So I recently bought a 2007 F150, XLT Full-Cab, 4.6 V8 (First Ford btw) and I have had some trouble with the reverse and shifting into and out of 2nd gear.

I put a bigger set of tires and rims on it, they are 32" in all, the problem with the reverse was before but I didn't notice the shifting problem.

When I put the truck in reverse and push on the gas immediately the engine revs to about 4000 rpms and takes a few seconds to engage, if I don't press on the gas and let the transmission engage it takes less time and is not as violent of a shift into reverse.

The shift from 2nd to 3rd is harsh, it revs up to around 3500 rpms and then violently shifts.

I would rather not replace the entire transmission if I don't have to, but if I do, I mine as well upgrade, what after market transmission would you suggest?

 

Hi , seeing as how you're talking about a $3000 transmission , I think I would get it diagnosed by a reputable shop ,...

 

check the atf level and color. top up if low. test drive.

if the fluid is black and smelling burnt then the clutches are burning out and you must not change the fluid.

sometimes varnish and gum deposits are left behind by atf that is not changed regularly.

seafoam transtune cleans these out without affecting the seals. lucas will soften ALL seals and later result in catastrophic failure.

try this out at your own risk.

machine flushing the transmission may break loose debris and dirt and cause other valves and pistons to jam resulting is complete stoppage of the transmission.

replacing the filter alone will rule out that the filter is clogged.

so be prepared for complete failure if you do this.

on the other hand if you are financially and practically prepared to replace the transmission: what if it works?

inquire about monster transmissions. jasper transmissions are well reputed. some re-manufacturers upgrade the transmissions to increase life and fix defects in the valve body etc.

if you get a new transmission, i would drain and fill every 15k, and machine flush and replace the filter every 30k.

also consider fitting a Derale or other brand SPIN-ON bypass filter which MUST be changed every year or 10K. the filter you use MUST have a built in bypass valve. top up lost fluid.

do NOT use the inline filters as the ones available or cheap chinese imitations of the australian magnefine filters and crack, leak and some come with glued shut bypass valves.

wish the simple steps work.

i have a similar problem and i am going to order a rebuilt valve body from central valve body and fit it myself.

just my .02. i am not an expert and this is only my opinion.