Hi,

I've always liked the first gen F1's and I found this one just a few hours form me that looks pretty original and straight. My ultimate goal would be to restore the truck back to as close to original as I could.

When it comes to rust spots, location of engine stamps, and other details, I'm much more familiar with Mustangs, but I was hoping some experienced people on this forum might be able to give me a hand. Did these trucks' engine or transmissions come stamped with the VIN or is there even any way to tell if they are original to a specific truck? Also, is there any common problems that I should look out for? I attached a few pictures of the truck and the data plate.

Some work that the seller has done on the truck:
-Rebuilt starter
-Plugs, condensor, etc. replaced
-Brake work
-Had been sitting in a barn since the late 70's but it runs and drives now.

The seller is asking 13,500. Any other tips or suggestions would be welcomed.

Thanks,
Jeffrey

 

Welcome Jeff!

A good serial number decoder can be found at Van Pelt Sales: http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/F...1-52trucks.jpg

There wasn't a practice of 'numbers matching' with this vintage. Smarter folks will be along shortly to confirm.

The truck looks unmolested - always a good thing.

On the rust issue, anywhere the sheet metal design used stiffening pieces (sometimes called doublers) there tended to be a problem. Areas included the front fenders (usually around the seam between the upper and lower parts), the joints between the fenders and running boards, the box to fender joint, and the cab corners. Picture analysis of condition is not an exact science. There looks like a bondo party was held on the front fenders.

Location matters on pricing. Are you in California?

 

I'm looking at checking out the truck this weekend if nothing changes, but yes the car is located in California. Specifically in the Central Valley.

Jeffrey

 

Welcome to the forum! Things do seem a bit more expensive in California, for sure. If you've been following pricing on these trucks for awhile, you'l know better than us if it's a good deal in your neighborhood. It seems a little pricey for some of us. However, overall it does seem to be in good condition. If it runs and drives that's half the battle. I would agree with DW that you'll likely find some hidden body issues under that crummy green paint. He's pointed out the typical trouble areas. Check the floors and cab corners when you inspect it. Make sure the doors open and close reasonably well.

Your data plate decodes to a 1952 F1 with the 215 6 cylinder engine, built in Richmond, CA. So far, that appears to be what you have. As noted, there were no date codes or serial stampings on the engines and transmissions in these years, so there's no way to verify original equipment. Engines were routinely swapped out when they wore out so assume noting is original. There is no added value one way or the other, so don't get too hung up on that. The bottom line on the tag says you have the 3 speed transmission, painted originally Woodsmoke Grey, and built on July 25, 1952.

I hope this helps. Keep us posted on what you find after you look at it, and let us know what you decide or if you have any other questions. Hopefully the seller is open to offers. If you've worked on Mustangs, the same rules apply. Look it over top and bottom, inside and out and look for the obvious. You'll know good from bad. Good luck with your quest.

 

AMEN! Not enough of that going on here IMHO. I've got 3 big trucks that I'm keeping stock as possible and it infuriates me when I am seeking assistance only to get advise along the lines of, "Why are you still running 6V? 12V systems are our Lord and Savior"..Same could be said about other systems - "Why are you running a Flathead that can barely put out 100HP? A SBC have so much more power! Why are you looking for crashbox parts? Put a nice AOD in there and you'll never manually shift again."

Who would do such a thing? The Group 1 6V batteries are readily available from the auto parts stores, tractor supply stores and similar. A well maintained 6V system is just as good as a well maintained 12V system. Generators can be easily rebuilt. I feel that those who boast "performance improvements" with their new 12V systems with new battery, charging apparatuses, new wires etc are comparing to a rundown 6V system that needs a little love after ~70 years. The 6V system would have the same improvements if all the same items were refreshed (and probably for a little less $$$ too)..

Flatheads move the truck just as intended and are awesome engines in their own right. As for the transmission, Double Clutching is part of the enjoyable experience... I need to get off of my rant here - bottom line everyone can do as they please with their trucks, but that doesn't mean I have to appreciate it. I do appreciate those that do keep 'em stock, so welcome aboard!

That is one nice looking truck. The straight six will pose a challenge for some parts, but not insurmountable. You have a great group of people on the forum here who will help ya out with all of that.

 

Hey Jeffery! As a fellow 52 straight 6 owner, I'd like to add my welcome to FTE. You have come to the right place for help and encouragement with your project if you do decide to pull the trigger on that 52 you have your eye on.

Like bmoran4, I like your idea of staying stock. My truck is pretty much the way "Henry" intended it, and I have no regrets. My stock 215 cid straight 6 engine needed to be rebuilt, but now I feel comfortable taking my truck on extended cross-country adventures. Finding parts was never much of an issue. Maintaining 60-65 mph on the interstate isn't a problem either.

Here are some before and after engine pics:








Imagine the possibilities. Good luck to you and keep us posted.

Jim

PS The engine colors shown are pretty close to the stock colors for 52 as far as I was able to determine. You can do a forum search for Truckdog62563--I tried to follow his advice on the colors.