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I have the F7/F8 337 ci engine, but with hydraulic lifters AND is in a 1949 Lincoln. I am trying to remove and replace the valves. The Service Manual is very sketchy about how to do it. I have tried pry bars, screw drivers, and even a heavy duty valve spring compressor (albeit NOT the one they show in the book)), but I cannot get the spring up to remove the spring retainer keys....which I am unsure of where they are: all I can see is what looks like the bottom of the valve stem coming UP from the lifter. From there, the spring lower spring retainer, the spring, and the upper spring retainer. I am assuming that the guide stays in...that is it is not removed (?)
Has anyone done this before such that you could give me some hints as to the proper and safe way to do this ? I have attached a picture of what I see at the bottom of the spring.
There is a small spring covering the lifter assembly. I cannot see where the retainer keys are supposed to be. I have indicated where the bottom spring retainer is, and I am unable to pry it loose from the spring....supposedly because I need to remove the retainer keys FIRST.
Thanks. Are the retainer keys supposed to pop out then?
Steve
Not necessarily, in fact not usually. But they will be clear of the retainer, and then you can pick them off the valve stem. You have to lift the retainer and compress the spring evenly or the keepers will hang up on the retainer.
Auto Zone and others usually have "tie rod removers" (pickle forks) that work OK in a pinch, and are loaned out.
Caution; cover all drain holes with rags, and have a magnet on hand those keepers are like Mexican Jumpin
beans !! Those forks most venders sell, do work, but don't count on it over time those guides get stubborn. As
said, only way is compress the retainer and spring you see valve come up then carefully tap valve down remove
keepers then wrestle the spring out remove valve and pound down the guide and guide keeper will come down
with the guide. Use care tapping valves they bend easy. Back to the fork they sell for around $40 or so. They
do shine when the valve is assembled as a unit for installation. Tip; where this fork goes in the recess of the
guide Paint this slot with a white paint pin. That way you can easily see this slot for the fork bar.
This is the style compressor we use works perfectly try Napa.
WHOPS; wrong picture thats for overheads and I can't delete it.
Thank you ALL! Finally got the two keys to drop out. There was so much heavy sludge that actually ONE of them fell out over night! Then this morning the second one came out after some more soaking with lubricant (Gibbs). The next step is to remove the guide, which is also a daunting task right now. I saw one video where the machine shop used an old valve through a long socket into the guide and then took an air hammer to the end of the valve to push it on through. Is that the preferred way? Every other video I have seen only shows someone rapping on just the long socket and it pushes the guide through.
This is the first time I've pulled valves out, and so far, none of the videos online discuss THESE particular kinds of valves, retainers, and keys. I guess I am a visual kind of person...if I see how things are done with a unique situation like mine, I can replicate it fairly quickly. But I would sure hate to do something based on other people's videos on engines that are not the same as this one.
Your guides are not like the 239 flat V8's, they are more like a modern engine. They're a press fit, not retained by the horseshoe clips like on the smaller ones. Before you start hammering, figure out if they need replacing. I believe oversize valve stems and guide reaming are a solution if they are sloppy. I'd make sure you can get parts before you go much further!
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337ci Flathead Valve Replacement
