I have discovered that my "new" F-3 (that doesn't run) has a frozen engine. I have filled each cylinder full of a rust blaster penatrent a couple of days ago to see if it will penetrate and free up the rings. I am hoping to leverage everyone's advice regarding the methods that have been used and success and failures that I might expect. I pulled both heads last night and discovered that the cylinders were not solid rust, but rather a light coating in the 2 right rear cylinders (head gasket?). I wrapped on the pistons with a soft blow hammer to see if they might move, to no avail. The water pumps are free and smooth, but the generator is frozen (I removed the belts), I tried turning the crank with the damper bolt, but didn't want to snap it off.....still stuck.

Love the site,
Thanks,
w

 

Sad that this is common enough that the Flathead Forum has an archive on this......
Unsticking a Flatty

 

Make sure the starter isn't stuck in the flywheel's ring gear. It could also be something up-top. Take the intake manifold off and look in the valve chest for rust. A rusty lifter or valve stem or two will do the same thing - since you said the pistons don't look too bad. Depending on how long this engine sat idle you might check to see if the distributor and oil pump turn....... you'll probably want to pull the engine for that.

 

Thank guys, I missed the archive.....I will pull the intake tonight.

 

The archive isn't on this site - it's on the best flathead forum on the web. Here's the main page.

Ford Flathead V8 .. 1932 thru 1953 • Index page

 

I know this sounds way out but years ago my thought was any nut and
bolt especially nasty manifold bolts the torch is the only way out. With
out taking the engine out (I tried all kinds of PBs they say brake fluid all
with no avail) pry bars you name it, this is on a 430MEL 59 Lincoln a Pain
to remove. The torch heat is still on my mind (HEAT). My idea a little
time consuming was that I removed thermostats MELs have three, then
blocked off Heater hoses and lower water pump hose. Then I filled the
block with water to measure how many gallons about 4gal. I now need
two 4gal containers I found at local scrap yard like restaurant pots.
My father in law just happened to have a big propane burner he used
to boil lobsters on. I put big funnel to top inlet filled engine while other
pot was boiling draining refilling until complete engine was boiling took a
long time. Pretty soon I got it to move back and forth 1/2 inch by 1/2
inch back and forth. Be advised there is still PB in the cylinders that I
also heated up with no spark plugs. I spent all day boiling water, I think
flatheads should be real easy MELs are a 4.30 bore. Now the big moment
3/4 drive socket on the front pulley, my son at the same time hits the
starter. Oh by the way I did pull the rocker arms off to rule out stuck
valves. Anyways It did start to turn like it was stuck in mud. All the
while I still kept shocking it with boiling water. End result is I am still
driving this car never took engine apart although when I got it running
at that time it still had stuck rings - alot of running idle more snake oil
down the carb and it finnaly broke out of it. Till this very day it uses no
oil and runs perfectly. Recap two containers some kind of propane
burner lots of beer, lots of patience, lots of boiling water. worked for me..

 

Glad it worked for you BJ - it is certainly creative way to loosen the oil-based crud in the block. Won't work on a flathead tho - the valves sit directly on the tappets/lifters and they sit directly on the cam. No rocker arms.

Force one of these over without addressing stuck valves and you will shear teeth off the cam gear - you probably don't need to ask how I know that : )

 

Welcome to FTE! From my own experience, I removed the transmission and then was able to free up the flathead. It was the trans input shaft that was stuck, even though the shifter was in neutral. Good luck!

 

That is correct, so you take off the fiber timing gear. For years thats how
I adjust valves on flatheads turning the cam by hand. That eliminates
stuck valves. The only reason I successfully used boiling water is that
pulling the engine on these Lincolns with A/C is quite involved. I still
think you should give it a try everything moves with heat. Just remember
the old saying my father used to say "those pistons didnt grow in there"

 

Thanks for all of the input......looks like I just need to take the plunge! I will dive in and pull the accessories first, then the trans. to see if I can get it free. If I can get it free and smooth, would it hurt to get it running, or should I just go for the tear down.
Thanks again!
w

 

Patience is a virtue... You'll know when you get it open if it needs work. If it's full of mouse nests, rust, or varnish you can avoid damage by a teardown and cleanup. You don't necessarily need to rebuild it, just clean it.

 

Hi, well I Just found out my Flathead is froze up. It has been sitting for 15 or 20 years. I was told to use acetone and automatic tranny fluid 50/50 mix and put it in the spark plug holes. So will do that first, I really do not want to yank the motor yet. It is the newer flat head with 24 bolts, we swapped out the original back in the early 90's, and it ran, but ended up not starting, we never really drove it much after the engine change. And I had to leave and it sat in the yard, and now am back and want to get it running. So I will be on here looking for answers. Thanks in advance for the help, Mike

 

"Cruisetopdown's" engine ended up needing a total rebuild, and I'd bet yours will too. Trying to run it isn't likely to do it any good. Where will the rust go? Straight into the bearings. Do the right thing and pull it, disassemble to see what it needs, then you can enjoy it for many years.

 

I will tell you that my engine had several issues from sitting, first off there were 2 pistons with the rings stuck to the wall, then there were several valves stuck in the guides. After 3 or 4 months of soaking with PB blaster, we were able to get it free...this didn't really matter as the block had been pinned in a couple of spots and there were cracks into the valve pockets as well as to the cylinders themselves. I had one guy tell me we could try to repair the cracks, but I didn't want to go down the "let's try and see" road, so I sourced another block from Joe Smith's Early Ford in Richmond VA. I ended up having them rebuild it for me. I would recommend pulling the intake and heads to inspect for cracks that may condemn the block as that would surely cause long term problems.
Best of luck with the flatty!
w

 

Thanks, I am already looking for a replacement motor, My shop needs serious help before I can attempt to put an engine in there and tear it down.