Do's, Don't and other helpful hints for Valair clutch install?
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 569
Likes: 0
From: Missouri
Do's, Don't and other helpful hints for Valair clutch install?
Well, I have received my new Valair clutch and flywheel. I will be doing this myself and would like any tips you guys have to make this go right. I have replaced a clutch in my nova so I assume I can handle this job.
What do I need to check/replace while I am at it?
Can i replace my up pipe donuts with out disconnecting them from the exhaust manifolds?
How do I tell if the pivot ball/bushing is bad?
How heavy is the ZF tranny?
Is it easier to remove/install the tranny with out the transfer case attached?
Do I have to remove my down pipe to do this?
What else have you experts learned you can share?
Finally, how do I get my wife to understand that I HAD to go with the kevlar/ceramic for the FUTURE upgrades to come? LOL
What do I need to check/replace while I am at it?
Can i replace my up pipe donuts with out disconnecting them from the exhaust manifolds?
How do I tell if the pivot ball/bushing is bad?
How heavy is the ZF tranny?
Is it easier to remove/install the tranny with out the transfer case attached?
Do I have to remove my down pipe to do this?
What else have you experts learned you can share?
Finally, how do I get my wife to understand that I HAD to go with the kevlar/ceramic for the FUTURE upgrades to come? LOL
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,129
Likes: 4
From: Brandon, MB
I just blocked it up after I had the tranny disconnected. It's probably a good idea.
Also, I'm assuming you mean Pilot bearing. You should replace it while you've got things apart. It's fairly easy and you don't want to have to pull things apart later to redo it. About the wife and the upgraded parts, just tell her how much it would have cost for the stock crap from the stealership. Other than that, flowers and chocolate?
Also, I'm assuming you mean Pilot bearing. You should replace it while you've got things apart. It's fairly easy and you don't want to have to pull things apart later to redo it. About the wife and the upgraded parts, just tell her how much it would have cost for the stock crap from the stealership. Other than that, flowers and chocolate?
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,601
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From: Cato Arkansas
I supported mine under oil pan with block of wood and floor jack
I removed dp for more room and easier acesss to bell housing bolts
I'd replace pilot bushing anyway think kit comes with it
I took off t case
I put new fluid in both trans and t case
Wish I would have took the time to clean and paint stuff under there
I removed dp for more room and easier acesss to bell housing bolts
I'd replace pilot bushing anyway think kit comes with it
I took off t case
I put new fluid in both trans and t case
Wish I would have took the time to clean and paint stuff under there
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 569
Likes: 0
From: Missouri
I will defintely replace the pilot bearing. I thought I read in a post about a pivot ball that has to do with the clutch fork that could be miss-shaped or out of round? I have not really looked a the set up that hard yet so I may be asking the wrong questions.
Can I tell how much wear there is on the clutch fork prior to doing the job or do I have to have it apart to gauge the wear? Just trying to get it all together now so I don't have to hunt parts or wait on shipping etc...
Can I tell how much wear there is on the clutch fork prior to doing the job or do I have to have it apart to gauge the wear? Just trying to get it all together now so I don't have to hunt parts or wait on shipping etc...
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,601
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From: Cato Arkansas
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,129
Likes: 4
From: Brandon, MB
My mistake. I didn't swap out anything with the shift fork, but I may this winter when I rebuild the tranny.
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,799
Likes: 103
From: Ashland City, TN
Down pipe is in the way but not in the way.
Easier if you remove it.
I pulled mine with the DP partially in the first time, coudln't figure the right angle of the dangle to get it out.
I got it now though.
Take your time and keep it clean.
Use proper torque ratings and good loctite. The heavy duty stuff.
Make sure when installing the PP that you work your way around evenly doing the cross pattern and dont tighten one all the way down the first time. Take your time on the PP install.
The beotch part is holding the clutch there while you put the PP up with the alignment tool in there as well. The PP is heavy.
Easier if you remove it.
I pulled mine with the DP partially in the first time, coudln't figure the right angle of the dangle to get it out.
I got it now though.
Take your time and keep it clean.
Use proper torque ratings and good loctite. The heavy duty stuff.
Make sure when installing the PP that you work your way around evenly doing the cross pattern and dont tighten one all the way down the first time. Take your time on the PP install.
The beotch part is holding the clutch there while you put the PP up with the alignment tool in there as well. The PP is heavy.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,386
Likes: 1
From: Spokane, WA
I will defintely replace the pilot bearing. I thought I read in a post about a pivot ball that has to do with the clutch fork that could be miss-shaped or out of round? I have not really looked a the set up that hard yet so I may be asking the wrong questions.
Can I tell how much wear there is on the clutch fork prior to doing the job or do I have to have it apart to gauge the wear? Just trying to get it all together now so I don't have to hunt parts or wait on shipping etc...
Can I tell how much wear there is on the clutch fork prior to doing the job or do I have to have it apart to gauge the wear? Just trying to get it all together now so I don't have to hunt parts or wait on shipping etc...
Are you replacing the DMF? I had mine done in early spring, I just wasn't up to the task.
The mechanic that did mine suggested a close look at the rear main seal when it was all apart. It was leaking a little so I had him change it, he also suggested up-pipes as they were leaking too. IIRC he didn't replace the fork or little ball and plastic thingy pictured. I think he said it was usually superduty models that usually needed the forks replaced.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,799
Likes: 103
From: Ashland City, TN
Bought a trans jack, even then its hard.
It's just so heavy!
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,799
Likes: 103
From: Ashland City, TN
Are you replacing the DMF? I had mine done in early spring, I just wasn't up to the task.
The mechanic that did mine suggested a close look at the rear main seal when it was all apart. It was leaking a little so I had him change it, he also suggested up-pipes as they were leaking too. IIRC he didn't replace the fork or little ball and plastic thingy pictured. I think he said it was usually superduty models that usually needed the forks replaced.
not sure whats up with the picture you have here.
The pivot ball in the trans will go bad as well, but those are hard to find now. Need to have somebody machine a few up for all of us.
The fork has a tendency to wear like Travis said. Mine wore down where the ball and the fork met.
As for up pipes, if they are not leaking, don't touch them, more hassle than its worth if they are not leaking.
The throwouts will go out on our trucks before anything else will.
I wish I had the money to play around with one of those hydraulic units.
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,526
Likes: 6
From: College Station, TX
I just left my trans in. Unbolted it,unbolted the crossmember, dropped drive shafts, and slid that big boy back. Rested the front end on a big jack. Had plenty of room to work and never had the full weight of it to mess with.