1995 E150 Club Wagon Stalling
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
1995 E150 Club Wagon Stalling
I own a 1995 Ford E150 Club Wagon 5.8L. It has approximately 118,000 miles on it. New transmission in March 2013. Tuneup and brakes redone in October 2012.
After driving my van for 30 minutes or more, it will stall when slowing down to stop. Typically if I wait a minute it will start again and I will be able to drive until the next stoplight/sign. When it stalls it acts like it choking out and/or not getting enough fuel. This only happens when it hot outside (75 degrees or hotter). This does not happen when on the highway either.
I've replaced the fuel filter, EGR, TPS, IAC, and MAP. It was recommended that I clean the MAF. O'reilly's told me that there is a MAF sensor located directly on the air filter but I do not see one. I also checked the air intake hoses but it's not in there either. The associate said if it's a 1995 there is one but if it's really a 1994 there is only a MAP.
Any suggestions would be great.
After driving my van for 30 minutes or more, it will stall when slowing down to stop. Typically if I wait a minute it will start again and I will be able to drive until the next stoplight/sign. When it stalls it acts like it choking out and/or not getting enough fuel. This only happens when it hot outside (75 degrees or hotter). This does not happen when on the highway either.
I've replaced the fuel filter, EGR, TPS, IAC, and MAP. It was recommended that I clean the MAF. O'reilly's told me that there is a MAF sensor located directly on the air filter but I do not see one. I also checked the air intake hoses but it's not in there either. The associate said if it's a 1995 there is one but if it's really a 1994 there is only a MAP.
Any suggestions would be great.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Well, my van started stalling again today. Same symptoms as before. I am at a complete loss here. I've asked multiple car care professionals but they can't seem to figure it out and the online forums have not helped either.
Is there anyone out there that can help? I don't know what else to do. It's my only vehicle.
Is there anyone out there that can help? I don't know what else to do. It's my only vehicle.
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,351
Likes: 8
Among "multiple car care professionals" did anyone hook up an OBDI Fault Coder Reader?
When I suffered intermittent gremlins that stumped the recommended FORD experts & got branded as Blue Oval Disease I bought an On Board Diagnostics code reader. Next time it acted up I hooked it up & got a code that nailed the defective device. It was a recent replacement eliminated from suspicion b/c it was new, but was defective.
Well, my van started stalling again today. Same symptoms as before. I am at a complete loss here. I've asked multiple car care professionals but they can't seem to figure it out and the online forums have not helped either.
Is there anyone out there that can help? I don't know what else to do. It's my only vehicle.
Is there anyone out there that can help? I don't know what else to do. It's my only vehicle.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
I had the code reader hooked up twice. Each time there were different results. I replaced the first part that was setting off the code. The second time the O2 sensor was reading as faulty. I did not replace that yet since it was explained to me that with the continued stalling the O2 sensor may just be reading wrong if something "up front" isn't working correctly.
I'm curious that if living in Denver (high altitude) could be causing something to function incorrectly - combined with the heat since it only stalls when its hot outside (previous owner has never had any issues during the winter). Does the temperature gauge or fuel mixture ratios need to be calibrated to compensate for this?
I'm curious that if living in Denver (high altitude) could be causing something to function incorrectly - combined with the heat since it only stalls when its hot outside (previous owner has never had any issues during the winter). Does the temperature gauge or fuel mixture ratios need to be calibrated to compensate for this?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,667
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
There are three things that can cause the problem you are having:
1. Fuel pump (FDM).
2. The Black ICM (do not replace it with a Gray one)
3. and most likely a bad PIP sensor mounted on the stator assembly inside the distributor.
1. Fuel pump (FDM).
2. The Black ICM (do not replace it with a Gray one)
3. and most likely a bad PIP sensor mounted on the stator assembly inside the distributor.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Thanks for the info! I'll look into the ICM and PIP.
I've heard the fuel pump as a possible solution but to me it doesn't make sense. Can you elaborate on why? Everything I've read basically states that once a fuel pump goes bad it's done. My van runs fine when it's colder outside (under 70 degrees or so) and only has issues once it's been running a while and I'm in stop and go traffic when it's hot outside. It runs fine on the highway in hot temperatures. What would make the fuel pump work fine sometimes and not others?
I don't know a lot about do it yourself vehicle repairs but I'm trying to learn so I can save some money.
I've heard the fuel pump as a possible solution but to me it doesn't make sense. Can you elaborate on why? Everything I've read basically states that once a fuel pump goes bad it's done. My van runs fine when it's colder outside (under 70 degrees or so) and only has issues once it's been running a while and I'm in stop and go traffic when it's hot outside. It runs fine on the highway in hot temperatures. What would make the fuel pump work fine sometimes and not others?
I don't know a lot about do it yourself vehicle repairs but I'm trying to learn so I can save some money.
Trending Topics
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,667
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
Also the PIP sensor leaves a code most of the time but do not think the ICM does when it causes it. But the Black ICM very seldom goes bad mounted on the fender.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
It's been a few weeks since I posted on this issue but I think I may have finally fixed the stalling issue. I went to another mechanic and he said that the fuel line was heating up causing the fuel to vaporize when it became hot. I went ahead and changed the lines and added insulation around them as well. Seemed to correct the issue but a few days later the van started stalling again. I also noticed the engine was starting to feel a little "rough" when driving. I decided to change the fuel pump. So far the engine is running smoother and I've had no stalling issues in a couple days of thorough testing/driving.....fingers crossed.
I have noticed something new. My check engine light will come on for a couple of miles but then turn off. It's happened once each of the last couple days. I tried to get the codes read but by time I got to O'reilly's the light was off. They told me they can't check the codes without the light being on. Any ideas?
I have noticed something new. My check engine light will come on for a couple of miles but then turn off. It's happened once each of the last couple days. I tried to get the codes read but by time I got to O'reilly's the light was off. They told me they can't check the codes without the light being on. Any ideas?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,667
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
Not true. Once the light comes on there will be a code to be read light on or off.
You can check the code yourself.
Go to the link below or buy a Equus 3145 code reader.
The code will be in CM.
The CM stored codes read out right after the KOEO read out.
Fuel Injection Technical Library » How To Run a Self-Test
/
You can check the code yourself.
Go to the link below or buy a Equus 3145 code reader.
The code will be in CM.
The CM stored codes read out right after the KOEO read out.
Fuel Injection Technical Library » How To Run a Self-Test
/
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,351
Likes: 8
Note that in my case "multiple car care professionals" did hook up OBD1 scanner & came up empty.
Also the Check Engine Light never came on.
The OBD1 scanner I bought was an Equus 3145.
Among "multiple car care professionals" did anyone hook up an OBDI Fault Coder Reader?
When I suffered intermittent gremlins that stumped the recommended FORD experts & got branded as Blue Oval Disease I bought an On Board Diagnostics code reader. Next time it acted up I hooked it up & got a code that nailed the defective device. It was a recent replacement eliminated from suspicion b/c it was new, but was defective.
When I suffered intermittent gremlins that stumped the recommended FORD experts & got branded as Blue Oval Disease I bought an On Board Diagnostics code reader. Next time it acted up I hooked it up & got a code that nailed the defective device. It was a recent replacement eliminated from suspicion b/c it was new, but was defective.
The OBD1 scanner I bought was an Equus 3145.
