So my 2011 CC cab bushings were shot, 3 of the 8 were non existent. So I ordered up the Energy Suspension set, read all the tutorials, watched the youtube videos etc etc etc and set the day aside. I thought I did everything right, heated the bolts every partial way when they wanted to stop moving, went super super slow with a breaker bar knowing i had the whole day. started at left side rear and worked my way up, super hard but got them all out and went to the right rear. Everything was good to the first two got them out but when it came to number 3...it got 95% out and locked up solid. Could not budge it with all my might. Heating it more hoping to get it to move. Got the idea to try and run it back in then try and back it out again and put some Kroil/blaster on it. Well after some serious effort it worked. It is out...now on to the final front. Did everything the same & thought it was in the bag but damn d up like the other one. Tried to run it back in and it would not move so shot some lube up in there and went at it again and wouldn't you know it ....the nut broke lose. So I took the liner out and was able to access the nut with a ratchet and 22mm socket thru a hole. The bolt will not move wither way even with a guy holding the ratchet against the frame and I trying with all my might on a 1/2 breaker bar ..... it is just starting to make the 6pt socket slip on the head. WTF......

SO I went ahead and installed 7 of the 8 pairs and put it back together for now since it is our only trans and the wife car is in the shop. I had to tilt the cab quite a bit to get the front bushings out...... I am worried I would/did break something tilting the cab that much. I have no idea what is bolted to the frame and what to the cab

My question is....how the holy hell do i get that bolt out and install the last one? Put the ratchet back on and try an impact? I am at a loss....tried to be super super careful and followed all the tings I read. My truck does not even have really any chases rust sent to was a SC/Fla truck so no really salt roads. This bushing system really sucks. The bushings were like powder when they came out....what ones were left

Any help is appreciated.....I cross posted this on Powerstroke,.org also

 

Though this guy installed the S&B body bushing kit, there's a lot of pics. Maybe it'll help.


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...010-cc-kr.html

EDIT: another one

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...hredded-3.html

 

The last one your speaking of, ‘front’ you are referring to rad support? Or firewall?
if it is the rad support mount you may well be looking at pulling the rad and removing the plastic insert. To gain full access to the nut for cutting, or at a minimum heating nut only for easy removal.
its a lot of work....
mid you were able to get a socket with a ratchet onto it, could you also get a small/medium breaker bar onto it? If so then lube it up good and use a high torque impact gun on the bottom. A ratchet on one end and impact on opposite don’t work well together.
I recently did a cab off repair on my 2012 and had similar issue with right front but I already had the rad removed so was quick heat with torch and out it came.
good luck!

 

Yes the farthest forward under radiator mount. I got an impact that does about 500ft in reverse and will try and get the socket in there with a breaker bar on it then hit it. Hope it does not round the head off cuz it is really stuck. I put it together with just the 7 new sets and t rides firm so can prolly leave it for now if it does not come out

I just hope tilting the cab like I had to did not screw anything up..... nowhere did any of the DIY's did it tell me to disconnect anything

 

Did your kit come with new bolts? If it did just cut the old one off with a sawzall or whatever you can get in there.

You might can source a bolt from a junkyard or even a dealer, but I imagine a "new" bolt will require purchasing a bushing as well. If you're having that much trouble with the bolt/nut, there's probably a problem with the threads and re-use could be just as big a pain if not impossible. I would plan on finding another bolt and just cutting that one off.

You can probably get away with a good grade 8 bolt with some blue loctite as a temporary solution, source out a bolt then replace it at a more conveniant time.

 

Make sure you turn the bolt in all the way first.... this cleans out the nut for easier extraction.
and once it start to move don’t stop , keep it going.

do not cut the bolt until your ready to pull the rad. If you cut it the rad has to come out to get the nut and leftover bolt out from the top of rad support/under rad mount.

new bolt only is ~$12.

new bolt has blue lock tight already applied on it. It is applied where the bolts stops when fully seated only. This is the reason for difficult extraction since the area of bolt thread that doesn’t have it rusts and swells causing it to seize up at about 2/3’s the way out.
this is also why going back in to fully seated position helps clean the threads. I’ve had good success with backing it out to the point where it begins to bind, then reseat it, possibly 2-3 times Until it finally comes all the way. And I’m referring to impact use, and using liberal amounts of anti seize spray before each removal attempt.

 

had a few siezed bolts / spinning nut problems . I mig welded the nut plates to the nearest metal thing. the heated nut plate served for easy removal vs heating the bolts which expands the bolt in the nut hole...making it tighter.

 

yes that’s works great too. I’ve never heated the bolts either for the same reason👍

 

I'm about to change all 8 on my 13 and have the Dorman replacements that came with new cage nuts and bolts as well as the steel cups and washers. Hopefully I'll get lucky on this FL truck.....

 

Well we tried the air impact and they didn't budge in or out. Lots of Kroil oil and heat...no move. I only have a 20gal stand up air tank so might not have been enough PSI volume to push the 500ft lb impact to full capacity. I have a couple of shop friends and they use these 1000+ ft lb electric impact. They might let me borrow one next weekend. This bold won't budge. The head is starting to bed beat up so I ground a impact socket flat to get full depth. I really wish I could get it out

 

Just cut the mother f—-er off and be done. If you have to remove the radiator support (I didn’t on my 2010, I think someone mentioned you’d have to on an 11) then just consider it an excuse to do a coolant drain & fill.

 

I had the same issue with a '09 when I pulled the cab off the frame. I couldn't get either radiator support bolts out so I used a portable band saw and cut them. I then knocked the nuts out of the support since they spun in their mounts anyway. It's about the only way you will get them out.

 

Well tried it again, more heat, more penetrate and the Milwaukee M18 electric impact that is supposed to rate at 1400 lb ft and the bolt did not budge in or out. Guess short of taking it somewhere to get it out or just leaving it there I could try a 3/4 in drive breaker bar, 2 more people and a long pipe..... none that i have

 

I just did this exact job on my 2013. One of the front captive nuts by the radiator support spun and I had to go dig for it....I do have a 6.2 truck which doesn't have a CAC in the way and most likely has a smaller radiator but was able to get right to the nut by taking the grill off and pulling that rubber flap out of the way. 22mm socket on a breaker bar with about 12" of extensions and I was able to hit it with the impact from below and it came right out.

Here's what mine looked like:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ab-mounts.html

 

Well I finally got the bolt out....not the way I wanted it to go but it gave up......part of it that is. So the rest stays till I need o take the front end apart for some reason then I will repair it