The machine shop should have heads done next week with new castings because of cracks in old ones. I have a few questions before installing.
202,000 miles 4.0 ranger ohv


1. GASKET ASSEMBLY:
After head gaskets and heads are torqued to 44lbs book says to put the silicone that comes with the kit on the four corners where the heads and lower intake manifold meet, put the intake manifold gasket on and again put the silicone on. How far do you spread it up the head or between the heads?
The gasket kit said all the way between the heads and didn't mention putting it on under and over the gasket.

2..HOW TO CLEAN: (what to soak them in? or?)
The inside of the exhaust manifolds

The inside of the upper Intake manifold

The inside of the lower intake manifold

The inside of the fuel manifold

2. EXHAUST MANIFOLDS: Can I use anti seize compound on the exhaust manifold to heads bolts.
They only get torqued to 19 lbs so concerned they might rattle loose with the compound, but they were so rusted when I took them off one broke.

The Felpro gasket set comes with exh manifold gaskets and when I took the manifolds off they had not gaskets. Do you use the gaskets?
Should I replace those bolts, I need at least 2. Can I just get any bolts the same size and thread?

Can I use anti seize compond on the exhaust manifold to exhaust bolts.
Should I replace those?

Any other tips for assembly are appreciated.

 

Double check the torque on the head bolts. My '95 4.0 Aerostar had torque-to-yield bolts: you torque in 2 steps (X torque in step 1, Y torque in step 2) per the pattern, then tighten XX degrees of rotation beyond that.

The intake should require silicone in the corners where the head/block/manifold meet. When it's time to put on the valve covers on, you need some more silicone at the seam where the intake meets the head. The intake gasket for my '98 Explorer also required silicone on the front and back of the intake/block joint.

I used gaskets made by Fel Pro. I don't know what you have. There are two different sets/designs from Fel Pro. The instructions are different based on design.

I didnt' worry about the inside of the exhaust manifolds.

For the intake (upper and lower) on my Aerostar, I had the machine shop clean. On my Honda, I just used carb cleaner. It's a trade of money vs. time.

Fuel manifold? Do you mean fuel rail? I didn't do anything for the fuel rail. It should be protected by the filter.


I used anti-seize on the exhaust bolts/nuts at the head and where the exhaust manifold connected to the exhaust. Regarding exhaust manifold gaskets, I had the machine shop grind/machine the exhaust manifold so that they were flat and skipped the gaskets. Used manifolds probably won't be flat. Up to you. I would use the gaskets if you don't have the exhaust manifolds machined.

 

Coolant in the oil pan is bad for the used bearings still in your engine,
Ensure that all traces have been removed from crankcase before starting.