I'm new here and came across this board through a google search and thought I'd try asking here. My 03 ranger with a 2.3 I4 does not want to restart when it is above about 80 deg outside and engine is warm. Will crank, but as soon as fuel in line runs out it stalls, like a vapor lock. After about 45 mins can push start normally( has manual trans) but have to wait about 2 hours to use starter to start. Anyone with any ideas? Thanks

 

Replace fuel filter ,clean MAF sensor. Other possibilities failing fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator. The information regarding push starting( waiting two hrs) points to more of a hot soak starter/solenoid issue but you indicated in your post that it cranks.

 

Pretty sure it is in the fuel system, since when I spray ether into intake it will run thru running out of ether. Will chk fuel filter

 

Welcome to FTE.

Do you have a CEL/SES light lit???? If so, run this puppy by your favorite autoparts store for a no cost computer trouble code scan & post All code Numbers, as they can offer up good trouble shooting clues.

If no trouble codes, when it won't start, when you turn the ignition key to KOEO, before you crank the engine, can you hear the fuel pump run for a couple of seconds & turn off???? If you can't hear the pump run, maybe put the fuel pump power replay on your suspect list, so try swapping it with a like one not needed to run the engine, like the AC power relay & see how it goes.

If no joy there, when it won't start, perform a fuel pressure test at the under hood fuel rail Schrader valve test port & post the fuel pressure numbers.

More thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.

 

2001 2.5\L A/T with 48k miles, excellent maintenance, exc 2 Senior owner garage queen condition.

Normal start/run for 10-15 mile errands with 2-3 stops with no trouble light or codes.

When parked after stops and restarts, will crank but not start. Acted like fuel pump relay problem, switched relays, fuel pump inertia switch never tripped, disconnected/reconnected battery cable. Can sit for 1-4 hours and starts/runs perfect with no trouble light.

Ran Seafoam through tank of fuel (always Chevron) and changed fuel filter.

Been happening for 1 1/2 years with no better/worse.

When conditions are suspect, let it idle at stops and got home to garage before shutting down.

When wouldn't restart (starter turns good--battery good)), checked spark at plugs--good. Fuel Pressure ZERO. Code reader shows 455--Evap System Leak--LARGE.

Sits overnight and starts/runs great with no trouble light or codes.



What in Evap/Fuel pump systems could cause fuel pump shutoff? Want to eliminate accessible components before pulling fuel tank for fuel pump hanger components.

Am retired and have more time to fiddle this myself than money to pay an expert. Shade Tree Motorhead --Learning everyday in my retirement with this info superhighway.

Thanks--Ralph

New FTE member. First New Car--66 Mustang (200 CI 3 Speed Stick)--Lifelong Ford Enthusiast with extensive Ford ownership including Boss 429, Pantera, small block Cobra, etc.

 

EDIT: Welcome to the FTE forum.

For both of you, when it won't start, can you hear the fuel pump run for a couple of seconds & cut off, each time you go from off to run on the ignition switch, before going to start to crank the engine???? When the ignition switch is at KOEO/Run, are all of the dash warning lights lit????

If you can't hear the fuel pump run at KOEO, check the in cabin inertia switch in the passenger side foot well, to make sure it isn't tripped. If that's ok, look to the under hood fuel pump power relay & swap it out with a like one not needed to run the engine, like the A/C power relay.

When it won't restart & the dash warning lights aren't lit at KOEO, swap out the Computer power relay with a like one not needed to run the engine, like the A/C power relay.

On the P0455 code, look for a vapor recovery hose problem somewhere between the intake manifold connection, to the vapor recovery tank/charcoal canister, to the fuel tank.

 

Thanks for the suggestions--have done all of those things and still no pump until it sits for awhile and then all is normal again.

Strange that i only get the 455 code when pump is not providing fuel pressure and not when running normally. The 2 situations are simultaneous and intermittent.

Anyone aware of interface between the evac system and the fuel pump operation that would cause fuel pump to stop?

 

OK, good feedback. You may have more than one problem & intermittent problems are the most difficult to run down, but if you have patience & think things through, you should be able to isolate the problem with some methodical testing.

The computer activates the evap system on a start, so that it draws fuel fumes stored in the charcoal vapor canister, to make starts faster, as the fuel is already in vapor form it ignites faster/easier. The computer is sensing that the system has a vacuum leak, so are you smelling gas fumes any where??? If so, inspect the vapor recovery lines as outlined above & include an inspection of the gas cap gasket & fill tube to the tank.

Since say you don't have fuel pressure & can't hear the fuel pump run at KOEO, its either because the computer isn't commanding B+ to be switched to the pump, or B+ isn't reaching the pump because of an intermittent open circuit, or the fuel pump is intermittently bad, or its ground is intermittently bad, or the pump is running, but you can't hear it, but its attached fuel pressure regulator is intermittently acting out & not letting it build pressure.

SO, since you say you can't hear the fuel pump run at KOEO, are the dash warning lights & CEL/SES light lit. If not, the computer isn't receiving power from its under hood power relay. So look to the under hood computer power relay & swap it out or do a wiggle/thump test as suggested above.

If that's ok, then its time to break out your multi-meter & on its 20 vdc range, determine if B+ is getting as far as the in cabin fuel pump inertia cut off switch for a couple of seconds at KOEO, by back probing its contacts to a good clean non painted chassis/body ground connection.

If your not getting B+ to the inertia switch at KOEO, move under hood to the power distribution box, to determine if the fuel pump power relay contacts are closing at KOEO, to send B+ to the inertia switch. If the fuel pump power relay isn't operating, back probe its solenoid connections to determine if the computer is commanding it to operate at KOEO. If no voltage to the relay solenoid, perform a wiggle/thump test on it & the wiring back to the computer firewall electrical connector.

Thump & wiggle the computer firewall electrical connector, to see if you can cause the relay to wake up. If not, disconnect the battery B- cable, then disconnect the computer under hood firewall electrical connector to check the relays wiring/pin/socket connections for corrosion, poor wire crimp, bad solder connection, broken wire strands. If all that checks out ok, suspect an intermittent temp caused computer driver problem.

If your getting B+ to the inertia switch, suspect a wiring or electrical connector problem from the inertia switch to the pump, or a problem with the fuel pump itself.

More thoughts for consideration, let us know how your trouble shoot goes.

 

Will copy this and try to identify and test these items--Thanks

 

Went to auto zone and got comp read. Only code was p0300 (random misfire). Had a tune up in April. Guy there reset it and it has not come back on yet.

 

Ok, so no code clues after the tune up, is it still randomly stalling???? If so have you checked fuel pressure at the fuel rail schrader valve & fuel delivery volume over time, when its in one of its no start fits????

 

With the trouble code almost sounds like a vac hose leak at evap canister (near where spare tire is located). Maybe the issue with both trucks.

 

Okay so Google brought me to this thread. I have a 2003 food ranger 5 spd that I'm having a problem staying when hot. When I go to start it in the morning starts like a brand new truck. But when I go to the store and shut it off it crank no starts but if I let it cool down it starts bit I can bump start it if I have a decent rolling speed. I have replaced all of the above fuel pump, fuel injectors, iac valve, air filter, spark plugs, wires and coil pack, coolant temp sensor, and still having the same issue I do happen to have an exhaust leak at the flame on the driver side of that has anything to do with it but with everyone I've talked to says it wouldn't effect anything. (Planning on fixing that soon anyways) so I've resorted to the internet.

 

Welcome to FTE.
You've revived an old open thread to which the OP & another never gave feedback on their hot no start problems, so I'd suggest you go to the forum index page here 1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums (ford-trucks.com) & look atop it to the left of the thread stack for the "New Thread" button & click on that to open a new thread so you get answers just for your problem.

To save some time you could copy the info you or I'm about to post here, in your new thread.

The "Hot bump start ok" clue suggests a voltage drop problem when something is hot & you crank the engine for a Hot restart. Things like a Heat sensitive battery or acting out power relay, like for the fuel pump, ignition system or computer belong on the suspect list. So to narrow things down some we know it takes Air, Fuel & Spark to make em run, so what's going missing on a hot Cranked engine that wont restart??? Test hot fuel pressure with a gauge at the under hood fuel rail Shrader valve test port & use your inductive timing light on any easy to get at ignition cable to safely check for spark.

Also scan for & post up All trouble code Number clues as they can help focus a troubleshoot. Some initial thoughts for consideration, looking foward to reading your reply in your new thread.

 

I had an old Bronco that would start fine when cold and not start when the engine was hot. It turned out to be a bad engine coolant sensor. The computer though the engine was overheated and shut off the fuel pump, as I recall. It was not the sender for the gauge. It had a separate coolant sensor for the computer. Cheap part but hard to figure out.