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Help with 1950 F1 Flathead V8
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 128
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From: Garden City KANSAS
Help with 1950 F1 Flathead V8
Hey guys, I recently brought home a 1950 F1. The previous owner had a flathead V8 rebuilt, he did say that they started the engine, but never put it in the truck. The heads have the casting number EAB6050D on them if that matters. The engine has been sitting in the bed of the truck, under canvas tarp, under a carport for about 3 years. My question is how to proceed with the use of the engine. I removed the spark plugs, and sprayed PB Blaster into all the cylinders before trying to turn the engine. When I tried to turn it it turned easily so I was happy. I little more turning and STOP. No more turning. So I turned it back the other way, and it turned easy for a bit and then the same thing STOP. Now I haven't tried very hard to get it "passed" the stop, but I don't want to hurt anything. Any help would be greatly appreciated... Please help me get her back on the road
!!!
Welder User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,269
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From: northwest MT
Sounds like a valve is stuck. Pretty common on an engine that has set for a while.
Best bet is to remove the intake manifold and watch the valves as you turn. Don't force it by turning the engine. Spray the stuck valve with some PB and carefully try to work it up and down with a valve tool if you have one, or a pry bar or similar if you don't. You should get it that way, if not you may have to remove a head
Edit... While you have it open, lube all of the valves and lifters with motor oil, they are probably dry from sitting.
Best bet is to remove the intake manifold and watch the valves as you turn. Don't force it by turning the engine. Spray the stuck valve with some PB and carefully try to work it up and down with a valve tool if you have one, or a pry bar or similar if you don't. You should get it that way, if not you may have to remove a head
Edit... While you have it open, lube all of the valves and lifters with motor oil, they are probably dry from sitting.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2013
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From: Garden City KANSAS
Ok guys, good news, and bad news. The good news is I have the intake manifold off and I have found the stuck intake valve. Its on the second cylinder back from the front on the drivers side. The bad news is that I can not get it to move
. In the right position, I can get a small putty knife between the lifter and the valve stem and pry a little, but the valve will not budge. Now what? If I remove the head, then what? Tap it down? Is there a certain order to remove the head bolts? Will I need to replace the valve? I have sprayed it with deep creep penetrating oil, and plan to leave it for a day or so...
. In the right position, I can get a small putty knife between the lifter and the valve stem and pry a little, but the valve will not budge. Now what? If I remove the head, then what? Tap it down? Is there a certain order to remove the head bolts? Will I need to replace the valve? I have sprayed it with deep creep penetrating oil, and plan to leave it for a day or so...
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,294
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From: NM
Hate to state the obvious, but that is not a freshly rebuilt engine. You can try to pry the valve down, but honestly I'd pull the head and see what shape the cylinders are in, as well as addressing that valve. Since it's an intake you can try squirting more weasel juice down the intake port to loosen it up, but I'm suspecting the engine is not in the condition you were led to believe. Worth a peek, a head gasket is only $20.
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Junior User
Joined: May 2007
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From: Central Maryland
I would also suggest pulling the heads. There could be other issues you would only see by pulling the head. My negative experience included a valve seat insert that had come loose from the block. Running the engine did some damage to the block. Cost of new head gaskets is not that much in the grand scheme of things.
Duane.
Duane.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2013
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From: Garden City KANSAS
Ok, thanks for your replies... Its going to have to wait until next weekend, as my job is once again interfering with workin on my trucks
. One more question is there any particular order to remove the head bolts? Also ALBUQ, when you say "not a freshly built engine" does it look really bad?
. One more question is there any particular order to remove the head bolts? Also ALBUQ, when you say "not a freshly built engine" does it look really bad?
Believe Nothing
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 7,514
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From: W. Central FL.
Comments: The pictures show an engine that is not freshly rebuilt. It could have possibly been freshened up with rings, bearings, what ever a shade tree mechanic decided to do to it. A quality rebuilt engine would not have the sludge, crud build up and cricket legs that engine shows. No, the head bolts do not have to be removed in any sequence. If it were mine, I would do as suggested, remove the heads at least for inspection. If it were mine, I would go farther and pull the pan for inspection of the lower end.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,294
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From: NM
I don't think it necessarily looks real bad, but that amount of sludge would take at least 20-30k miles to accumulate. Looks like it may have been running cool too, any decent detergent oil would have prevented most of that. In other words, the engine may have been abused -- infrequent use, not getting fully warmed up, lackadaisical oil changes. Does the engine have an oil filter on the driver's side head? I think I see one.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,294
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From: NM
O'Reilly's (used to be Schuch's / Checker / et al) is the cheapest place to get FelPro complete gasket sets, $59 as I recall. If you have to get motor mounts, be sure they are specifically for a '52; 48 - 51 are slightly different. V8 and 6-cyl are the same for '52.