65 M5ODR2transmission swap
Thanks
Thanks
I installed an M5R2 behind a 1978 Ford 300 I-6 in my 1966 Ford F100. I used a flywheel from a 1990 Ford F150 and it bolted up to the crankshaft without any issues. From the flywheel back, including the starter motor, I used all 1990-1992 Ford parts. I do not believe you will have any mate-up issues with the 240, but my experience has been with an engine that is 10 years newer. I'm not sure if the 240 will have enough guts in 5th gear to work well, but you don't know until you try.
My restoration project got sidetracked the past summer with kids stuff and work stuff, but here are some of the challenges I have encountered:
1. I am installing factory cast iron split exhaust manifolds connected to a 2-to-1 exhaust pipe. I am having some complications with getting the exhaust pipe above the tranny tail support and not too close to cook the tranny. Nothing I can't fix, it's just not fixed yet...
2. The M5R2 seems to get a lot of negative press from Ford enthusiasts. This truck that I am building is intended to be a driver and not an off road crawler or heavy work truck, so I'm not too worried. Ford used this tranny for a long time and parts are readily available. I did upgrade the rubber plugs on the shifter cover to steel plugs, and also changed the shifter rod bushing/seal and rear output shaft seal. So far, so good.
3. My truck was originally a 3-on-the tree with a solid "low hump" floor pan. I don't believe the M5R2 will fit without cutting the floor pan. I cut out the floor pan and installed the factory 1966 4-speed hump cover. The hole for the shifter ends up in a different spot than a 1066 4-speed, but the new spot and placement of the M5R2 shifter fits perfect and looks like a factory installation. I also like the fact that I can easily remove the floor pan to do maintenance on the top side of the M5R2 if I will ever need to.
4. The clutch linkage with the hydraulic cylinder is a pain. I used parts from another '66 clutch linkage and extended the horizontal shaft under the dash about 8 inches. It seems to work, but until it's running and driving, I m unable to confirm.
5. The driveshaft modifications were a bit expensive. I decided to stick with the factory center carrier bearing and two-piece drive shaft. My reasoning is because I wanted to keep the driveshaft geometry straight out of the tail of the M5R2 and maybe get some better ground clearance. Also, it appears more factory original this way. From the carrier bearing forward, I used a shortened 1990-92 Ford driveshaft. From the center carrier bearing rearward, I used the factory 1966 Ford driveshaft. The cost to shorten, weld, balance, etc. with new U-joints was around $250.00.
Good luck with your project. If you have any questions, please PM me.
Thank You
Dan M., aka mercmeister




