I got a 95 f150 2wd,, and i got some power goin to the rear wheels and was wanting to eather weld it to a full posy, or find a locker but how much do they run for, or should i just weld it

 

Weld it... Just use high nickel rod.

 

welding it could work BUT i dont recomend it just because if the weld breaks something else could and probablly woul break too.. not to mention when you take a turn the back end is going to scoot or hop around

you can get a full locker for 500 bucks that still will be a differential and turn normal from summit, i believe its a "lok-right"

 

Is this truck driven on the street? I would not weld the rear.. If it is ONLY driven offroad then okay..

Whats 'some power' ?

In your other post you said you have an intake and exhaust.

 

Don't weld the gears it will break and when it does you'll destroy the whole axle. Get a Lockright they're only $300 for the Ford 8.8

 

alright cool thanks guys, and yeah its mostly on street

 

street use? screw welding it!!!
i rode in a bog truck that was welded up, and even in the bog truck the guy said he wished everytime he drove it that he would have just paid for a locker...

 

You can weld diffs strong, I had one that I ran in my dually (on pavement, mind you), never did break anything - of course I wasn't dumb enough to load the truck like it's going outta style, and it being a dually used in winter time with less than suitable for the conditions tires I'm pretty used to the rear end trying to come around every time I take a corner... Sure wore the tires out quick tho. Now I got a set of new expensive tires on it, there is a limited-slip in the rear axle, and the welded diff is just a paper weight in the garage - actually more of an example how overbuilding can sometimes offset poor user practice. So yes, like the other guys said already - do yourself a favor and save up and get a good locker or a limited slip, welded diffs are not street-friendly at all and can easily get you into trouble...

 

I drove an XJ Cherokee for years with a spooled Dana 44. All four seasons, dry, wet, whatever. Aside from some chirping if I accellerated in a corner, it was a dream.

My friends' Scrambler has two Detroits and it's street driven 99% of the time with no issues whatsoever. He's driven it that way for over 8 years now.

I always see it frowned upon but I've never seen the problems that are supposed to be so common.

I would spool (maybe available only for the 9"?) or full locker if I were you. Welding can be done but it would suck if a weld failed and you didn't have a spare 8.8 around.

 

There are no full spools for the 8.8 due to its C-clips design, not to my knowledge at least. There are mini-spool setups for it, but I don't think those are a good idea as they'd put lots of stress on the carrier, stress it ain't designed to handle. There are several ways a diff can be welded, if done correctly it can actually reinforce the carrier so it's no longer a highly-likely failure point - there is still the matter with the axle shafts tho... Odd thing is that even tho the Sterling axles in the 3/4-ton and 1-ton truck are of design that would be spool-friendly, there are no spools made for them either, unlike GM's 14-bolt axles and the Dana 60s - go figure...

 

yeah and thats a nother thing, it would eat up my tires,,,, the main reason why i ask is because if i have to gun in to get into traffic, it will just peal out when i do so, and then when it rains it even worse

 

Like everyone is saying, either get a limited slip or a locker.

 

LMFAO! That has nothing to do with the diff unless you mean 'one wheel peels'.

 

A properly welded diff isn't going to break. Personally I weld the sides and spiders together, to the case, and fill in the corners with weld... Never had an issue. The carrier that's in the back of my 44 shod pig started it's welded life in my old 6.9 truck when it was my dd/tow rig. Many times it saw 14K+ of trailer with 33's, doesn't sound like a high stress app with just 33's, but, that's a pile of tongue weight, and traction.
I welded that one, in the truck, with a 110V wire feeder... Took me 3.5 hours and a few beers, but in 5 years and much abuse it has been a non issue.

For a 2wd truck that's light on the nose though, I wouldn't really want to go much more agressive than a good LS... The reason the welded carrier didn't ever bother me in the diesel was the 900 pounds of engine on the front to make traction so steering wasn't affected...

 

That's what I did with mine, everything welded to everything, but I took it one step furtjer too - cut out pieces of 3/8" thick steel plate and insert them against the cross-shaft and then weld the sides and spiders to them too - takes a lot of stress off the steel-to-cast welds between the gears and the carrier, plus seals everything up pretty nice. The only reason I ain't running this diff now is cause I don't wanna ruin my brand new $700 set of rear tires...