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I posted this problem under my build thread but it might not get looked if the right person has no interest in my chassis swap so I'll give it a try as it's own thread......
So I think something must have shorted out the fuel gauge as I have no power going to it or to the sending unit. (it was working before I pulled out the dash pad and put on another one) I've done the ground out the sending unit wire test and nothing. Put my tester on the back of the gauge and no power (simple light tester and no flashing light) Traced the wire and tested multiple spots including the fuse panel. All fuses check out good. I have power to the back of the dash and the lights work but the gas gauge is dead. Where does it get it's power from? I've looked at the wiring diagrams and I'm not seeing a supply... I'm I just missing it? wouldn't I still have power at the back of the gauge even if the gauge was bad? I've searched and every dyi I find assumes there is power to the gauge or just says you have a wiring problem... (that's helpful...lol)
I posted this problem under my build thread but it might not get looked if the right person has no interest in my chassis swap so I'll give it a try as it's own thread......
So I think something must have shorted out the fuel gauge as I have no power going to it or to the sending unit. (it was working before I pulled out the dash pad and put on another one) I've done the ground out the sending unit wire test and nothing. Put my tester on the back of the gauge and no power (simple light tester and no flashing light) Traced the wire and tested multiple spots including the fuse panel. All fuses check out good. I have power to the back of the dash and the lights work but the gas gauge is dead. Where does it get it's power from? I've looked at the wiring diagrams and I'm not seeing a supply... I'm I just missing it? wouldn't I still have power at the back of the gauge even if the gauge was bad? I've searched and every dyi I find assumes there is power to the gauge or just says you have a wiring problem... (that's helpful...lol)
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I'm assuming from the "D0TZ" that's visible in the picture that you're dealing with a 1970 or '71 truck.
Your gas gauge gets its power from the Instrument Cluster Constant Voltage Regulator (it's the Black wire with the White stripe in your photo). From there, it goes through the gauge, and is controlled by the sender in the tank. The sender applies a variable ground, which is reflected in the gauge's position. I believe that a dead short at the sender or in the wiring to the sender will appear to be a completely full tank (but it might be the other way around). I believe that if the gauge shows no reading at all, either the ICCVR is dead or the circuit has an open somewhere.
Things to check:
Make sure each tank sender is adequately grounded.
Make sure your Tank Selector switch (if you have one) is in the appropriate position.
Make sure you have continuity from the sender back (through the tank selector switch, if you have one) to the instrument panel connector (Wire # 286, Orange).
Make sure you have continuity from the gauge to the instrument cluster connector
When you start searching for another IVR buy a electronic replacement NDP carries them. But if you do any welding on the truck disconnect the connections on the IVR first! Or buy a spare IVR. -Also disconnect the battery cables before installing a new IVR, they don't handle voltage surges at all.
thanks for the help guys, I forgot about NPD, just spent the last hour or so shopping there and I placed an order for a new IVC. I tried to find one local but the auto part stores all want $55 to $60 for the same ones online for $19 to $29..... oh and they have to order it as well, talk about mark up...lol. I'll be sure to disconnect the battery and let you guys know if the new IVC cures the problem. Probably won't see it for a week.
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and I placed an order for a new IVC. I tried to find one local but the auto part stores all want $55 to $60 for the same ones online for $19 to $29..... oh and they have to order it as well, talk about mark up...lol. I'll be sure to disconnect the battery and let you guys know if the new IVC cures the problem. Probably won't see it for a week. 
