2002 F-150 Cuts out towing highway
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2002 F-150 Cuts out towing highway
Hello all,
I have a f150 02 that suddenly started cutting out on the highway and wont idle without revving it to the moon or it will sit and surge. I cleaned the MAF sensor and I thought it helped and it seemed to run fine. Another 100 or so miles down the highway and it started cutting out again. Pulled into a gas station and same thing. I thought maybe I didnt clean it good enough so I re-cleaned it. I assembled it back together and it didnt seem to help, waited a bit and ran great. It seems to be fine driving around town. Any help would be appreciated as I need to get home in a week and stopping every 100 miles for 1200 miles would make for a long trip with the kids. All else fails Ill take it to a dealer.
Thanks,
Pat
I have a f150 02 that suddenly started cutting out on the highway and wont idle without revving it to the moon or it will sit and surge. I cleaned the MAF sensor and I thought it helped and it seemed to run fine. Another 100 or so miles down the highway and it started cutting out again. Pulled into a gas station and same thing. I thought maybe I didnt clean it good enough so I re-cleaned it. I assembled it back together and it didnt seem to help, waited a bit and ran great. It seems to be fine driving around town. Any help would be appreciated as I need to get home in a week and stopping every 100 miles for 1200 miles would make for a long trip with the kids. All else fails Ill take it to a dealer.
Thanks,
Pat
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2006
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First the MAF has nothing to do with cutting out.
Let it alone.
A cutout if that is what is happening is electrical in nature.
Only other positive is the motor won't idle.
This brings in other areas such as the IAC, Crank sensor, relays etc.
There is nothing solid to go on at this point.
If you have no tools or expertise away from home you need to visit a shop that will look at the situation and make an honest effort due to the intermittent nature of it..
Good luck.
Let it alone.
A cutout if that is what is happening is electrical in nature.
Only other positive is the motor won't idle.
This brings in other areas such as the IAC, Crank sensor, relays etc.
There is nothing solid to go on at this point.
If you have no tools or expertise away from home you need to visit a shop that will look at the situation and make an honest effort due to the intermittent nature of it..
Good luck.
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Can these run with a crank sensor bad?. Also would the IAC mess up on the highway and high RPM's? I have all the tools for replacing whatever, and also I have a programmer that lest me run codes (none present). The one thing I was going to try is to unplug the EGR? It has 130K on it
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2012
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From: Philly, PA USA
IAC -typically acts up when sitting at a light or in park.... at idle...hence the name Idle Air Control
no codes present or pending either, correct?
at this point it could be anything, and yes truck can still run with bad crank sensor but they typically throw codes and don't just cut off. They usually won't let the truck restart when hot or intermittently after cutoff by key.
I would lean more towards fuel pump issue? more so towards the fuel pump motor rather than a relay for it, since relays would have similar to crank sensor symptoms not allowing to restart truck when hot and without throwing codes. Pump could be intermittently working and uneven pressure at times...too high too low
Good luck
no codes present or pending either, correct?
at this point it could be anything, and yes truck can still run with bad crank sensor but they typically throw codes and don't just cut off. They usually won't let the truck restart when hot or intermittently after cutoff by key.
I would lean more towards fuel pump issue? more so towards the fuel pump motor rather than a relay for it, since relays would have similar to crank sensor symptoms not allowing to restart truck when hot and without throwing codes. Pump could be intermittently working and uneven pressure at times...too high too low
Good luck
Lead Driver
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Lets put it this way on the crank sensor.
If it does not work the motor will not run.
Reason:
All referenced operations is from the crank sensor.
It causes the fuel pump to run, it is the tach reference for all rpm related functions, it measures crank rotation time for the misfire monitors plus other functions it's signal is provided for.
Often the crank sensor plug comes loose and gets dirty with oil and grime.
Good luck.
If it does not work the motor will not run.
Reason:
All referenced operations is from the crank sensor.
It causes the fuel pump to run, it is the tach reference for all rpm related functions, it measures crank rotation time for the misfire monitors plus other functions it's signal is provided for.
Often the crank sensor plug comes loose and gets dirty with oil and grime.
Good luck.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 776
Likes: 3
From: Philly, PA USA
Lets put it this way on the crank sensor.
If it does not work the motor will not run.
Reason:
All referenced operations is from the crank sensor.
It causes the fuel pump to run, it is the tach reference for all rpm related functions, it measures crank rotation time for the misfire monitors plus other functions it's signal is provided for.
Often the crank sensor plug comes loose and gets dirty with oil and grime.
Good luck.
If it does not work the motor will not run.
Reason:
All referenced operations is from the crank sensor.
It causes the fuel pump to run, it is the tach reference for all rpm related functions, it measures crank rotation time for the misfire monitors plus other functions it's signal is provided for.
Often the crank sensor plug comes loose and gets dirty with oil and grime.
Good luck.
yes agree with above, if crank sensor is completely dead, truck won't run.
problem is it is intermittent while running and also causes truck to surge.... How many crank sensors have done that, that you know of?
I do know if you do ever end up replacing them, to ONLY go with a Motorcraft one and definitely never aftermarket or other brand. I have seen electrical interference with aftermarket brands installed and some of those symptoms are cutting out truck but ONLY when wipers go/switched on or lights switched on....
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2012
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From: Philly, PA USA
I just reread this, and I may have misunderstood this.... in order to keep it running at idle you have to step on gas? In this case that could be IAC ... you can check resistance though, unplug and verify it's between 6 and 13 ohms.
The Crank sensor can be ohmed out too..unplug and I believe it should be between 290-800ohms... not open either
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Update
Im home. I took it to the dealer there and they wanted to replace everything from the the coil packs to the fuel pump. $2500. Told them to fly a kite. Babied it home found that it does it on 1/4 tank or less and heavy running (the hotter the worse). Suspect we put in a faulty pump and going to test the pressures (dealer said the pressure was off at temp, but making sure). Will update. And yes the filter is newer.
They wanted to replace
Pump, inertia switch, relay, filter, 2 coil packs (read misfire (well duh it it isnt getting fuel)) plugs (they are newer also)) and all the bulbs in the rear of the truck (i have a reverse light out and the 3rd brake light so they wanted to do them all)
Gouging and replacing needless things.
Im home. I took it to the dealer there and they wanted to replace everything from the the coil packs to the fuel pump. $2500. Told them to fly a kite. Babied it home found that it does it on 1/4 tank or less and heavy running (the hotter the worse). Suspect we put in a faulty pump and going to test the pressures (dealer said the pressure was off at temp, but making sure). Will update. And yes the filter is newer.
They wanted to replace
Pump, inertia switch, relay, filter, 2 coil packs (read misfire (well duh it it isnt getting fuel)) plugs (they are newer also)) and all the bulbs in the rear of the truck (i have a reverse light out and the 3rd brake light so they wanted to do them all)
Gouging and replacing needless things.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 776
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From: Philly, PA USA
wow! can't believe they wanted to replace all that! As you said, tons of it is useless, just money in their pockets! Let's throw enough parts at it and eventually one of them will work philosophy!
Hope with at least replacing that pump all works out! That inertia switch is easy enough to bypass for testing purposes at the minimum....all else you stated sounds logical enough, good luck!
Hope with at least replacing that pump all works out! That inertia switch is easy enough to bypass for testing purposes at the minimum....all else you stated sounds logical enough, good luck!
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wow! can't believe they wanted to replace all that! As you said, tons of it is useless, just money in their pockets! Let's throw enough parts at it and eventually one of them will work philosophy!
Hope with at least replacing that pump all works out! That inertia switch is easy enough to bypass for testing purposes at the minimum....all else you stated sounds logical enough, good luck!
Hope with at least replacing that pump all works out! That inertia switch is easy enough to bypass for testing purposes at the minimum....all else you stated sounds logical enough, good luck!
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