I’m in the process of installing a CPP disc brake kit on my 49 F1. The truck has the original 239 and a three speed. I have some questions about pedal position and master cylinder push rod adjustment. First, when the clutch pedal is in the full upright position the arm is against the rubber bumper under the floor pan. If I were to position the brake pedal against its bumper the brake pedal would sit about 1 1/2” above the clutch pedal. I don’t see and any evidence that the pedal was altered. Is this typical that they aren’t on the same plane. Is it necessary that they rest on the bumpers? I’m fairly tall so I wouldn’t half mind if I could lower both pedals somewhat and still have enough free play and travel to engage and disengage the clutch and brakes. My next question is regarding the push rod attachment. With the booster mounted to the cross member and frame I don’t have enough adjustment to get the joint attached to the pedal (even with the pedal against the bumper). The way I see it is my options would be to cut down the hex coupler to give myself more adjustability or move the entire booster bracket further toward the rear by making an adapter plate that would sit against the crossmember. My inclination would be to cut the hex down so I don’t have to drill two more holes in the frame if I move the entire booster. Anyone have this issue or see any downside to cutting the hex? Thanks Neil

I need about another inch to get it together. There’s about 3/4” of unused thread on each end of the hex coupler between by fingers.


About and inch and half difference in height

 

My brake pedal was to high and a hassle to apply the brakes. I cut out about an inch to lower it as I did not want to move anything else that might involve re plumbing the brake lines. I still have plenty of stopping room on it.

 

Did you cut and re-weld the arm itself?

 

Yes I measured what I would need to take out to make it comfortable then bottomed out the pedal to make sure I had plenty of pedal left. So far so good. I was just to rough for me to get the leg up.

 

Are you sure you have the correct kit for the year of trucks. Original poster has a 49 ,artscott61 has a 55

 

I’m fairly confident that the kit I got was correct though I realize what applies to a 55 may not apply to mine. I’m guessing the kit is still probably somewhat generic. Unless I get opinions to the contrary I’ll probably cut down the coupler and leave the pedal short of the bumper so they’re relatively even. I suppose I definitely won’t have to worry preloading the master cylinder because the return spring will keep constant tension on the pushrod at its max extended position. As tempting as it would be to cut and re-weld the pedal I rather not do that though I can sympathize with artscott51 regarding getting the knees up as the years pass by.

 

If it were me I would wait until the brakes were done and working before making the choice to how much to cut. That way you have the feel for where they engage and can make a "as it applies to your system" decision.

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On my 55 F-100, I adjusted the pedal using a torch to heat and bend to desired position. Note: I heated it clamped in a vise, then repainted and installed.