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Halp, truck won't heat up much :(

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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 07:11 PM
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Halp, truck won't heat up much :(

Ok, so it's getting cold here. I turn on the heat and hot air comes out, but I have it on full blast and full heat and it's just not that hot. I thought the T-stat might be stuck open so I replaced it tonight (it was fine as far as I could tell) and then ran it for 20 minutes in the driveway. No leaks, everything looks fine. I had it on full heat with fan on high the entire time. I came back out and got in the truck and just warm, not hot. Here is a shot of the gauge in the truck, it should be a little under halfway right? I know this sounds kind of odd but I think it was getting hotter with the old T-stat. This one is the crap Duralast WITHOUT the fail safe. It's a 195 degree, that's all they offered.




 
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 07:45 PM
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The problem could be a couple of things that I know of off the top of my head.

1. Got a defective T-Stat right out of the box. (not likely, but it happens)

2. Clogged heater-core. (more likely)

There are a couple of videos on Youtube that explain very nicely how to un-clog the heater cores on F250 / SuperDuty with the V10 engines. It involves unhooking the hoses that go into the firewall on the engine side.... then using some sort of "solvent" (I can't remember what they used... refer to vids for that).... letting it set for awhile..... then using compressed air to blow it all out into a plastic jug.

I watched them just in case I had this problem someday and they were very informative and seemed like a pretty easy operation. The symptom that both had was the same as you... little or no heat in the passenger compartment.

Hope this helps send you in the right direction... then again... I could just be nuts...

James
 
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 07:56 PM
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I don't think there is anything wrong.

How cold was it outside? You were expecting your engine to come all the way up to temperature idling with the heater blasting. I find that extremely unrealistic unless it's hot out.

Fully up to temperature the heater can throw a LOT of BTUs. But that heat comes from the engine...you were pulling heat out of the engine while it was producing as little heat as possible. Go for a drive and then tell us how it is.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 08:08 PM
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On the 2 hour ride home last night it was the same and so was the gauge. The coolant looks perfect too which is nice
 
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Apocalypse
On the 2 hour ride home last night it was the same and so was the gauge. The coolant looks perfect too which is nice
Okay, so maybe something is wrong. But without actually measuring your coolant temperature there's no good way to tell. I suggest investing in something like THIS to see how warm it's actually running.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 10:09 PM
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What temp is the new t-stat?

It does look low on the idiot gauge, but those are vague at best. I agree, only way to know for sure is to get something that will read the temp right off the engine computer.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom

How cold was it outside? You were expecting your engine to come all the way up to temperature idling with the heater blasting. I find that extremely unrealistic unless it's hot out.

i have to disagree, i remote start my truck at -20 and let it run a good 30-40 mins and i'll be at full temp with both front and rear heaters blowing full blast. thats all idle time making sure its warm for the drive home.

your truck is not getting to temp as the gauge shows you.

I'm having the same issue with my friends '05 dodge Neon. replaced the t-stat and its still not making heat gauge hardly comes off C after driving all day. i have covered 95% of the radiator and it helped a little but something is still wrong. I'm going to try another t-stat here soon...
 
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom
Okay, so maybe something is wrong. But without actually measuring your coolant temperature there's no good way to tell. I suggest investing in something like THIS to see how warm it's actually running.
I know many will already know and it says right on the AD but this also works with Windows laptops, you don't need to have an android or jailbroken iPhone to use. I've known a few people to not order them because they think they are only for mobile devices. Just a heads up.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by AlaskanEx
i have to disagree, i remote start my truck at -20 and let it run a good 30-40 mins and i'll be at full temp with both front and rear heaters blowing full blast. thats all idle time making sure its warm for the drive home. your truck is not getting to temp as the gauge shows you. I'm having the same issue with my friends '05 dodge Neon. replaced the t-stat and its still not making heat gauge hardly comes off C after driving all day. i have covered 95% of the radiator and it helped a little but something is still wrong. I'm going to try another t-stat here soon...
Check your temps Russ, not the idiot gauge. Mine never would stay above 170 in those conditions. Going down the road it would stay around 188-190. And my V10 makes 20% more heat at idle than the OP's V8 does.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by nmclella
I know many will already know and it says right on the AD but this also works with Windows laptops, you don't need to have an android or jailbroken iPhone to use. I've known a few people to not order them because they think they are only for mobile devices. Just a heads up.
Well I thought the same thing as I have an iPhone and a macbook... however for just a little more I can get the same thing for IOS

LYL® Elm327 WIFI Wirless OBD2 Car Diagnostic Reader Scanner Scan Tool for Iphone iPad iOS PC : Amazon.com : Automotive LYL® Elm327 WIFI Wirless OBD2 Car Diagnostic Reader Scanner Scan Tool for Iphone iPad iOS PC : Amazon.com : Automotive

Trying to talk the wife into letting me buy it tonight. We have $120 until Friday but the X needs gas
 
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 10:37 PM
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I would replace it with a motorcraft stat, aftermarket ones have been know to be crap on more than one occasion , just ask Brent..
 
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom
Check your temps Russ, not the idiot gauge. Mine never would stay above 170 in those conditions. Going down the road it would stay around 188-190. And my V10 makes 20% more heat at idle than the OP's V8 does.

might be true, but the gauge is right dead center in the middle and its giving off full temp heat inside. clearly his truck is not getting to temp when you combine the gauge and his own feeling of the heat in the truck.

i'm not sure what temp makes the gauge pop to "normal"...anyone know?
 
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 11:02 PM
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Well mine runs at about 180* and sits about the middle of the guage. Blows plenty hot heat, and does so at idle for 15-20 min in weather around 0* air temp.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 11:31 PM
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Get a MOTORCRAFT stat before you proceed any further! They aren't the same as they were many years ago, there is a special coolant circuit in the modular engines that needs to work right.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2014 | 12:42 AM
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Originally Posted by EXv10
Get a MOTORCRAFT stat before you proceed any further! They aren't the same as they were many years ago, there is a special coolant circuit in the modular engines that needs to work right.
The one that came out was a motorcraft and I'm about 99% sure it was fine. I had to re-use the gasket o-ring because the one that came with the new one didn't fit with it on. I'll take it back out tomorrow and toss the old one back in. It worked fine and the $12 could be used for a lot more than some crappy T-stat. Where is the best place to get a Motorcraft one from? After winter passes I'm planning on doing some preventative maintenance and want to do it right from the get-to
 
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