This is a follow on post to my earlier on.

Finally got the AE scanner in today, and tried to read up to understand on how to do the right tests and what to look for? Any help on how to start the testing?

As an update this is what it's doing and what I've done.

-It won't start unless the ICP is unplugged.
-When it does start, it will only run till it gets up into normal operating range, then it dies and won't start till engine is cold.
-I've replace the CPS, the ICP, cleaned the IPR, valve wasn't sticking, I did not replace the o-rings, they looked fine. I also looked over the wiring and connections and didn't see anything out of the ordinary. The fuel bowl refills quickly, and the hpop is topped off.
-I have the AE scanner now, but I really don't know what I'm doiing. I did run some of the tests. The buzz test ran fine. Here is the excel file from the tests.
The first pdf is with ICP plugged in and the second is with vehicle running with ICP unplugged.

Please look at these #'s and tell me what you think, or better advise on setting up the AE to test .
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Do you have any codes?

 

Battery voltage too low it should be 14 when charge. How old batteries and Alternator. My F350 wouldn't run if it 10.4 volts Need higher to run. Min requirement is 10.5 so you will need charge that batteries.

Check ICP connector for oil and wiring harness on driver Valve cover to make sure it not rubbing down to copper on wiring.


That sound like vapor lock on gas engine but you say when it cool down it would start and run.

You check CMP when it running to see if any strange numbers when it died.


What AE scanner say about diagnostic codes Could you list them all codes you see on laptop.

 

Only code coming up is the 1280, which clears when I plug it back in. I do see that the batts are a bit low now. I do believe it's from running all the tests. I have a charger on them now. Do both batteries have to be charged individually or will they charge together?

 

Both batteries are connected together so NO you do not have to charge them individually.

 

It looks like that data is from you starting it with the ICP unplugged. Is that correct? Can you post the same data trying to start with the ICP plugged in?

 

Chris, there are 2 files in the posting, the first one is wth the ICP plugged in and starting up and dieing right off. The second one is with it unplugged and running.

Let me know if I need to set up the parameters on the AE differently. I'm ready to get back out there and get this done. We're just moving about here in Alaska.

 

I think I see something now. After doing the test again with the engine warmed up and it dieing again. I recorded the results when trying to restart and it show my ICP pressure at 2172 psi while turning over. Doe's this mean the IPR is stuck open? Also did the KOEO and got of course p1280 and also a P0605 (ICM ROM error). Did a KOER and all of them failed (glow plug, cyl. contribution, switch, then got a code B1483 (Brake pedal input cir. failure) What is up with this?

Here are 2 more test results.

 

On test #1, how long did you crank and why is there only 1 line that is actually showing rpm? Toward the end of the cranking ICP starts showing pressure, but you stopped cranking. Will it build pressure or just stay there? Also, battery voltage seems a little low so you better keep them on a charger.

On test #4, is this with the ICP plugged in or unplugged? What happens if you unplug the EOT sensor? Does it start then, but die right away?

When it dies, does it cough and sputter or just shut off? At what oil temp does it do this? Can you try to record it with AE?

 

On test #1, how long did you crank and why is there only 1 line that is actually showing rpm? It cranked over for 6 seconds then died, it only showed rpm's when it started then died.

Toward the end of the cranking ICP starts showing pressure, but you stopped cranking. Will it build pressure or just stay there? Also, battery voltage seems a little low so you better keep them on a charger. I'm not really sure about this one, kinda weird that it only showed pressure after it died. Normally it has been showing pressure during the cranking cycle. As for the batteries they are a little over a year old, but the testing is putting a strain on them. Correct me if I'm wrong, but you shouldn't try starting with the charger connected correct?

On test #4, is this with the ICP plugged in or unplugged? What happens if you unplug the EOT sensor? Does it start then, but die right away? This test is with ICP unplugged. Have not tried unplugging the EOT, will try asap and let you know.

When it dies, does it cough and sputter or just shut off? At what oil temp does it do this? Can you try to record it with AE? It does not cough or sputter just quietly dies. How long will a test run? I'm not sure what the oil temp is when it dies, can I just let the recording go on as long as I want, or is there a limit?

 

I tried first starting it with EOT unplugged and ICP plugged...no luck, started and died like has been.

Then tried starting it w/EOT unplugged w/ICP unplugged and it started but died with a some jerking and sputtering.

Got the truck running now with AE scanning to see what the oil temp is when it dies. Will post results soon.

 

Still trying to figure out some of the recording aspects of the AE. Looks like the oil temp was only 111 degrees when it died. For some reason it did not record. I'll run the test again when it cools down enough to start again.

 

If you have the means I would try and pressure test the heads. Pump them up independendly and see if you have a leak. The 200 psi shown the first file you posted is not enough for the truck to run. It it doesnt get at least 400 or 450 (i forget which) the truck won't even fire. If you have run the route of the leaky IPR, which it still could be, I would be pressure testing things to look for internal oil leaks as it might be time for a set of injector o-rings.

If you pressure test and the cylinder heads are ok, I would look back at that IPR again.

 

Whats the best way to pressure check the heads?

 

I could try and explain it, but this link does it so much better and it even has pictures (sorta).

http://dev.aetools.com/media/042-42555.pdf

The hardest part of putting together a DIY rig is getting the special fitting that screws into your heads. What this doesn't really come out and say is that you are basically pulling the lines from your HPOP off the heads, and putting these test hoses in their place. It will help you determine if its an HPOP/IPR problem, or a oil leak problem.