I started putting on a rear leaf spring tonight and I had quite the fight with the shackle bolt locking pins.


I couldn't get them in as deep as I thought they should go.
(See pictures below)


How deep do the locking pins (part 5782) need to go into the main pin (Part 5780)?


If they need to go deeper than shown, I will have to grind the pins down a bit because they simply cant go any deeper into the groove of the pin.


Any advice?


thanx
Kirk

 

You're good. I believe the lock pins are tapered and won't go in all they way. As long as the nut on the other side is threaded all the way on.

Edit...I didn't look at the picture of the nuts closely before I commented. It does look like they the pins should be in a little further.

 

They look like they are in all the way. Like AVF100 said they are tapered as long as the nut is tight then that's it.

 

They should work like the king pin pins (say that 3 times fast) I am getting ready to do that so will follow this.

 

A few of things I learned when I put my springs back on.

-Make sure the Shackle bolt is lined up perfectly so the notch is lined up with the pin hole.

-Make sure the pin goes in the same direction that you took it out. I think the hole is tapered so it will make a difference.

-The pin also has a taper on it, so make sure it hits the area of the Shackle bolt that is notched out.

Not sure if this is the "text book" way, but it worked for me. Good luck!

 

Did anyone have to file their lock pins to get enough depth for the nuts on the other side to be threaded on fully?

My ​​​​​pins with the grooves fit perfectly, but these lock pins don't go in as deep as expected. It doesn't seem to be a matter of alignment. I've had them in an out 20 times, and you can see a perfect contact pattern where the lock pin tapered area contacts the groove in the other pin.

Kirk

 

I have been aligning the three angled taper so it's top is lined up with the top of the semi circle notch on the pin.

 

82Y-5782-A .. Rear Spring Shackle Pin Lock Pin / 3/8" -24 x 1 3/4" long / Obsolete

1948/52 F1/F3 & F3 Parcel Delivery / 1953/56 F100/350 & P350 Parcel Delivery & F700/900 Conventional Cabs.

Pin also used on the clutch pedal to shaft for 1953/56 F100/600.

RPN PARTS in Erie PA has 2 = 888-864-9305.

NOS PARTS LTD in Waxahachie TX has 3 = 972-937-2201.

TOWN & COUNTRY FORD in Minden LA has 7 = 318-377-8694.

AITKEN MOTOR CO. in Aitken MN has 11 = 218-927-2169.

 

If the shackle pins are tight it is hard to get the lock pin sockets aligned perfectly. Make sure that you have no weight on the springs. Make sure that the shackle pin sockets, bushings and pins are perfectly clean including the faces where they meet. Use a generous amount of lube on all. If you still can't get the pins all the way in make sure that you use only a brass pin and/or hammer or you can mushroom the top of the pin. The pin in your first picture looks like it has been mushroomed. But it should be OK as it will hold the pin in place. Just make sure that you check the nuts for looseness after a few test drives over some bumps.

 

That's the part i'm finding so confusing. If my pins were tight and tough to move I could see it being an alignment problem, but I reamed the bushings for an exact fit. They are snug but can move in and out and rotate with only minor pressure.
The locking pin shows a contact pattern on the bevelled face that looks like its lining up against the groove in the shackle pin perfectly.


And you are right about mushrooming the heads, all these pins took some serious blows from a hammer to get them in to the depth you see.


Kirk

 

If this will help ease your mind, here's a couple of pictures of my rear pins and shackles before I replaced mine. These are looking from the rear to the front. Notice that the locking nuts and washers set flush with the end of the threads. Sorry don't have a pic of the protruding pin on the other side

 

The locking pin keeps the pin from working out and from twisting. It really doesn't withstand that much pressure because the pins carry the load. I've taken spring shackles apart that the pin looked almost like something had chewed on it. I wasn't taking it apart because there was something wrong with the pin but because the bushings were wore out. Lock em down and call it a day. OBTW I'm reasonably sure the nuts have lock washers and if your still worried put a drop or to of locktight on the threads.

 

If the heads are mushroomed they will not fit perfectly but BJ is right. Lock 'em down and forget it.

 

Thank You Everyone!


I went out tonight and started fresh on the opposite side and followed all the above advice.


I had a lot more success this time around.


I was extra careful to line up the groove on the pins.
I only used a brass punch to drive the lock pins in.
When I felt they had bottomed out, I continued to drive them in and they went a little further to give me a few more threads on the nut side.


I think yesterday I was mushrooming the lock pins a little from driving them in directly with a hammer. Once they are mushroomed you cant get them to go in further no matter what you do.


As you guys mentioned above, I do have enough threads so it will be fine. I'll put a little dab of locktite on as insurance.


For anyone else looking for advice on replacing these.


1. Ensure you have properly reamed your spring bushings so the pin just fits snugly. You don't want to have a pin that is too tight.
2. Start with the rear hanger. Lube up your main pin and put it in place. Align the groove on the main pin with the lock pin hole.
3. Apply chassis grease to the lock pin and insert it, so the bevel on the lock pin will line up with the groove on the main pin.
4. Drive the lock pin into place using a brass bunch. It needs to go deep enough so you have adequate threads available on the other side for the lock washer and nut to be fully threaded on.
5. Do the front bushing next and hang the front of the spring.
6. Do the back of the spring next and put it on the hanger.


Kirk

 

a couple more pics