need help with carb - autolite 2100
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need help with carb - autolite 2100
can anyone help me figure out whats going on with my 65 352 with autolite 2100 carb?
I just put carb kit in and it starts fine , idles fine , but as soon as I try to accelerate it dies. Ive tried adjusting idle screws in and out, choke is open,
throttle plates closed , as soon as I open them it dies. any ideas ??
thanks joe
I just put carb kit in and it starts fine , idles fine , but as soon as I try to accelerate it dies. Ive tried adjusting idle screws in and out, choke is open,
throttle plates closed , as soon as I open them it dies. any ideas ??
thanks joe
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 860
Likes: 13
From: Asheville, NC
try this link if you have an auto tranny
The link below is to a service manual for the 2100 carb. If the anti-stall dashpot is out of adjustment with an automatic transmission it could result in your problem. See page 2-44 and Figure 3.27 in the link below.
Good Luck,
Gavin
Autolite 2100 Carburetor Manual
Good Luck,
Gavin
Autolite 2100 Carburetor Manual
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,014
Likes: 91
From: Concord, CA
can anyone help me figure out whats going on with my 65 352 with autolite 2100 carb?
I just put carb kit in and it starts fine , idles fine , but as soon as I try to accelerate it dies. Ive tried adjusting idle screws in and out, choke is open,
throttle plates closed , as soon as I open them it dies. any ideas ??
thanks joe
I just put carb kit in and it starts fine , idles fine , but as soon as I try to accelerate it dies. Ive tried adjusting idle screws in and out, choke is open,
throttle plates closed , as soon as I open them it dies. any ideas ??
thanks joe
Ok, I assume you have the carb correctly adjusted to all specs supplied in the rebuild kit, or not?
Adjusting the idle screws will do nothing for you since that only adjusts the fuel for the idle circuit. So take them out 2 1/2 turns to start and leave there for now.
Anti-stall dashpot is only to keep the car from stalling when the gas pedal is released quickly and the throttle plates close immediately for automatics.
You say the problem is when you try to accelerate which means your power circuit which has to give you a good shot of fuel in order to start moving or when you nail the accelerator. So is the rod in the correct holes for the power valve arm and the throttle arm? Power valve is either in or out and the throttle is #1,2,3 or 4. Conversely, if the shot floods the engine you will stall quickly also.
Are you opening the throttle plates by hand? Does it stall if you open ever so slowly or only with a more normal blip? Have you looked down the throat, opened the plate and moved the throttle quickly to see the shot of fuel down the throat?
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Mike, rod is set correct. it dies even when I touch throttle linkage just slightly
haven't looked down throat , will check that.
the accelerator pump arm doesn't even move before it dies.
this has a manual transmission.
thanks joe
haven't looked down throat , will check that.
the accelerator pump arm doesn't even move before it dies.
this has a manual transmission.
thanks joe
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
How many years did the carb kit sit on a shelf before it was sold/installed? New accelerator pump diaphram (C4AZ-9B559-A / Motorcraft CM-463) could be as hard as a rock.
Hardened diaphram usual cause for bogging down, hesitating, stumbling from a dead stop or when accelerating at speed.
Accelerator pump check valve (C4AZ-9576-A / Motorcraft CM-825) is located behind diaphram. Has a tiny tit on it that fits into the equally tiny hole in the carb.
It can be a real b!tch getting that tit into the hole without it snapping off.
btw: Did you remember to re-install the diaphram's return spring (C4TZ-9636-A / Motorcraft CM-546) when you installed the new diaphram? Coil spring fits behind diaphram.
Unknowing peeps remove diaphram, don't pay attention when doing so, coil spring flies out. Peeps re-assemble without spring, cuz they're unaware it's layin' around somewhere, probably on the ground.
Hardened diaphram usual cause for bogging down, hesitating, stumbling from a dead stop or when accelerating at speed.
Accelerator pump check valve (C4AZ-9576-A / Motorcraft CM-825) is located behind diaphram. Has a tiny tit on it that fits into the equally tiny hole in the carb.
It can be a real b!tch getting that tit into the hole without it snapping off.
btw: Did you remember to re-install the diaphram's return spring (C4TZ-9636-A / Motorcraft CM-546) when you installed the new diaphram? Coil spring fits behind diaphram.
Unknowing peeps remove diaphram, don't pay attention when doing so, coil spring flies out. Peeps re-assemble without spring, cuz they're unaware it's layin' around somewhere, probably on the ground.
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thanks all for your thoughts, I had checked most of the same things mentioned , so today I removed it again and recleaned everything rechecked everything , didn't find anything wrong, put it back together and back on truck. started right up but now idleing at 2000 rpm. can't slow it down even with idle screws all the way in. has to be leaking gas somewhere, so it must be flooding when I hit the throttle, I've about had it. is there a good (reasonable) 2 barrel upgrade carb out there that will bolt right on my existing manifold?
thanks again
joe
thanks again
joe
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 166
Likes: 6
The Holley 2300 has the same bolt pattern and is available new. There are two versions of that carburetor, one for a truck like yours (#0-7448) and one for circle track racing (#0-4412). Don't let anyone talk you into a 4412.
Holley Performance Products 350 CFM Two Barrel Carburetor 0-7448
Holley Performance Products 350 CFM Two Barrel Carburetor 0-7448
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Posting Guru
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i had a problem once where the gasket on the power valve wasn't quite right, and it leaked like a net. if i remember correctly, to troubleshoot it, i pulled the carb, and sat it up on blocks of 2x4 in a Blitz metal tray.
i removed the horn, poured gas in the bowl, and watched it pour right through.
the 2100 is a good carb-don't give up on it yet.
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Finally Got it
I took carb off again today, put it on my bench, filled float bowl with gas and watched it run out on the bench! Thanks Rusty, it was the power valve brand new from a zone , put in the old one and put carb back on and she took right off. idle is set a 550 rpm and its running great! , would never have thought a new part would be bad right from the start.I think Ill have a friendly conversation with the auto zone manager tomorrow.
thanks to all for your input.now if I could just get that gas gauge working
joe
thanks to all for your input.now if I could just get that gas gauge working
joe
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,375
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From: seattle
Autozone...while they have great prices...some parts quality is seriously lacking...had a new indian i think wheel cylinder that would seat in the backing plate...ended up taking back and spending 2 bucks more for bendix...dropped in like a charm...
Ive been through my 2100 semi recently...it is a good carb...and I hunted down a fresh MotorCraft kit...some things im hell bent on being a FoMoCo piece..it was nice n fresh too...with shipping from back east it was around 40 bucks...money well spent...I am a name brand shopper...especially on car parts!!! I try whenever possible to get USA made parts as well...Gates belts and hoses are an excellent example....as is Bendix brake parts...who is the OE supplier for our trucks with few exceptions...depends how the truck was assembled originally...
- cs65
Ive been through my 2100 semi recently...it is a good carb...and I hunted down a fresh MotorCraft kit...some things im hell bent on being a FoMoCo piece..it was nice n fresh too...with shipping from back east it was around 40 bucks...money well spent...I am a name brand shopper...especially on car parts!!! I try whenever possible to get USA made parts as well...Gates belts and hoses are an excellent example....as is Bendix brake parts...who is the OE supplier for our trucks with few exceptions...depends how the truck was assembled originally...
- cs65
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autolite carb rebuild video
to anyone interested I just found this very good video on the autolite 2100 rebuild at
Motorcraft 2100 Carburetor Repair Kit
Motorcraft 2100 Carburetor Repair Kit
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Autozone...while they have great prices...some parts quality is seriously lacking...had a new indian i think wheel cylinder that would seat in the backing plate.
Ended up taking back and spending 2 bucks more for bendix...dropped in like a charm...
I've been through my 2100 semi recently...it is a good carb...and I hunted down
a fresh Motorcraft kit.
Ended up taking back and spending 2 bucks more for bendix...dropped in like a charm...
I've been through my 2100 semi recently...it is a good carb...and I hunted down
a fresh Motorcraft kit.D4AZ-9A586-A (replaced C2AZ-9A586-B) .. 2100 series 2V Auto-Lite/Motorcraft Carburetor Kit (Motorcraft CT-499-D).
ALL 1962/74 Passenger Cars/Trucks, 1966/74 Bronco's & 1969/74 Econolines.
MSRP: $33.42 // FTE sponsor horizonpartsguy.com price: $20.05 / Horizon Ford in Seattle (Tukwila) WA