Hi all,

A newbie here. I have a 1953 f100 with 302 and toploader 3 spd OD. I have the original strong arm steering now and am looking to go to power steering. I see there is the kit using the 79 to 84 toyota set up option, the mustang ifs option and at performance on line a bolt on rack and pinion unit. Any thoughts as to which route is best, easiest and will require the least changes. I am a novice wrench turner. Is this something I could take on myself? I should add that I want to do some additional mods later including front disc conversion, headers and dual exhaust (probably shorty headers), and possibly a lowering kit (performance online has some nice looking kits for this as well). Which steering set up is least likely to give me clearance issues later
Thanking you in advance for your advice.
Kelly

 

Hey Kozo,
Welcome Aboard! You will get's lot's of opinions on front suspension
alternatives. A lot of guys have installed the Heidt's Mustang II Type IFS - you can find the guidance you need on here for that one. Personally we went with a No Limit IFS for our 1950. Pretty pricey at $2.4K with new brakes & master cylinder - Parts Only. Another $2K for labor to install it.

Replacing your rear suspension is pretty straight forward - takes a weekend or two - well within reach of a beginner wrencher. A total front IFS replacement is a lot more involved - normally involving cutting into the frame & extensive welding - not a novice project. I wouldn't jump on that one as my first project. Putting in the Toyota Power Steering unit is something you could do as a good project.

Good luck over there. Posting Pics will get you more replys & interest on this topic.

Ben in Austin
1950 F1

 

Since you are a "novice wrench turner" I would assume you are less than novice welder/fabricator. That's OK, good to admit and work within your abilities than to jump in way over your head. IMHO There is only one option for you to be considering: The beam axle/parallel leaf suspension with the Toyota PS box.
It has many advantages for you, and no downsides.
1. Least expensive especially if you find a used box (not difficult).
2. Can be done in stages over several weekends in the driveway or backyard. (one long weekend if the axle doesn't need rebuilding or is being replaced with a dropped axle)
3. No welding or major fabricating needed.
4. Can be done with the front sheet metal in place (altho it is easier if you take off the driver's side or both inner fender panels.
5. Can be significantly lowered easily by modifying or replacing the springs, using a dropped axle.
6. Best engine/steering/header clearances.
7. Ride and handling equal to most late model 1/2T pickup (with softened springs and proper alignment).
8. Easily upgraded.

Read all about your options here:
Toyota Steering Box Swap For 1948-1960 Trucks .: Articles

 

Hi Ben and AXRacer,

Thank you both for your great replies. Ben had suggested posting some pictures for more information. Haven't figured out how to do that, but here is the link to the performance online kit:

1948-56 FORD F-1 TRUCK and FORD F-100 TRUCK, RACK AND PINION STEERING KIT 19697

I have read the thread re the toyota swap and that sounds reasonable, am I underestimating the install on the rack and pinion? (Sounds like the mustang IFS is a little beyond my abilities). Like AXracer noted, better to be honest about what you can do, saves having to have someone fix your problems later which is always more expensive.

Thanks again for your input. Really appreciate the great advice and how great everyone is on this site.

Cheers,
Kelly Sooke, British Columbia, Canada

 

That rack and pinion setup is relatively new and still unproven. I have 3 major concerns with the rack being attached to the axle:
1. The steering shaft has to be able to move and change lengths constantly to maintain the connection between the steering column and the rack and absorb road shock. The units I've seen use a combination of steering U joints and shaft slip joints to accommodate all this movement. I would be concerned about using these U joints in such a manner they were not designed for, and the slip joints wearing and binding in real world use.
2. Since the steering box is constantly moving with the axle, the PS hoses also need to move constantly, a use they were not designed for. The hoses used on the ram assist cylinders are significantly heavier than a standard PS hose and don't move as much as this setup, but they still have a tendency to weep and crack.
3. Moving the steering box from the chassis to the axle is transferring a significant weight from being sprung weight to unsprung weight. Adding unsprung weight to the suspension is always detrimental to ride and handling.

Oh, 4. It's also expensive, and I suspect the geometry without a solid tie rod. I notice that they do not show the steering arms in place in the picture. I'm not in favor of being someone's beta tester when there is other proven options available.