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T98 output shaft crown nut thread direction???

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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 06:13 PM
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T98 output shaft crown nut thread direction???

I've PB blasted, heated, beat on and can't remove the crown nut from the output shaft on this T98. Is it by any chance left hand thread? Thanks in advance for the help.

Bryan
 
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 06:58 PM
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Nope, regular RH castellated nut but it has a cotter pin.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 07:13 PM
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I used a 3/4" drive breaker on mine when new seal time rolled around. A large impact driver may be the best incentive. If it's still mounted, put it in reverse to get the maximum of the motor's compression for resistance. It is right-hand thread. It is a big dog too. Have fun!
 
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 08:06 PM
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Thanks for the reassurance. I'll fight her some more.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 10:04 PM
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I basically bench-pressed an F500 to get that nut to crack. You don't want to get the tail shaft over about 430 Fahrenheit or you risk ruining its temper. As well as melting seals, etc.

It would seem to me that a massive breaker bar, a floor jack, and some protective gear could make short work of that job. Be sure to stand clear!!
 

Last edited by The Horvaths; Oct 6, 2013 at 10:13 PM. Reason: Tom Foolery.
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 10:30 PM
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Sadly the tranny is out of the truck. I haven't had this much fun since removing the rear suspension pins. The ol gal will have her blood sacrifice but I'll win in the end.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2013 | 04:31 PM
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haha, I won...and without the blood sacrifice.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2013 | 05:17 PM
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As I recall, the trick if it's out of the truck is to remove the top cover, and put it into two gears at once. Locks it up tight.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2013 | 06:10 PM
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Thanks, always good to know tricks that might help in the future.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2013 | 09:07 PM
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Borg Warner T-98 4 Speed
 
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Old Oct 7, 2013 | 11:14 PM
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Thanks ND. This one seemed to be in good shape when I pulled it from my truck. I'm planning on pulling the cover and peek inside hopefully tomorrow. At some point in its history someone had it apart as there is silicone for gaskets at the fwd and aft bearing retainers. I'm worried about their integrity so I plan to redo with NAPA's gasket maker. I've pretty much cleaned the exterior except for the rear bearing retainer which was blocked by the parking brake hub. I'll post a before/after pic once I have it back together.

On a side note...what has everyone been doing for coating. Paint, POR15 or just leave it alone???

thx,
Bryan
 
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Old Oct 8, 2013 | 05:23 AM
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It came bare. You really do not want to add anything to insulate it if you plan to drive it.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2013 | 09:14 AM
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No problem painting it, they don't get that hot. I used engine paint, it holds up well and makes it easy to wipe off the leakage.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2013 | 09:36 PM
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Well I got all the rear bearing retainer cleaned up this evening and all the gaskets on the tranny replaced with "the right stuff" gasket maker. For now I'm leaning toward just leaving as is.

and as it came off the truck.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2013 | 05:52 AM
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When it is in neutral and you turn the input shaft by hand does it make some bearing noises from the lower shaft area? Albatross' T98 does. It made noise in neutral, louder when warmed up, and I suspected the pilot bearing. The pilot bearing wasn't in stellar shape. However, now that I have the motor and transmission out for engine rebuild, I wonder if there may be a shaft bearing unhappy in the T98. Other than a slight noise in neutral, everything looks to be in good shape. I darned sure don't want to put it back in only to pull it again. It is very, very heavy.
PS: I am hearing the noise with the transmission "dry." It isn't particularly loud and is a fairly low frequency "rumbling" sound. There is no erratic crunch, grittiness or popping (I've got that going for me, anyway!).
 

Last edited by The Horvaths; Oct 9, 2013 at 05:59 AM. Reason: Drying out..
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