Maybe my First F100!
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Maybe my First F100!
hello everyone, this is my first post in this forum.I am looking at a 53 f-100 V8 stepside and just wanted to know if there is anything that I should look out for with these trucks. such as particular rust areas and so forth.The truck I'm looking at seems to be all there... Apart... But mostly there. It is somewhat disassembled so it may be missing some hardware to attach the fenders and bed. it also appears to be missing a cylinder head and a couple valvesbut that is not too big a deal. it seems to be a fairly solid truck, the cab is still mounted on the frame, it has front and rear axles still under it with wheels and tires on them. I'm pretty much looking for some pointers since I have never owned an antique f-100 pickup before. Thank you
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,636
Likes: 11
From: Crossville, Tn
Questions that you should be asking yourself....
1. Do you have the mechanical ability, knowledge, skill and MONEY to attack this project.
2. Do you plan to do the majority of the work yourself, or 'farm it out', if the later, do you have a boat load of $$$$$?
If you answered yes to both of the above, go for it. If you answered no, you might want to look for something that is more together. Generally when you run across one that is all apart, it's there and for sale because the seller decided that he was in over his head and needs out. Things like, "It's missing a cylinder head" should be a big red flag that the engine is probably Junk, and you'll be looking for another, or at least a major rebuild.
If you can buy it for a few hundred$$ and it has a clear title, it would probably be a good buy as a parts truck.
1. Do you have the mechanical ability, knowledge, skill and MONEY to attack this project.
2. Do you plan to do the majority of the work yourself, or 'farm it out', if the later, do you have a boat load of $$$$$?
If you answered yes to both of the above, go for it. If you answered no, you might want to look for something that is more together. Generally when you run across one that is all apart, it's there and for sale because the seller decided that he was in over his head and needs out. Things like, "It's missing a cylinder head" should be a big red flag that the engine is probably Junk, and you'll be looking for another, or at least a major rebuild.
If you can buy it for a few hundred$$ and it has a clear title, it would probably be a good buy as a parts truck.
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New User
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I have the ability. And it would be a project truck so i have the time. I have an engine and trans home and can assemble anything that needs to be. It has mostly original paint and great petina. My plan is to assemble the body on a solid platform(new bushings brakes, suspension and steering maintenance) and install my rebuilt drivetrain and drive her like so. I know restoring vehicles is not cheap or easy. But it is a passion and i'd rather put the time and money into something worthwhile and also something i like.
Elder User
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 728
Likes: 2
From: North Idaho
Harley is dead on the money here.
You need to have a good plan for what you want at the end of the project BEFORE you get involved. Whether you want to just get a "driver" which from the sounds of things may be a few thousand or more, or if you want to do a "restore" which will cost more, or if you want to do a "custom" even more $, or if you plan on going hog wild and do a "street rod" which will be lotsacash.
If you can do a lot of the grunt work and have the tools to do it the cash flow will be slower but they will all cost you more than you think.
As far as what to look for, the front and rear cab corners on these trucks are usually rotted to some degree as is the front floor adjacent to the cab mounts. The interior stiffeners on the fenders, especially the rears tend to pack crud in and rot so look at those with a ice pick. You want to examine the frame closely to check for impact damage, bends and cracks. Remember, these were work trucks and a lot of them got worked hard.
But, in closing, welcome to the forum and I hope we haven't talked you out of anything and I will look forward to seeing your truck build if you decide to join in to our insanity.
You need to have a good plan for what you want at the end of the project BEFORE you get involved. Whether you want to just get a "driver" which from the sounds of things may be a few thousand or more, or if you want to do a "restore" which will cost more, or if you want to do a "custom" even more $, or if you plan on going hog wild and do a "street rod" which will be lotsacash.
If you can do a lot of the grunt work and have the tools to do it the cash flow will be slower but they will all cost you more than you think.
As far as what to look for, the front and rear cab corners on these trucks are usually rotted to some degree as is the front floor adjacent to the cab mounts. The interior stiffeners on the fenders, especially the rears tend to pack crud in and rot so look at those with a ice pick. You want to examine the frame closely to check for impact damage, bends and cracks. Remember, these were work trucks and a lot of them got worked hard.
But, in closing, welcome to the forum and I hope we haven't talked you out of anything and I will look forward to seeing your truck build if you decide to join in to our insanity.
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New User
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Thank you guys for the replies. I have been in this hobby for about 25 years now. Just really looking for the typical ins and outs of these trucks so i know what to look for. No trailer queen project here. Just looking for a safe solid maintained good running project i can drive and work on safely.
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,636
Likes: 11
From: Crossville, Tn
I have the ability. And it would be a project truck so i have the time. I have an engine and trans home and can assemble anything that needs to be. It has mostly original paint and great petina. My plan is to assemble the body on a solid platform(new bushings brakes, suspension and steering maintenance) and install my rebuilt drivetrain and drive her like so. I know restoring vehicles is not cheap or easy. But it is a passion and i'd rather put the time and money into something worthwhile and also something i like.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,094
Likes: 654
From: Brentwood, TN
An old line that I like to recall is, "if you don't know where you are going then any road will get you there". If you have the experience and the skills then this 53 F100 should be no great challenge. These trucks were built to be simple to operate and simple to maintain. That said, this is NOT 1953 and the roads that we drive today are far different. If you have never driven a 1953 F100 then I encourage you to do so before you determine "where you are going". Rearend gear ratios, steering, brakes, wipers, suspension, etc, etc, etc are all areas to be considered before you spend a lot of time and effort on a restoration. The last thing you want is to invest a lot of time and effort into building a truck you don't want to drive.
The aftermarket is full of parts for these trucks so whatever challenge you run into in your build will be able to be overcome without too much trouble. Good luck and post lots of pics...
The aftermarket is full of parts for these trucks so whatever challenge you run into in your build will be able to be overcome without too much trouble. Good luck and post lots of pics...
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New User
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Thankyou for the warm welcome as well as the words of encouragement and advice. As much as i like cool vehicles and working on them. I like just as much knowing im saving one.
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Believe Nothing
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 7,516
Likes: 401
From: W. Central FL.
Only the laws of your state and area will determine whether or not it is a problem. Contact your local agencies for advice. Perhaps due to age, all that is necessary is a bill of sale, but I am speculating. Again, only your locals will know how to handle this. Personally, I would spend no money 'till I knew.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
To answer your original question: The common rust ares are the 4 cab lower corners, rockers inside doors, floor, door skin bottoms and door frame bottoms, fenders where they attach to running boards and around grill opening, roof above gutter, hood front edge, the running boards, lower bed sides and tailgate hinge area. In other words anyplace water and/or salt can accumulate. body rust repair is the biggest money pit, you want to spend money on the best sheetmetal you can find/afford. There are a lot of the sheetmetal repair panels available, but some are not (roof, hood front, fenders: FG front and FG or steel rears repops are available) You may want to download or order a free Mid Fifty catalog Home - Mid Fifty F-100 Parts it is a really handy resource with a whole lot of extra info, great drawings, and most all the parts available for restoration or modification to these trucks, besides they are great people to work with.
Oh, and welcome!
Oh, and welcome!
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 859
Likes: 3
From: Newberg, OR
is there a plate on it? and dose the seller own it? A plate or old registration (with plate no.) will go a long way toward making this work. I believe all states, certainly most states have all vehicle recorded by plate number, not VIN no. Well maybe they could find a newer vehicle in their data base by VIN no. but not older ones. The seller could request a replacement title if you find the record at the DMV.
