what is the 50 mod that i hear bout, what does it do?

 

One of the known issues with our trucks is a loose UVCH (Under Valve Cover Harness) connector. If this connector comes unplugged a little, it looks like this.



Since that plug connects the wires going to the fuel injectors, when the plug becomes loose, the injectors on that side stop working and your nice powerful V-8 Powerstroke becomes a 4 cylinder.

International (who made our motor) realized this was an issue and developed a plastic shim that slides under the locking tab to keep the tab engaged and prevent the connector from becoming loose.

Turns out a US Quarter is the correct thickness and width to act as a shim for this connector. The top of the quarter has to be ground down so the valve cover fits back on, but add a quarter to each side like this







And you've just invested 50 cents to keep your truck running well. Hence the 50 cent mod.

Also, if you pull the valve covers, then you should also re-torque your rocker arm pedestal bolts, circled in red, to 20 ft-lbs

and your lower injector hold down bolts, circled in blue, to 120 in-lbs, note that's INCH - lbs. They tend to work a little loose over time and the engine sounds much better after you tighten things up (unless you've got a tuner).

 

Chris...I guess we need to break down and do a full write up on this procedure you invented.Seems to be more reacurring patients

 

I didn't invent it. I read about it here. I just took a bunch of pictures when I did it.

 

Great pics Chris...This mod just got added to my ever growing list!!! I mostly would like to do the mod to check the tightness of those rocker arm and lower hold down bolts. thanks agian for the detailed photo's and explanation of the job that needs to be performed.

 

i did the mod about a month ago and i was amazed at how much quieter my engine sounded after tightening down the rocker arm bolts. was definately worth the time in my opinion

 

Hi Chris-

Just reading up on the 50 cent mod. I am considering removing my valve covers to tighten up the rocker arms in an attempt to quite down the racket coming from under my hood. You mentioned in one of your threads "...engine sounds much better after you tighten things up (unless you've got a tuner)."

What is a "tuner" and what does it do?

Thanks, Fishing4aliving.

 

A "tuner", (DP-Tuner in my case), is an electronic chip that attaches to your truck's computer changing things like fueling, timing, tranny shift points, etc, to get better mileage, horse power, torque, etc depending on what you ordered.

My truck without a chip sounds basically like anyone elses. But when I put the chip in, and switched to either the tow setting or economy setting, you hear a little more engine clatter when accelerating. Tightening down those bolts will help get rid of some of that engine clatter but with the way a chip or "tuner" works, you may get some of it back due to changes in fueling and timing.

 

Thanks for the reply. It's what I thought but wasn't sure.

Yeah my truck was chipped when I bought it. Previous owner didn't know what brand of chip and there are no telling marks/labels on the unit. My current chip, unfortunately isn't tunable. Seems to work - I was told with was programmed for balance of economy and performance. I get 22MPG on freeway and 16 around town. Truck has excellent performance when I get on the accelerator to pull on the freeway or when I need to get the beast moving quickly.

-Fishin

 

Hey Joe, Be careful re-torquing everything so you dont end up snapping off a hold down bolt like I did.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-my-motor.html

also, be careful with the UVCH clips, I broke one and had to replace the harness...not cheap.
Hence the $94.50 mod in my sig...

 

i saw that in your sig. the other day but didnt ask...

that type of crap happens to me all the time. going thru it right now on my camper. save money and lube bearing myself...spend 500$ to fix brakes because the seals failed and got greas on them. I'm hoping it stops at $500$....up to 300$ now and counting.

 

Your not alone Shawn...I end up doing everything twice before I get it right, and everytime I think im saving money I spend twice as much...
Thanks for the reminder....I need to repack my camper bearings too.

 

Has anyone ever tried lock-tight on the rocker arm pedestal bolts or the injector clamp bolts? I've built racing engines and everything that is not safety-wired or pinned is lock-tighted.

 

Maybe the rockers if you want to, but in my opinion, I'd avoid the injector bolts. This is pure opinion on my part, but I don't think the injector bolts really become loose as much as it's just the o-rings becoming more compressed or losing elasticity or something. When we tighten down the injector bolt, it's just pressing the o-rings into their seat to seal the fluids out. As the o-ring ages and is subjected to the temperature changes and pressures involved, I think it becomes more compressed. So "tightening" the injector bolt is really just applying the correct amount of force to seat the worn o-rings.

Again, that's all speculation on my part and maybe the lock tite would be the way to go.

 

Chris had spoke early in this tread about
"International (who made our motor) realized this was an issue and developed a plastic shim that slides under the locking tab to keep the tab engaged and prevent the connector from becoming loose."

I just cut a quarter down to do the 50cent mod and the quarter would only go about half way down and as I looked closer there is a little plastic chip at the bottom of the connection on the harness. Is this clip the international repair clip ??? Does anyone have a photo of what this clip looks like. I can't post up a photo myself.

Now should I just leave these little wedges in or do the 50cent mod ? Or do both and cut the other side of quarter ??