugs for 20 and save 200 just food for thought... I'm not a full blown mechanic by any means and ever since I bought mine may2019 I've done all the work and saved myself 1,000s it's just nuts n bolts don't be afraid to dig in man seriously and remember if u break something the junk yard has parts cheap I just did my whole front end suspension and I ****ed up my d/s spindle by stripping the bolt for the hub... Paid 30bucks and walked out with a spindle already pulled now shes good as new total in parts was 500 for new struts, rotor/hub, bearings in and out, upper n lower control arms and ball joints plus inner n outter tierods and sway bar links

 

What's the plug gap and torque spec on the 99 ? I need to do mine as soon as my rotator cuff is fixed.

 

30 ft/lbs is enough on the torque.

4.6 -> 0.054 (another site listed 0.059)
5.4 -> 0.054

 

THANKS !!!!!

 

According the FSM the gap is .052-.056 and the torque is 15 ft. lbs. for both the 2-valve and 4-valve engines. The 4V isn't as much of an issue, but if you have the 2V then there are only 3 threads in the head for the spark plug and over-torquing stresses the threads to the point where the spark plugs can blow out of the engine. It's a know issue with many threads here in this forum on the subject. Also, use a mild amount of anti-seize on the spark plug threads when installing them.

 

That's good to know. THANKS.

I know there were issues with them blowing out, but I thought I remembered reading on a couple of the forums that people were slightly over-torquing them as a fix. Supposedly, with only 3-4 threads, the plugs were loosening up, and blowing out. That made "slight" sense to me, but wondered what value they were using . 15-20 ft/lbs definitely sounds more reasonable to me. THANKS !!!!!!