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Help Troubleshooting Rear Top Hatch Lock Not Working With Key?

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Old Jan 22, 2014 | 04:20 PM
  #1  
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Question Help Troubleshooting Rear Top Hatch Lock Not Working With Key?




Hi Folks, I'm trying to figure out how my hatch lock works so I can get it to work at least with the key.

Currently it's not doing anything when I move the key in the lock, all it does is move that rod with the bent end through the blue lined circle?

I'm just wondering how the heck this locks the door? Is something else supposed to move when I turn the key? That rod just goes in or out as shown in the two pictures.

And of course when I hit the lock/unlock on the remote the actuator does not move anything, just makes noise.

Thanks for any tips!
 
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Old Jan 22, 2014 | 04:25 PM
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Ok, to start out the locking motor is probably "bad". Look up the door lock fix and that should do that. I'll go snap a few pics of what my working hatch looks like and you can compare


And here's a video of how to rebuild the lock motor:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sAIipFrUNw4#t=14
 
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Old Jan 22, 2014 | 04:29 PM
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Mine was basically rusted together. I just disconected the connecting rod that connects the key lock cylinder to the latch and use the remote.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2014 | 08:55 PM
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Thanks for the replies guys. I still have no idea what is supposed to happen with the mechanisms when it locks and unlocks? All that happens when I turn the key is that the rod goes in and out of the blue lined circle as shown in the pics.

So disconnecting the rod is not going to let me lock it either way because the actuator is broken right? I just want to get the key lock working at least and worry about the actuator last.

If anyone has some pics of what it should look like locked and unlocked or a video that might help me see the light.

Thanks for any tips folks!
 
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Old Jan 22, 2014 | 10:44 PM
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Look at the Excursion tech folder at the top of the forum in the stickies area. There are a couple threads with numerous pictures showing how to take it all apart.

woo hoo, post 1000!
 
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Old Jan 23, 2014 | 12:23 AM
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Did you see my thread with pics on it. It might be in the tech folder.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2014 | 08:25 PM
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Not a technical answer to your answer, but just what I did when I got frustrated.

I looked at all the pictures I could and tried to figure out how it all worked. I bought a new actuator though.

I finally just hosed the whole thing down with WD40, and it started to work after moving parts back and forth by hand.

I still don't understand how it all actually works, but it does. May be worth a try.

Link to great price!

#3 in the picture if the link works
 
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Old Jan 23, 2014 | 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by The2003Excursion
Not a technical answer to your answer, but just what I did when I got frustrated.

I looked at all the pictures I could and tried to figure out how it all worked. I bought a new actuator though.

I finally just hosed the whole thing down with WD40, and it started to work after moving parts back and forth by hand.

I still don't understand how it all actually works, but it does. May be worth a try.

Link to great price!

#3 in the picture if the link works
That's a lot, they are on Ebay for peanuts or you can fix them for free. It is the same as the ones in the drivers side doors. Is that your teeth? That's gross.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2014 | 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by EXv10
That's a lot, they are on Ebay for peanuts or you can fix them for free. It is the same as the ones in the drivers side doors. Is that your teeth? That's gross.
If you think they look bad there, you should have seen the before picture.

The "great price" is based on it being a Ford OEM part, not an aftermarket item. So HORRIBLE price compared to $9.99 on Ebay, you are correct.

I was happy to get it from the dealer at that price, but that is apparently just me.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2014 | 11:05 PM
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Sadly that is just you, the "free" fix is the best option as it corrects the problem with the design and makes for a very good part. Buying a new one would be a waste to 99% of us
 
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Old Jan 24, 2014 | 12:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Apocalypse
Sadly that is just you, the "free" fix is the best option as it corrects the problem with the design and makes for a very good part. Buying a new one would be a waste to 99% of us
I was referring to the new actuator ONLY! as a purchase. What are you talking about? So if an actuator has a broken arm like mine did, 99% of those here would do something FREE?

My experience was simply needing to spray down the latch with WD40 and move the parts by hand, and that loosened it up so the actuator and the key would finally work.

Sadly I don't think you read what I wrote before you commented on it......
 
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Old Jan 24, 2014 | 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by The2003Excursion
I finally just hosed the whole thing down with WD40, and it started to work after moving parts back and forth by hand.

I still don't understand how it all actually works, but it does. May be worth a try.



THAT'S IT! THANKS!

So my problem was that I had no idea that this gold lever was supposed to rotate in and to the right when the sliver rod is pulled into the locking position. I took some of the WD40 rust/penetrating spray and sprayed all around that silver rod where it goes through the blue lined circle.

I kept trying to work the rod back and forth and nothing was working so then I tried opening the outside handle while moving the rod and eventually I was able to push that gold lever in rotated to the right.

So when you open the outside handle if you feel it pull those 2 cables then you know it's not locked. Once the gold level rotates in to the right in the locked position then when you pull that outside handle it has no resistance because it no longer pulls on the 2 cables.

So basically the only way I can lock it is to open/jiggle the outside handle while I turn the key to the lock position, eventually it catches and the lock mechanism successfully engages.

My power actuator is strong enough to unlock the door but not to lock it. So I have to lock manually but I can unlock with remote. Can't lock or unlock with the remote for any of my other doors.

SO FINALLY I CAN LOCK MY TRUCK AND BE SECURE! woo hoo!

Funny thing is that the Door Ajar light is now always on even if the hatch is locked and shut properly. Maybe it's cause I've not put the plastic panel cover back on the hatch door?

Might try to fix the actuator soon before I put the panel back.

Thanks for all the help guys! I hope these notes and the 2 pics may help someone else with a stuck lock.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2014 | 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by pauljadam



THAT'S IT! THANKS!

So my problem was that I had no idea that this gold lever was supposed to rotate in and to the right when the sliver rod is pulled into the locking position. I took some of the WD40 rust/penetrating spray and sprayed all around that silver rod where it goes through the blue lined circle.

I kept trying to work the rod back and forth and nothing was working so then I tried opening the outside handle while moving the rod and eventually I was able to push that gold lever in rotated to the right.

So when you open the outside handle if you feel it pull those 2 cables then you know it's not locked. Once the gold level rotates in to the right in the locked position then when you pull that outside handle it has no resistance because it no longer pulls on the 2 cables.

So basically the only way I can lock it is to open/jiggle the outside handle while I turn the key to the lock position, eventually it catches and the lock mechanism successfully engages.

My power actuator is strong enough to unlock the door but not to lock it. So I have to lock manually but I can unlock with remote. Can't lock or unlock with the remote for any of my other doors.

SO FINALLY I CAN LOCK MY TRUCK AND BE SECURE! woo hoo!

Funny thing is that the Door Ajar light is now always on even if the hatch is locked and shut properly. Maybe it's cause I've not put the plastic panel cover back on the hatch door?

Might try to fix the actuator soon before I put the panel back.

Thanks for all the help guys! I hope these notes and the 2 pics may help someone else with a stuck lock.
And that is another story which gets into another thread which I never really got to the bottom of. Everyone had a theory on why the light stay on, good luck with that.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2014 | 12:47 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by pauljadam

THAT'S IT! THANKS!
Glad that worked for you. Hope that doesn't put you in the unfortunate 1% though.... Oh, you didn't buy anything so you will be ok.

Now figure out the light thing.....
 
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Old Jan 25, 2014 | 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by The2003Excursion
Glad that worked for you. Hope that doesn't put you in the unfortunate 1% though.... Oh, you didn't buy anything so you will be ok.

Now figure out the light thing.....
teeth gone please!
 
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