1997 Ford F350 7.3L died going down the road now it won't start
#17
#21
i think you guys are skipping over the obvious, if the number 22 fuse was popped that will kill the truck, this is usually cuased by the fuel heater element shorting out, its just a tiny solder that holds a wire in place. you unplug this elemnt on the driver side on the middle ish or towards the bottom of the fuel bowl. unplug that and replace fuse then be done with it.
#22
This is what has happened so far. Truck died going down the road like you turned the key off. We pulled it home. We checked the fuses only one blown was the IDM fuse (# 8 ), replaced it. Still no start. The WTS light comes on. Changed the CPS. Still will crank but not start. Found a broken wire in the fuel bowl, assumed it was the heater. Unplugged the heater. Still will crank but not start. No other fuses are blown. Thanks so far for all the advice. Thanks for the picture Fordpride.
#24
#26
I think He was just joking...? Anyway, sounds like you have a "no Start" issue?
Welcome to FTE...You might want to start you a new thread with your problem...
I assume your truck was running normal and then just quit?
#1) did it show or shows a CEL...Check Engine Light?
#2) Does the WTS light come on?
#3) Fuse #22 was checked with a Volt Ohm Meter for continuity - many here just unplug the fuel bowl heater as mentioned above.
#4) Have to ask...Oil less than 3K?..Recently fueled - with Diesel?
Thats a start..Others will provide more, we need feedback from you.....
Welcome to FTE...You might want to start you a new thread with your problem...
I assume your truck was running normal and then just quit?
#1) did it show or shows a CEL...Check Engine Light?
#2) Does the WTS light come on?
#3) Fuse #22 was checked with a Volt Ohm Meter for continuity - many here just unplug the fuel bowl heater as mentioned above.
#4) Have to ask...Oil less than 3K?..Recently fueled - with Diesel?
Thats a start..Others will provide more, we need feedback from you.....
#30
Ok, that's a start.....
#1) Charge the batteries....cause they run down quickly and no need to tax them...
#2) HPOP, a square or Hex looking plug is on the top...verify you have oil within 1/2" +/- of the top... extended cranking may lower the HPOP res. and will show up on your crankcase dipstick as a "over-serviced" at least it did with my thread / No start.
#3) Disconnect the ICP electrical plug, and try to start it with it disconnected, may see a "CEL" light illuminate on your dash...
#4) Check your Fuel pressure from the Schrader Valve ( tire stem) valve Fuel Bowl area) with a cheap tire gauge during a cranking session...you'll get a little wet with diesel, but focus on the gauge - as it will pulse- and "ballpark" a PSI during the cranking session.
#5) thats a start...other will chime in with A LOT more experience than me...but, Hey, we are here for ya.....My brother!
#1) Charge the batteries....cause they run down quickly and no need to tax them...
#2) HPOP, a square or Hex looking plug is on the top...verify you have oil within 1/2" +/- of the top... extended cranking may lower the HPOP res. and will show up on your crankcase dipstick as a "over-serviced" at least it did with my thread / No start.
#3) Disconnect the ICP electrical plug, and try to start it with it disconnected, may see a "CEL" light illuminate on your dash...
#4) Check your Fuel pressure from the Schrader Valve ( tire stem) valve Fuel Bowl area) with a cheap tire gauge during a cranking session...you'll get a little wet with diesel, but focus on the gauge - as it will pulse- and "ballpark" a PSI during the cranking session.
#5) thats a start...other will chime in with A LOT more experience than me...but, Hey, we are here for ya.....My brother!