1948 Ford F1 Clutch Pedal Assembly??
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From: Yakima, WA
1948 Ford F1 Clutch Pedal Assembly??
I took 1000 pics and forgot to get one at a specific angle. Now some questions.
1. Does the dog eared clutch mount below or above the frame rail?
2. The washer underneath the ball looks very worn. Does that ball unscrew, pop off, or does a new washer slide over the top of it?
3. I opened the shaft, cleaned the parts. Is that bushing circled in green supposed to be in 2 parts?
as always thanks for the help FTE board.
1. Does the dog eared clutch mount below or above the frame rail?
2. The washer underneath the ball looks very worn. Does that ball unscrew, pop off, or does a new washer slide over the top of it?
3. I opened the shaft, cleaned the parts. Is that bushing circled in green supposed to be in 2 parts?
as always thanks for the help FTE board.
More Turbo
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From: BC, Canada
...Terry
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From: Yakima, WA
I'll try to make this the last question...on this topic anyways. The washer that is toast, does that just need to slip over the ball and be enough to seal the end of the shaft? Does it do anything more than to prevent dust? does it need to push in the shaft with a snug seal, or does it need to seal the end? Anybody know of a seal size dimension?
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Fleet Owner
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From: NM
It just keeps grease in and dust out. Not a critical seal so long as you keep up with greasing it. Not a tight fit like (say) a wheel bearing seal. Your seal is clearly worn but I wouldn't say it's useless. You could easily wait until you need to order some other parts and replace it then.
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well I have nothing but time, just wondering if it is something I can find local to make it work. I assume it has to be more of a "sturdy rigid" seal to hold the brass bushings in. The old one was old and cracked so not sure what type of seal it even was
5th Wheeling
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From: Cincinnati
For anyone looking to do this, LMC sells part# 40-0748 that is the rubber washer in question EXCEPT the thickness is about 2MM too thick and restricts your ability to put the bushing on properly.
It was too stiff to get over the ball so I heated it in the oven to 170 degrees (leaving it in the sun didn't work). I held the assembly in a vice and it went on with two hands and a fair amount of elbow grease. Once in place I saw it flared out at the bushing side of the ring and indeed bound the bushing. It was a good diameter but too thick.
I sliced off approximately 2MM on the bushing side with a razor blade holding the assembly in the vise. I wanted to leave the outside toward the frame in factory finish for a decent seal. I also used the the split copper bushing my FIL had in the parts bin with the assembly. The bushing from LMC is plastic and not well finished on the inside.
Steve
It was too stiff to get over the ball so I heated it in the oven to 170 degrees (leaving it in the sun didn't work). I held the assembly in a vice and it went on with two hands and a fair amount of elbow grease. Once in place I saw it flared out at the bushing side of the ring and indeed bound the bushing. It was a good diameter but too thick.
I sliced off approximately 2MM on the bushing side with a razor blade holding the assembly in the vise. I wanted to leave the outside toward the frame in factory finish for a decent seal. I also used the the split copper bushing my FIL had in the parts bin with the assembly. The bushing from LMC is plastic and not well finished on the inside.
Steve
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