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Takes forever to start up?

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Old Jul 13, 2013 | 08:06 PM
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Takes forever to start up?

Hello. I replaced my GP and Injector O-rings two months ago. About a month ago, I noticed it was taking longer to crank over, and I would get more smoke than usual at start up. Even if it's 80 degrees out, it takes 5 or more seconds to fire off with a lot of white smoke. Once its running it runs great. GPR has 11.3 volts on hot side, 10.9 volts on the other, HPOP has oil just below filler plug, oil has 500 miles on it and is full. Batteries disconnected have 12.5 volts ea. Just replaced the starter and it's rpms are fine. Wait to start light comes on, and tac is registering when starter is cranking. The long crank times are getting longer and I'm getting frustrated. Any ideas?
 
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Old Jul 13, 2013 | 08:30 PM
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I'd take a look at the connection on the starter relay. Take a voltage reading there on the hot side. Maybe pull the wires off and clean them up. Make sure you have a solid connection. Then go back to the hot side of the GPR and see if your feed voltage has changed. Then another reading o the other lug with the key on. Likely you just need a good GPR. If so don't by it from Napa. The last few I've seen from them are complete junk. I had two in a row that were bad out of the box on the 97. I think the one thats on it now is Delphi. Stancor or the Western plow is the way to go on a 49 state rig.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2013 | 08:41 PM
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Clean all battery and starter connections
 
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Old Jul 13, 2013 | 10:07 PM
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Also check the tin nut that holds the solenoid on the IPR. If that nut backed off, that can cause long cranking time.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2013 | 10:43 PM
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11.3 Vs 10.9 if those readings are the two lugs on gp relay with it energized its cooked.any more drop than .1 v is bad across it.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by fordman67
11.3 Vs 10.9 if those readings are the two lugs on gp relay with it energized its cooked.any more drop than .1 v is bad across it.
FSM allows 0.3V. But the OP is still beyond that, so +1 on weak GPR.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 01:12 PM
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Ok gents thanks for the responses. I'll clean all the connections, check the IPR nut, and get the Stancor GPR. Once installed I'll let you know what happens.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2013 | 04:50 PM
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It's been two weeks or so but I wanted to provide feedback on my starting problem. The GPR was the problem. I installed a new White/Rodgers, aka Stancor, and the long start with excessive white smoke was resolved. The old GPR was losing >.3 volts between the GPR posts, and that was enough. The new GPR had even voltage on both posts when the relay was activated, and the improvement was definate. Thanks to all for the information.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2013 | 08:04 AM
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Thanks for getting back to us with the solution.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2013 | 08:09 AM
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Good deal.i have stancor also.its a good unit.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 05:48 PM
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Is the Stanford the GPR I have on mine Aaron?
 
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 07:02 AM
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I think you just have a stock type replacement josh. I dont think you can use the engine cover with the stancor.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 07:12 AM
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My truck didn't need the gpr if temps were above 60*
 
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 10:04 AM
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Even during the summer in Wa, the temp drops below 60 in the early morning. That's when I had the most problems. My engine cover fit fine after installing the Stancor. It is freaking huge, but didn't interfere.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 02:02 PM
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I dont have one but thought i had read..oh well im illiterate lol
 
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