Hey Freakboy
I luv dreaming and then I gots to work, but got a question. What kind of Bovine feces; Ox, cow, buffalo or what. I like to know what is getting dumped on me. HeHeHe
racear
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Hey Youall
I do have Steve's motor on the dyno as we speak. I am only letting the dyno run it thru breakin. Has any body ever seen what kind of torque or HP numbers one of these thangs actually make. I dont want to lean on it hard because I did build it pretty tight for it to last longer and I dont want to score a cylinder. Steve would kill me.
racear
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All i smelt was some bull feces... but a 1000 hp flat head would be nasty!

 

Freakboy
I know what happened now. I gots Bovine feces on my and I couldnt count all them zeros behind the 1. I would have swore it was 3 zeroes BUT it could have only been two or maybe even 1. Steve gonna say it better not be one.
racear

 

Hey Freakboy
I did a engine for a 78 Ford pickup a couple years back. As I recall, it had a 351M in it. I converted it to a 400M and put a stroker in. He wanted it to look stock but wanted it to be pepped up. We re did the heads and di quite a bit of work on the intake and exhaust manifolds. Didnt help the HP much but sure did make dang good torque. But every thing inside the engine is heavy. It ran good to about 4800 and then fell off a cliff
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Sounds like someone had a fun ride.. or not.. Anyway lets get back on topic here instead of hijacking this thread lol

 

Is it using 3-ring or 4-ring pistons? I don't think flatties like tight cylinder clearances, with 4-ring setup you will have a lot of friction anyway.

Here is a flatV8 dyno run with a 3/4 cam

http://image.streetrodderweb.com/f/8...lame33zoom.jpg

 

It is a 3 ring piston. Cylinders were prepared at 280 grit and then back feathered. Did not have a torque plate(making one for the next engine) so put hardened washers under bolts and torque them down so try to simulate torque pull on the walls. Running engine at 180 so cylinders will fully expand. At 160 block will not expand as much as it will at 180. Ran oil under 190 degrees. Took about 30 minutes and friction and blow by began to dissipate. Really controlled the air fuel ratio so not to wash cylinder walls down or overheat them. Ran vacuum motor on it to pull engine under vacuum. Ran some methanol so as to slow down the burn.
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What? - Could you try this again?

 

I'm sorry. I didn't explain very well.
1: It is a 3 ring piston
2: I prepped the bock with final hone of 280 grit
3: I then used a carbide feather duster and brushed the bore in reverse to plateau hone it(this is crushual)
4: I forgot to mention that I ceramic coated the heads so as to hold heat in the combustion chamber
5: When I fire the engine we control the engine to 180 degrees. 160 will not let the cylinder expand to max. When we prep the block, we clean around the cylinder with acid so that block will cool properly. Here a risk is involved, even if you sonic check, if there is a gas hole, the acid will burn thru.
6: We use Joe Gibbs break in oil with huge amounts of zinc diphosphate to reduce friction
7: We never let the engine get under 2000rpm
8: We fire with a vacuum motor attached to the engine so that the rings will not build up back pressure and unload until they seat
9: Since I did not have a torque plate for this engine, I tried to simulate bolt torque out of roundness when I honed it by putting bolts in the head bolt holes and torquing to spec(not as good as a torque plate because a gasket is not there)
Crap, did I miss any thing
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