i had to re-read his first post like 3 times before i finally saw it lol
made me feel like a tard hahahah

 

definitely 4.11's and auto.you'll want at least a limited slip in both axles, and it sounds like you wanna do this on the cheap, spool the rear or try to find a factory powerlock. for the front yer screwed. there is no inexpensive way to get max traction and be streetable with d60 front. selectables are 700$ and up

 

hasteranger, i was about to lay into you so hard till i read that pot/kettle post. lol.

if it was me, id go with the 400, and use manual lockin hubs, with welded or locked diffs front and rear. after your done in the mud, you just put the truck in two wheel and unlock the hubs. the rear end will still be locked, but tires slip, and itd be all good.

 

the front would be streetable. i wouldnt even dare drivin a truck on dry pavement in 4x4, and all you have to do is unlock the hubs to get your steerin back anyways. hell, you only have to unlock one of em.

 

i'm gonna put a spool in my front with manual hubs, so in bad winter weather i can lock one hub and still drive on road, i know it sounds ghetto, or whack, or whatever the kids say these days but think about it for a second before you bash the idea, it'll work

 

lol. thats funny dan. mash the gas and start makin real hard left or right turns...

 

Ever try to unlock a front hub with a welded diff, or a diff with a spool?
Due to the tension applied to both axles while it is being driven, the axles load up, and the hub is almost impossible to turn by hand.
The same is true for the transfer case disengagement. The case will have quite a bit of tension, and it too will be difficult to shift.
Even in the dirt, there becomes a special technique to resolve.
Heak, even a powerlock up front requires some special care to unlock the hubs. (power lock is only a LS)

 

i'm serious, it would act just like an open diff, but still pull. an open diff works good in snow on road because one tire is stationary like an anchor so if one tire does start spinning it keeps you relatively straight and i won't be driving like a jackass cuz i'm responsible. if i alternate which hub i lock wear and tear would be even. i've had a limited slip and a locker front and in winter it sucks. you basically drive sideways everywhere and do doughnuts at the drop of a dime even with very light throttle. don't get me wrong if the snow was wet and deep i could go anywhere just fine but that powdery blowing snow would stop me in my tracks

 

75f350, to answer you, no i've had a detroit,detroit true trac, and ford trac loks. i'm going to do it sometime this year and i'll be sure to post the results/effects. i try not o drive in winter if i don't have to, normally it's just to go get friends out of ditches so i should be fine, i don't even use 4x4 until it's nesesary . people in illinois somehow forget that it snows every year and they forget how to drive in snow.

 

75350, i understand the bindin situation, and how it can make things lock up, but how does in make the hub **** hard to turn?? the **** just pushes in on the little cog gear that engages the spindle to the hub. its not actually connected to it, and should operate independently. so i can see the hub stayin engaged even thought the **** is turned to free, but i cant see how the **** would get stuck...

 

idk i'll just have to wait and see what he means

 

idk either. mine always turn, and after backin up a bit or liftin a wheel off the ground or whatever they come undone....

 

thats more or less what i was thinking, just drive in reverse before you unlock

 

well i can unlock mine when they are bound up. just the cog inside doesnt release till i find a way to unbind it, weather backin up or liftin a wheel or whatever...

 

Much depends on the type of lockout. See a Spicer Dana 60 lockout is always locked until the dial is turned to free. Because of the ramp design, the dial cant be turned by hand while there is tension on the stub shaft. An open diff will never place tension on both axles equally, once a load is removed from the pinion.. If there is still aload on it, you will never turn the dial. This is true for any style of lockout.
Example:
jack up the front end and lock the front hubs. With the transfer case engaged, and the vehicle in either park or in gear, have a buddy turn the opposite tire one direction while you try to unlock the hub on your side.
Ill bet a cold adult beverage that you cant. Perhaps the dial will turn but it ont free up. A spicer wont even turn.
This is the exact principle in which I speak.
Torque or tension applied to the stub shaft will prevent the outer ring from disengaging the inner gear on the stub shaft.

Now, for some Warn lockouts, where the dial holds the gear in the engaged position, it will eventually let go, but not as long as tension is on it. After a bit, it will pop out, and will work as desired, but this design is a very weak design.
This default to "free" design has left many stranded. A better default to lock design has advantages.
Imagine cracking a dial or a ring, and the entire hub fails. Now consider a superior design that will always engage unless it is told not too.

nyway, this tension can hold the axles together and make some disengagement more difficult than meets the eye.