Hi everyone. I just changed the plugs and wires on my 2008 Ranger 3L.Now it runs rough with no power. It was fine before I did the work but I thought I should change the plugs at 215000KM. I used Ford wires but unfortunately I used Bosh platinum plugs and now think I will change to Ford plugs. Do you think the Bosch plugs would be that bad for the Ranger? Also does anyone know the belt tensioner torx size? I had to move the A/C compressor over to get the #4 plug but had a very hard time trying to loosen the belt. Thank you.

 

Belt idler should be very easy to rotate without a torx bit. Look for a square maybe a 1/2" drive size hole in the belt tensioner. Check the owner's manual for correct plugs.

 

Ranger engines seem partial to Motorcraft/Autolite Plugs, preferably iridium plugs.

Are you sure that you installed the plug wires correctly? If two or more are incorrectly routed, your V-6 turns into a rough running 4 cylinder engine.

 

From this forums Tech Info thread, here is a link to the 3.0L Tech info page, in which you'll find all sorts of good wrench turning info, just for the 3.0L, including an illustration of engine, plug wire & coilpack numbering & location. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-and-tips.html

Seeing as how you also replaced the wires I agree, if you didn't replace them one at a time, or mark them, you might have some cross connected at the coilpack. Or maybe didn't get a wire or two connected well on either end, or have a bad wire set-- you did do an end to end continuity & resistance test before using?????

Or maybe you got a damaged plug or damaged a plug or wire during installation, it happens!!!

Is your 3.0L a "Flex Fuel" model, if so, it'll want the special heat range spark plug Ford has specified for it. That said Ford engines are kinda persnickety about the plugs used in our "waste spark" ignition system & seem to run best on the specified fine wire iridium enhanced center electrode/platinum pad ground sidewire lug design Motorcraft, or Autolite plugs.

If you used the multi lug ground sidewire Bosch plug, or tried to gap them, you may have problems.

If your having access problems to a particular plug, consider removing the wheel & fender plastic splash shield & go at the plugs that way, as you'll have easier access to them & its likely less grief than removing the belt & AC compressor.

More thoughts for consideration, let us know how it goes.

 

Thanks for the help everyone. At first I did have 2 wires crossed and it would not even start. I had the Haynes manual but their diagram was wrong for the 2008 as well as the one at( https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...n-and-tips.htm.) I read somewhere that the 2008 , 3L have the coil pack reversed on the engine with the coil connector pointed to the drivers side so the 123 on the pack is actually on the top . I did one bank at a time. I guess the plugs or wires could be bad but I will see after I put the Ford plugs in. I disconnected the battery for a half hour and drove it for 10 min , and then did a scan and no codes showed up. It just idles rough and no power.
As for the belt tensioner, my other Rangers had the square hole to rotate it but I cannot see anything on my 2008. I am trying to find a diagram of the tensioner for the 2008.( I also have an AllDataDIY account but their diagram also shows nothing) I cannot think that Ford would change the 2008 tensioner using a Torx bit since the clearance is very tight in front of the fan. Thank you.

 

Boy am I ever an idiot! I checked the digrams again and I had 5 and 6 reversed! Runs great. Thanks all!

 

Good trouble shooting find, fix & feedback on the 2008 3.0L coilpack being mounted in a reverse position from previous years.

 

Glad to know that your problem is solved. Its not difficult to get wires switched (That's why I only buy 4 cylinder vehicles),