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Haven't got an X yet, but am shopping and may have found one...an '05 Stroke - Blue with two tone interior. Wife likes it, and will be looking at it on the 15th if it is still there...
Questions...read a few posts...one from a gent in Canada with an 11k lb trailer. I noticed you mentioned X and B springs. The reason for the addition to the driveway is due in part to my wife and I adding a 36' bumper hitch travel trailer to the family and my one off (Suburban...I'm a Ford man) just doesn't have the capability to tow it. Our trailer is 9,200 lbs empty and 11,200 loaded. How do you determine the spring packs in the X's and what are the towing requirements for them?
Additionally, have been hearing issues with heads on the 6.0 Strokes...as there are a lot of people with V-8's or V-10's out there...I am partial to owning my first workhorse diesel. Are there merits to the issues? At this point, I am looking for a stock stroke, but would like to have a little more engine control as time goes on.
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. The new (old) kid on the block would like to hear anything you have to post.
And to 2nd Stewart's thoughts...it's not as much about total trailer weight as tongue weight, so figure that out first, then that number will give you some guidance on springs, W/D hitch, springs + WD hitch, etc. etc. etc.
I figured our SAR trailer tongue weights by going to the nearest commercial scales...weigh front, rear and trailer axles, then unhook and weigh the truck alone. A little arithmetic later and you'll know your tongue weight to within 20-30lbs and you can start your mods with good data.
The 6.0 can be finiky, be sure to check maintenance history and get an oasis report if you can. Maybe even take it to a reputable Ford dealer that knows the 6.0 very well and have a pre-purchase inspection done.
Plan for future mods to delete/upgrade the EGR cooler and add head studs to make the 6.0 completely reliable. That said while some have had problems there are many more 6.0's on the road with little to no problems.
Good Luck on your search. My Ex is a 7.3L but I do love my 6.0 pickup!
I certainly do appreciate the feedback. I had forgotten about Oasis. As for issues versus no issues I do see a lot of strokes out there. For the entertainment issue of my post, my last diesel was 22 years ago. My wife and I bought it from her aunt and uncle before we were married. (insert uncontrollable laugh here...) it was a 1982 Chevy Chevette diesel-non turbo. Obviously times change and now I am selling my Suburban and going back to the blue oval. I do intend on changing the factory head bolts or studs to ARP. This was something I have already been thinking about.
Again, to everyone...I do thank you for the input. It is always helpful.
To Stewart H, thanks for the screen name comment. It is actually my plate on my '03 Hog. I'm sporting 540 horses when asked to define the plate, I tell them they can line up against me at the light. Lol.
Robert I Ross, as for the hitch, I am running one of the newer design Equalizer hitches. Strangely enough, when I brought my TT home, I towed it behind my half ton Suburban with no trailer brake controller. Truck only dropped about 1 1/2" in the back and rode well. As for no trailer brakes...I was only 3 miles from the dealer to my house on completely level ground, and no I won't tow it again until the X joins the family.
Sader...for those of us coming back to diesels, why EGR delete? Sorry. I am very mechanically inclined, however don't know the ins and outs of the strokes.
I tow a 35'6" trailer that weights 10500lbs loaded with 1100-1300lbs tongue weight using a Propride hitch. Tows great with the mods to the Ex as well as rides and handles well empty. For front springs most use the V code and some the X code. The Ex's all come from the factory with weak, soft springs with very little range for suspension travel and the Ex is bouncing off the front bump stops until the springs are changed. On the back the stock spring is a little soft for towing so you can get some axle wrap. The most popular options on the back are RAS, B code or modified B code. I am running the V code front with mod B code in the back. Better shocks also help.
As far as the 6.0l, yes it can have headgasket issues that normally stem oil cooler and EGR issues. The first thing that can happen is the oil cooler starts to get plugged up which in turn decreases the amount of coolant going through the EGR cooler which then ruptures sending coolant into the head. The steam then creates extra pressure which in turn can blow the headgaskets. Two theories on the oil cooler plugging - casting sand from the block as well as the gold coolant starting to gel can cause the plugging. Preventative maintenance may be able to avoid this if it is not to late. A coolant filtration system can help filter out all the stuff that plugs the oil cooler. A gauge pack to monitor the difference between oil temp and coolant temp of more than 15 degrees indicates the oil cooler is plugging and needs to be dealt with. I am running the Edge Insight gauge - scangauge is also popular for monitoring this. Some will also delete the EGR cooler. With these options and keeping a close eye on maintenance you may get along without headgasket issues. Adding performance upgrades and you are likely to have headgasket issues at some point. For this reason I have done the ARP's so I could run a 140hp SCT computer tune. I have done other mods as well.
It is good to know this ahead of purchase so you can make an informed decision. I knew about most of this prior to purchase and have made the necessary upgrades. I am very happy with the Ex for a family tow vehicle. I am just scratching the surface with a lot of this but it should give you a basic idea of what you may want to upgrade.
Red Ex, thanks for the info. An informed decision is always better than one that uninformed. To all, I do appreciate the info. I am jotting this info down so when I go look at this X I will have a better idea on what I should expect.
Maintain your 6.0 with factory fluids, filters and service intervals and don't go crazy on the mods and she will be just fine. I tow nearly 11K all the time and she handles it very well.
Sader...for those of us coming back to diesels, why EGR delete? Sorry. I am very mechanically inclined, however don't know the ins and outs of the strokes.
Some EGR coolers on the 6.0L have been less than reliable. Some from blocked oil coolers from the "Gold" coolant Ford puts in or just plain defective.
There is a TON of info out there on the 6.0 EGR issues.
Either way your choices are to let it alone and monitor your ECT and EOT temps, Upgrade to a "bulletproof" EGR cooler, or just delete the EGR cooler and the scoop in the up-pipe.
Tossing the Factory Gold coolant is the best thing to do.
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