Metal Finish Question
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 316
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From: Ridgefield, Washington
Metal Finish Question
I removed all the paint and rust from Floyd's valve covers getting them ready to powder coat.
The wire brush on the drill left the covers with a really cool shiny/etchy aluminum looking finish which looks really good on the engine.
What, if anything, can be done to keep that look and prevent them from rusting?
The wire brush on the drill left the covers with a really cool shiny/etchy aluminum looking finish which looks really good on the engine.
What, if anything, can be done to keep that look and prevent them from rusting?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 751
Likes: 1
From: orange county, ca.
Engine paint clear coat. I used it on my cal customs and old edelbrock intake, it dulled them a little.
Before Clear coat, straight out of the blast cabinet (fine glass beads):
After spray can engine clear coat:
Before Clear coat, straight out of the blast cabinet (fine glass beads):
After spray can engine clear coat:
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,170
Likes: 2
From: Rimrock AZ
I used Eastwood's Diamond clear on my 56 intake. Still looks the same 2 years and 6000 miles later. Friend who painted it for me said the only problem he had was he could not tell what he had already sprayed. I can't tell there is anything on the intake. Thermostat housing was not sprayed and was old when installed so that's why the difference in color
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
If you want to powder coat, use clear powdercoat, or use silver powdercoat and steel wool after. There are a lot of interesting powdercoat finishes.
These people have 6500 colors including many textural finishes: http://www.prismaticpowders.com/powder-coating-colors/
These people have 6500 colors including many textural finishes: http://www.prismaticpowders.com/powder-coating-colors/
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,094
Likes: 654
From: Brentwood, TN
Hey Ross, have you any experience with this Nyalic? This is a new product to me so I did some research on it...they caution against using any chemicals around it including degreasers. Most of the stuff I look for, such as Glisten PC, is very durable.
To the OP, you may want to check out GLISTEN PC, might be overkil but it works great on any metal including rock chips on wheels.
To the OP, you may want to check out GLISTEN PC, might be overkil but it works great on any metal including rock chips on wheels.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,297
Likes: 1,059
From: NM
Not sure which product you saw that on, Charlie. I don't have personal experience but Mike Bishop and other trustworthy sources use it. I don't have a lot of shiny on my engine!
From Nyalic's auto page:
"Nyalic is effective for environments exposed to acids, salts,urea, fly ash, mag chloride, lime, water, snow, ice, and sea air.
"Solvent-based chemicals can damage
Nyalic-coated surfaces. Avoid using
solvent-based cleaning solutions.
Damaged surfaces can be repaired with
Nyalic aerosol can."
Not clear if solvent-based cleaners includes Gunk-type cleaners with kerosene? I could believe something more aggressive would damage just about any coating. But from what I've heard, strong solvents/cleaners aren't needed on Nyalic-coated parts, they just wipe clean.
From Nyalic's auto page:
"Nyalic is effective for environments exposed to acids, salts,urea, fly ash, mag chloride, lime, water, snow, ice, and sea air.
"Solvent-based chemicals can damage
Nyalic-coated surfaces. Avoid using
solvent-based cleaning solutions.
Damaged surfaces can be repaired with
Nyalic aerosol can."
Not clear if solvent-based cleaners includes Gunk-type cleaners with kerosene? I could believe something more aggressive would damage just about any coating. But from what I've heard, strong solvents/cleaners aren't needed on Nyalic-coated parts, they just wipe clean.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,094
Likes: 654
From: Brentwood, TN
Yeah Ross, I read that but I also took a look at the MSDS sheet as well. If Mike Bishop uses it and is happy with how it performs than I would imagine that it would be good enough for my ole truck! If it wasn't so pricey I would pick some up and give it a little real world testing with some gasoline, oil, Gunk, SuperClean, brake fluid, and who knows what else. Always better to know what's gonna bite ya and then steer clear of it.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 316
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From: Ridgefield, Washington
Does don't ask mean it didn't go well? I was about to choose powder coating as it seems like the consensus product.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 316
Likes: 0
From: Ridgefield, Washington
Not sure which product you saw that on, Charlie. I don't have personal experience but Mike Bishop and other trustworthy sources use it. I don't have a lot of shiny on my engine!
From Nyalic's auto page:
"Nyalic is effective for environments exposed to acids, salts,urea, fly ash, mag chloride, lime, water, snow, ice, and sea air.
"Solvent-based chemicals can damage
Nyalic-coated surfaces. Avoid using
solvent-based cleaning solutions.
Damaged surfaces can be repaired with
Nyalic aerosol can."
Not clear if solvent-based cleaners includes Gunk-type cleaners with kerosene? I could believe something more aggressive would damage just about any coating. But from what I've heard, strong solvents/cleaners aren't needed on Nyalic-coated parts, they just wipe clean.
From Nyalic's auto page:
"Nyalic is effective for environments exposed to acids, salts,urea, fly ash, mag chloride, lime, water, snow, ice, and sea air.
"Solvent-based chemicals can damage
Nyalic-coated surfaces. Avoid using
solvent-based cleaning solutions.
Damaged surfaces can be repaired with
Nyalic aerosol can."
Not clear if solvent-based cleaners includes Gunk-type cleaners with kerosene? I could believe something more aggressive would damage just about any coating. But from what I've heard, strong solvents/cleaners aren't needed on Nyalic-coated parts, they just wipe clean.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,297
Likes: 1,059
From: NM
Yeah Ross, I read that but I also took a look at the MSDS sheet as well. If Mike Bishop uses it and is happy with how it performs than I would imagine that it would be good enough for my ole truck! If it wasn't so pricey I would pick some up and give it a little real world testing with some gasoline, oil, Gunk, SuperClean, brake fluid, and who knows what else. Always better to know what's gonna bite ya and then steer clear of it.
It is not recommended where gas will be dripping on it. (Intake manifolds) I understand Eastwood used to sell it (or still does) under their name.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,352
Likes: 1
From: Waleska, GA
Apparently, the aluminum expands and contracts at enough of a rate different than the powder coat to cause cracking (or maybe it was my "do-it-yourself" application? However, I've not had it happen on any of my other powder coating projects). Then, my Summit Racing powder coating hasn't played well with the heat rising from the headers (I figured if you can have plastic intakes, the heat can't be too bad....wrong). I suspect there's a high temp version of coating; go with it if you decide to go this route.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 316
Likes: 0
From: Ridgefield, Washington
I spoke to the folks at POR15 today. While they endorse the Glisten PC clear coat for the valve covers they were adamant that it will not prevent rust on the now stripped metal. But, neither will their engine enamels - you just won't be able to see the rust with a color. They do have a clear rust preventive product but said it will turn amber.
So, they recommend using their rust preventive base coat then engine enamel over that. Bummer - the covers really look good with the brushed metal finish.
So, they recommend using their rust preventive base coat then engine enamel over that. Bummer - the covers really look good with the brushed metal finish.