When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey guys... so my SUV stopped on me a few times out of nowhere... then it finally just didnt come back on. So I thought it might have been the starter... got a new starter and that didnt do it. Then I read up and saw the 'fuse box' issue with this particular model and low and behold... that didnt do it either. Now I'm baffled... what else can I check? It was running perfect before all of this... now I get nothing. Help!
If you’re saying that it died on you while running, I’d look at the battery/alternator first.
it’s a new battery... but the crazy part is that happened a few times and then started right back up. I changed the starter just because it was cheaper enough but I never REALLY thought it was that.
Typically, when someone says “No Crank”, that means the starter is not spinning the engine, and of course, then it can’t start.
If it “Cranks, but No Start”, means the starter is spinning the engine but engine won’t start.
And you then said you got a new starter “and that didn’t do it”.
So, does the new starter spin (crank) the engine or not?
When you twist the Ignition Key to the start position, does the starter spin the engine?
If the starter does spin (i.e., crank) the engine, does the tach remain at zero rpm or does it rise to a few hundred rpm while the starter is spinning the engine?
If the engine is shutting down that's one issue, then if the engine doesn't crank that's a second issue. A likely common point between the two circuits is the ignition circuit that runs through the ignition switch.
If you do not understand how the system is supposed to work and make careful and informed observations, you are doomed to waste time and money replacing what are actually good parts in the hope you'll get lucky.
alloro is on the correct track to figure out what might be going on, just do not take his statement to literally mean "replace the ignition switch", he meant to focus on that circuit.
Why? Because both the ongoing operation of the engine as well as restarting the engine requires that particular circuit to remain reliable. Do not get bogged down in secondary symptoms like PATS, fuel pump operation, or even starter engagement unless and until you have verified that all prerequisites have been met.
My best suggestion for an amateur to try at this point is to swap the PCM power relay with an identical relay that is not critical to the starting and running process of the engine. MARK THE RELAYS FIRST!! This relay is a common failure item and is a decent enough 'first guess' to try.
Pull it and bench test it. Autozone and other parts stores can bench test it for you. They do that for free since if you need a starter they'll have one to sell you. You even have your core already. You can do it yourself in the drive but a lot of people don't like ti spinning like it's prone to do in the drive.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.