P1444 Code Updated
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P1444 Code Updated
So I had a post up saying "is MIL P1444 a urgent fix" and I got "no". On an other website though it said that it was an urgent fix. They said it was "similar to running a bad catalytic converter. you dont want to do it."
P1444:
Possible causes
- Faulty Purge Flow Sensor
- Purge Flow Sensor harness is open or shorted
- Purge Flow Sensor circuit poor electrical connection
So I located the purge flow sensor and look at the tube that connects to that,the canp solenoid, and the carbon canister. Nothing looks bad, but I did notice that the tube that connects to the carbon canister to the solenoid is not connected. The part that connects to the carbon canister dry rotted off. So I turned on my car to see if anything was coming out of that tube or air and there was nothing (not sure if thats good or bad). Also a week ago when I filled up my gas tank (before the check engine light was on) alot of fumes were coming out of the tank while pumping.
The scanner i use also lists the secondary air system, the EVAP system, Heated catalyst, and the AC refrigenant has red X's, but they wernt countiunous.
^are any of these important?
Thanks
P1444:
Possible causes
- Faulty Purge Flow Sensor
- Purge Flow Sensor harness is open or shorted
- Purge Flow Sensor circuit poor electrical connection
So I located the purge flow sensor and look at the tube that connects to that,the canp solenoid, and the carbon canister. Nothing looks bad, but I did notice that the tube that connects to the carbon canister to the solenoid is not connected. The part that connects to the carbon canister dry rotted off. So I turned on my car to see if anything was coming out of that tube or air and there was nothing (not sure if thats good or bad). Also a week ago when I filled up my gas tank (before the check engine light was on) alot of fumes were coming out of the tank while pumping.
The scanner i use also lists the secondary air system, the EVAP system, Heated catalyst, and the AC refrigenant has red X's, but they wernt countiunous.
^are any of these important?
Thanks
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From: SW Va
Well I guess what your & my definition of "urgent" is might differ, but the code is something you shouldn't ignore. Since you found the loose/dry rotted hose, replace it without delay as its job is to route the highly combustible gas fumes to the charcoal canister for safe storage & so the engine can use them to help quicken cold starts & for safety. Having that hose loose is like having an unfiltered vacuum leak, so its messing with your fuel trim, another reason to fix the problem without delay.
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Well I guess what your & my definition of "urgent" is might differ, but the code is something you shouldn't ignore. Since you found the loose/dry rotted hose, replace it without delay as its job is to route the highly combustible gas fumes to the charcoal canister for safe storage & so the engine can use them to help quicken cold starts & for safety. Having that hose loose is like having an unfiltered vacuum leak, so its messing with your fuel trim, another reason to fix the problem without delay.
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From: SW Va
Ok good idea to connect the loose line with a zip tie, that takes some of the "urgency" out of the situation. I'd think you'd maybe feel some vacuum on the line right after a cold start, when the computer has the purge valve to the charcoal vapor storage canister open & applying intake manifold vacuum to suck stored gas fumes out of the canister to make the cold start easier & quicker. As it sucks the fumes out of the canister, it would also apply a slight vacuum on the fuel tank to pull the fumes out & into the charcoal canister.
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Ok good idea to connect the loose line with a zip tie, that takes some of the "urgency" out of the situation. I'd think you'd maybe feel some vacuum on the line right after a cold start, when the computer has the purge valve to the charcoal vapor storage canister open & apply intake manifold vacuum to suck stored gas fumes out of the canister to make the cold start easier & quicker. As it sucks the fumes out of the canister, it would also apply a slight vacuum on the fuel tank to pull the fumes out & into the charcoal canister.
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From: SW Va
So I am about to order a new Purge Flow Sensor. I checked all the wiring and it seems fine. You think I should change it out myself (the sensor)? And Ill repair the hoses too when Im there. Ill be keeping the same solenoid and cabon canister. This doesnt look like a hard fix, I got little experience working on trucks but i will love to learn.
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thanks
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From: SW Va
Clearing the code won't damage anything, its just a message the computer sends when it detects a problem with something its monitoring. If reattaching the hose has fixed the problem/it may have, as a loose hose will cause a loss of pressure that the sensor is looking for, so if all is now well, the code may not reset, Unless you had more than one problem causing that code. Not clearing the code may take several drive cycles for the computer to realize a repair has been made & clear the code itself, if replacing the hose was the only problem. So after a repair we're to clear the code, so the computer knows a repair has been made. Clearing the code & monitoring things just speeds up your trouble shoot.
If the hoses condition/dry rot, are in bad shape in other areas of the hose run, replace them soon so that problem doesn't return.
If the hoses condition/dry rot, are in bad shape in other areas of the hose run, replace them soon so that problem doesn't return.
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Thread Starter
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Clearing the code won't damage anything, its just a message the computer sends when it detects a problem with something its monitoring. If reattaching the hose has fixed the problem/it may have, as a loose hose will cause a loss of pressure that the sensor is looking for, so if all is now well, the code may not reset, Unless you had more than one problem causing that code. Not clearing the code may take several drive cycles for the computer to realize a repair has been made & clear the code itself, if replacing the hose was the only problem. So after a repair we're to clear the code, so the computer knows a repair has been made. Clearing the code & monitoring things just speeds up your trouble shoot.
If the hoses condition/dry rot, are in bad shape in other areas of the hose run, replace them soon so that problem doesn't return.
If the hoses condition/dry rot, are in bad shape in other areas of the hose run, replace them soon so that problem doesn't return.
Any advice before I jump in?
Thanks and wish me luck
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From: SW Va
I'd disconnect the battery, as you don't want any sparks around the fumes while working the vapor recovery system, so no smoking. I'd also have a fire extinguisher close at hand, perform the work in an open area so fumes don't build up in the work area & loosen, but not remove the gas cap to release tank pressure. Just remember to re-tighten the gas cap after the repairs are made. Having the tank full also makes fewer fumes. Keep in mind that Gas fumes are heavier than air, so will travel across a floor to any nearby ignition point & that could be an electric motor, gas or oil furnace or water heater, hot shop work light, someone else close by smoking, ect. So be mindful of the nature of what your working with.
I'm not familiar with how your model is plumbed, so maybe other members who are & reading this will chime in with some helpful tips. Be careful & forethoughtful, think through each move Before you make it!!!!
BTW, seeing as how you've ordered new parts, did you test & find some bad ones, or are you just tossing some new parts at the problem & hoping for joy????
Let us know how it goes.
I'm not familiar with how your model is plumbed, so maybe other members who are & reading this will chime in with some helpful tips. Be careful & forethoughtful, think through each move Before you make it!!!!
BTW, seeing as how you've ordered new parts, did you test & find some bad ones, or are you just tossing some new parts at the problem & hoping for joy????
Let us know how it goes.
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I'd disconnect the battery, as you don't want any sparks around the fumes while working the vapor recovery system, so no smoking. I'd also have a fire extinguisher close at hand, perform the work in an open area so fumes don't build up in the work area & loosen, but not remove the gas cap to release tank pressure. Just remember to re-tighten the gas cap after the repairs are made. Having the tank full also makes fewer fumes. Keep in mind that Gas fumes are heavier than air, so will travel across a floor to any nearby ignition point & that could be an electric motor, gas or oil furnace or water heater, hot shop work light, someone else close by smoking, ect. So be mindful of the nature of what your working with.
I'm not familiar with how your model is plumbed, so maybe other members who are & reading this will chime in with some helpful tips. Be careful & forethoughtful, think through each move Before you make it!!!!
BTW, seeing as how you've ordered new parts, did you test & find some bad ones, or are you just tossing some new parts at the problem & hoping for joy????
Let us know how it goes.
I'm not familiar with how your model is plumbed, so maybe other members who are & reading this will chime in with some helpful tips. Be careful & forethoughtful, think through each move Before you make it!!!!
BTW, seeing as how you've ordered new parts, did you test & find some bad ones, or are you just tossing some new parts at the problem & hoping for joy????
Let us know how it goes.
I have a 1995 Ford Ranger XLT v6 4.0
Thread Starter
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I'd disconnect the battery, as you don't want any sparks around the fumes while working the vapor recovery system, so no smoking. I'd also have a fire extinguisher close at hand, perform the work in an open area so fumes don't build up in the work area & loosen, but not remove the gas cap to release tank pressure. Just remember to re-tighten the gas cap after the repairs are made. Having the tank full also makes fewer fumes. Keep in mind that Gas fumes are heavier than air, so will travel across a floor to any nearby ignition point & that could be an electric motor, gas or oil furnace or water heater, hot shop work light, someone else close by smoking, ect. So be mindful of the nature of what your working with.
I'm not familiar with how your model is plumbed, so maybe other members who are & reading this will chime in with some helpful tips. Be careful & forethoughtful, think through each move Before you make it!!!!
BTW, seeing as how you've ordered new parts, did you test & find some bad ones, or are you just tossing some new parts at the problem & hoping for joy????
Let us know how it goes.
I'm not familiar with how your model is plumbed, so maybe other members who are & reading this will chime in with some helpful tips. Be careful & forethoughtful, think through each move Before you make it!!!!
BTW, seeing as how you've ordered new parts, did you test & find some bad ones, or are you just tossing some new parts at the problem & hoping for joy????
Let us know how it goes.
Ok fixed it to get another code haha. Now im getting p1445, Purge Flow Sensor Circuit High Conditions... My last code which was p1444 was purge flow sensor circuit low conditions. What now. My RPMs are high than before the repair. Before hand i was getting like 650 RPMs during idle now im getting 1000 RPMS and you can hear a difference.
Thread Starter
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I'd disconnect the battery, as you don't want any sparks around the fumes while working the vapor recovery system, so no smoking. I'd also have a fire extinguisher close at hand, perform the work in an open area so fumes don't build up in the work area & loosen, but not remove the gas cap to release tank pressure. Just remember to re-tighten the gas cap after the repairs are made. Having the tank full also makes fewer fumes. Keep in mind that Gas fumes are heavier than air, so will travel across a floor to any nearby ignition point & that could be an electric motor, gas or oil furnace or water heater, hot shop work light, someone else close by smoking, ect. So be mindful of the nature of what your working with.
I'm not familiar with how your model is plumbed, so maybe other members who are & reading this will chime in with some helpful tips. Be careful & forethoughtful, think through each move Before you make it!!!!
BTW, seeing as how you've ordered new parts, did you test & find some bad ones, or are you just tossing some new parts at the problem & hoping for joy????
Let us know how it goes.
I'm not familiar with how your model is plumbed, so maybe other members who are & reading this will chime in with some helpful tips. Be careful & forethoughtful, think through each move Before you make it!!!!
BTW, seeing as how you've ordered new parts, did you test & find some bad ones, or are you just tossing some new parts at the problem & hoping for joy????
Let us know how it goes.
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
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From: SW Va
Have you read through this thread https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...ml#post1343333 & performed the checks Ken00 posted????