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Old Jan 6, 2017 | 12:48 PM
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Good purchase or not?

I am looking at getting the drivetrain from this truck, it has a flathead v8, trans, an 2-speed rear end. The owner is keeping the sheetmetal from it. He said the flathead ran when it was parked, and that all I would need to do is change the oil, unstick the valves, and get new gaskets and it should fire right up. Would that possibly be true or not. And if so what type and how much oil would be used in the change? I am used to diesels and 385 series motors, so any help is appreciated.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2017 | 03:11 PM
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Also what would the weight of the drivetrain be, axles, engine, trans? I am looking at getting a u-haul but want to get on strong enough to hold the truck. I'd guess it would probably be around 5000 lbs.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2017 | 03:37 PM
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Is the engine stuck?

You will almost certainly have to clean or replace then gap the points. Might as well put in new plugs too.

5 quarts of 30 weight or since you are in Michigan in the winter, 10-40. Also get a supply of Marvel Mystery oil for any sticky valves and pistons.

5000 pounds should cover it.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2017 | 06:16 PM
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He didn't say it was stuck, it rolled over by hand but just from sitting probably had a little water in the oil. It's only 300 bucks so it won't break the bank if it doesn't run
 
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Old Jan 7, 2017 | 10:57 AM
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Sounds like a 'yes' to me. Too bad you can't have the whole thing! Is that a script bed? An engine in a bare chassis is really nice to work on, and we'll be here to answer questions and watch the start-up video. First thing of all is to pour lots of marvel mystery oil or atf/acetone mix down the plug holes. Be careful tapping any stuck valves as they bend quite easily and you can't get a direct hit. Oh and maybe you don't want any acetone in there when you fire it up.....
 
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Old Jan 7, 2017 | 02:02 PM
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Yeah, but I have this cab that I want to put on it, been it a sink hole for 50+ years. I was talking with my buddy who deals with old tractors and such that even if I can't get it running I can get my money back for the other parts, so it's going to be a go. The only question is how wide would it be? Uhaul has a limit on how wide before needing a different trailer, I've been told that it will be under 5000 lbs for towing. Also can anybody tell the year of the cab by looking at it, I know it's '47 and older
 
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Old Jan 7, 2017 | 04:33 PM
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'37 Cab, You could put the truck on a trailer but U-haul wouldn't let you. The top of the frame on a '37 is not flat like a '46.



 
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Old Jan 7, 2017 | 04:57 PM
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I called them and as long as it wasn't more than 5000 lbs and 75" wide then it would work with their trailer, if I recall the older trucks were actually narrower then the truck of today, even the heavier duty ones
 
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Old Jan 7, 2017 | 05:25 PM
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Ok, it sounds like you are good to go. Did u-haul have a requirement for the tow vehicle? I think that is what I am remembering, sorry. Putting that cab on the newer frame sounds like a difficult undertaking. Most people couldn't put this together even if they had the right parts. Quit while you are ahead.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2017 | 05:35 PM
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By the sounds of it I'll probably be sticking it on hockey pucksor get good with the welder. And as for the tow vehicle I have access to a couple power strokes and an idi if they get picky but they usually allow me to use the v8 half ton
 
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Old Jan 7, 2017 | 07:15 PM
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The '37 frame would have been about 38" wide, '40 and later are SAE standard 34".
Mark
 
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Old Jan 8, 2017 | 02:06 AM
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Those U-hauls are pretty short. I hope you can get it on far enough to have tongue weight. You might have the seller pull the outside duals before you get there just in case they won't clear something on the trailer and you can throw them under the front to move the weight bias forward.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2017 | 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by willowbilly3
Those U-hauls are pretty short. I hope you can get it on far enough to have tongue weight. You might have the seller pull the outside duals before you get there just in case they won't clear something on the trailer and you can throw them under the front to move the weight bias forward.

My deck is 16' and it's always a problem with a long wheelbase 1 1/2 ton. We almost always pull the duals like WB said.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2017 | 10:42 AM
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Towed several different '40 ton and a half trucks without beds on a 16' car hauler. They fit but had to take the outside duals off. Towed a flat bed dump on a 16' rental trailer and couldn't get it far enough forward to off set the weight of the steel dump bed. Did a 180 on the I-10 freeway outside of LA. Ended up on the shoulder facing the wrong way. Cleaned out my pants and drove off the freeway the wrong way. Had to drive surface streets the rest of the 50 miles home at 35 miles an hour max. Talk about an E ticket ride.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2017 | 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 51504BAT
Towed several different '40 ton and a half trucks without beds on a 16' car hauler. They fit but had to take the outside duals off. Towed a flat bed dump on a 16' rental trailer and couldn't get it far enough forward to off set the weight of the steel dump bed. Did a 180 on the I-10 freeway outside of LA. Ended up on the shoulder facing the wrong way. Cleaned out my pants and drove off the freeway the wrong way. Had to drive surface streets the rest of the 50 miles home at 35 miles an hour max. Talk about an E ticket ride.
What tow vehicle did you use during this adventure? Sounds like your right foot on the accelerator might have been quivering a lot for the remainder of the trip.
 
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