so i was told these 2 are my best bets. in the morning and night, when it's cooler outside before the sun is out (florida...100+ most days) the a/c is fine, it will freeze you out of the truck! when the sun comes out and it's miserably hot outside, it fluctuates. more so at idle too.

7.3L fan: Bullet Proof Diesel Fan Clutch Adapter, 6.0L to 7.3L Ford Diesel

a/c control valve: http://www.dieselsite.com/maxacassis...200373l-1.aspx

as far as i understand, the stock 6.0 fan is controlled by the computer and goes on when it feels it needs to, and the 7.3 is manual and runs all the time, reducing temps for multiple things, a/c included per claims of people that have done this? is that the adapter i need, then just need the fan/clutch? where should i buy a new fan from, OEM 1997 powerstroke i would assume is the best too, right? that's a turbo diesel right, not the IDI diesel?

then i just saw that ac control valve thing someone on facebook suggested. a/c is not an option in my area, it's downright a necessity lol. so i'm looking for anything to help get the a/c to stay ice cold as much as possible like it is during the cooler parts of the day. I always use "max a/c" if it matters.

thanks!

edit: now i'm reading some trucks came stock with the valve i linked above? not sure if mine has it or not.

 

Your truck should have the valve already. It is on the hose going into the firewall. It would be a good idea to clean out the a/c condenser then have the levels checked in the system if you feel it's not working up to par. But it takes a while to cool down the cab after it has been sitting in the sun. It would have been nice if they put a couple vents in the back too help out but. Is yours blowing warm at idle. Your fan should speed up some when keeling with the a/c on if I remember right you have anything to watch fan speed. The 6.0 fan is actually pretty smart.

 

I have the 7.3l fan clutch in my truck and LOVE it!! I got the BPD adapter from BPD and a Hayden 1997 7.3l fan clutch from Rock auto.

AC is colder especially at idle in traffic and the engine runs cooler all the time now. I'm in the desert of SoCal...

 

If i remember correctly, the 6.0 fan is pulse width modulated on the electrical side so it can run anywhere between full on and basically freewheeling. So while it may not kick on like the mechanical ones at idle and make a bunch of noise, the duty cycle on the fan should be higher with ac on.

How are the system pressures and is the evaporator clear? Air flow and therefore cooling capacity is greatly diminished if evaporator or condensor aee plugged with debris (on the air side, not refrig).

 

air blows fine and like i said anytime it's cool out, driving or idle, the air is ice ice cold. only happens with it's scorching hot out

 

is this the same thing as the valve i linked in the first post?

 

Looks to be it!

It is possible that the valve has become defective over time - I believe you can pick up a new one from Ford for the 6.0Ls.

 

cool i will check it out, going to call ford and see how much it is. wonder if there's a way to test it? i do know when i was installing my exhaust, as i was installing the downpipe, i knocked that gray hose off and for a day or 2 i heard the vacuum system constantly running, and someone on here helped me figure it out and when i plugged it back in, the vacuum system started working properly again. i'm curious if this goes bad, if the vacuum system will make that noise again like it did when it was unplugged, not sure.

but yea, guess i don't need to buy that aftermarket one if i have it. i am however going to look into and do that 7.3 fan mod and see how that helps!

 

Have you recharged your A/C or have it checked?

 

no i am going to go have it checked today at a shop just to see. the fact that it works fine whenever it's cooler out tells me it probably doesn't need recharging, but i may be wrong, i'm not an expert on how that stuff works lol. i just assumed if it needed recharging/etc then it wouldn't cool completely all the time, rather than just when it's hot.

 

I noticed mine is not getting as cold this year which leads to believe it needs recharged.

I never took thermodynamics, and I am no expert in the matter. I do know that a system that needs recharged will not lower the temperature as much as a fully working system. That being said, if you A/C system can drop the air temp by 20 degrees from inlet to outlet temperature, the warmer it gets outside the less effective the A/C will be. At 80 deg. inlet, you'll get 60 deg A/C... but at 100 you'll only get 80. So it will only be effective at cooler temperatures, mainly when you don't need it.

 

Im gonna look into insulating the lines also, i just found a thread on that, im sure it helps out too.

 

[QUOTE=ufvj217;16422999]wonder if there's a way to test it?

Start truck up from ambient. Use hands to feel both sides of the hoses. With AC on the closed side should stay cool for many minutes as everything else warms up. If both sides heat up at the same rate the valve isnt closing when signaled to do so(AC on temp to max cold).
Or disconnect coolant lines remove valve and manually apply vacuum to it to see if it actuates open and closed.
Or disconnect, install a bypass tube, run truck and actuate the AC to see if it actuates the valve.
Can you see these valves moving in-situ? Reason I ask is; I havent had to do one but the picture shown looks to have a dash-pot actuated lever below the Philips screw. Maybe you dont need to do anything but visually look to see if its positioned closed with AC on (temp setting to max cold) then see if it moves opposite with AC off or temp to max heat???
The other possibility is the blend door actuator is shot or the blend door isnt shutting completely due to a bad seal or debris.
With the system under full charge you should see at min 25* Delta T with a properly working AC sys. Some vehicles will do 30 even 40* Delta Ts in favorable ambient conditions.
This system should work as designed without insulating anything.

 

is this the item from rockauto you got?

More Information for HAYDEN 2835

 

Here's another thought. I don't know just how dusty it gets out there in Florida where you are BUT - if the high side is a lot higher than it should be the evaporator might be packed with dirt. I purchased my 06 used from a farmer - it got to the point the A/C wasn't cooling as well as it should - here in the California Valley we do hit triple digits quite often - The PO had the A/C checked - turns out the Evaporator fins were completely plugged with dirt. He had the evaporator replaced and the truck still blows ice cold for me years afterwards. The PO told me about this just in case it happens again as it took a while to pinpoint the problem. Just a thought.