'00 F250PSD 249K w/ESOF 4x4

Now that we have 2" ice with 6" snow covering the ice, I'm in a bit of need for 4x4. The Hubs lock in just fine, but they will not unlock. I have no vac leak from vac switch to hubs. After I engage them I have to manually turn the hub selector to lock then back to auto (to include a tap with a hammer) will cause them to unlock. Suggestions? Hub Service?

I've read where several of you are going to Warn Hubs. What's the advantage to them other than doing away with vac issues?

Thanks

 

I was having a vac leak and hubs wouldn't engage at all. Follow this guide, only takes around 45 min depending and should help you out...


Welcome to guzzle's 4x4 Autolock Hub Lubrication Maintenance Web Page

 

Just finished Guzzle's Hub Maintenance procedure. I found a hole in the center of the locking hub handle (where you turn from Auto to Lock). Flushed it w/ WD40 and spray silicone. after turning btw lock and auto several times and blowing air into it, got a lot of rust colored gunk out of it. From inside at the diaphram, I can feel something on the outside of the diaphram which is sticking and will not retract under spring pressure.(it compresses when in lock mode and will not retract when changed to unlock without lots of pressure) (this is what i believe is keeping the hubs from unlocking).

Suggestions...am I looking a hub replacement?

 

one more question... does the system operate under constant vacuum? or does it apply vac to engage hubs then release the vac, then re-apply vac to disengage and release vac upon completion of which ever cycle is selected?

 

I got tired of messing with the hubs and took a stroll to O'Reilly... left there with two Warn Hubs and vacuum caps for $190 out the door... so long vac leaks....

 

Warn hubs are the way most people wind up going. I will be doing the conversion soon also.

 

The vacuum is only pulsed for each operation. IIRC the pulse is only for 20-30 seconds for each action. It is NOT continuously applied. A perfect vacuum is 30" which is difficult to attain, let alone maintain. The actual vacuum necessary to lock is around 10" and unlock is around 6", relatively low numbers.

I off-road a lot and used to hop out in the rain and mud (back when I was young and invicible ) to lock/un-lock the hubs. Now that I'm older and wiser (which is debatable according to my wife ), I like to stay dry and just click the button on my dash. Sure I could lock the hubs for the day, but not all the off-roading I do requires the transfer case engaged. Plus some of the maneuvering I do (those Jeep guys sure keep the trails narrow) has me doing a lot of full-lock on the wheel at times, and I prefer not to spin my front axles while I do it. Maybe I'm just old school (or just old), but I enjoy the convenience of my ESOF. I do wish it was a little more sound like the mechanical system on my dad's Chevy, but I do have the manual backup if need be.

 

Brian42 - Thanks for chiming in. I didn't know the answer and have been following the thread waiting to see what is said. As far as ESOF with my wife driving at times and a baby in the back I feel much better getting the ESOF working by troubleshooting vaccum issues vs having her get in and out of the vehicle which isn't going to happen...

 

This is a really good step-by-step write-up with tons of good pics: http://www.frontiernet.net/~jmray/F250HubService.htm

Plus you can download a PDF of it and have it there while you do the job. That's what I did and it was an easy job.

 

Following Guzzle's guide will make the auto system work properly. I agree Brian, it is nice to have it work properly for alot of different reasons. I just leave mine locked in during inclement weather. The only downfall to the auto hubs is if your stuck already then you have to get out of the truck anyway since they dont lock in until one full rotation.
Mechelement, I forgot all about that link. Thats a good write up following Guzzles guide with better pics. That guy I believe is a member from another diesel forum.

 

He might be on a different forum, but he's got excellent write-ups. I'm new to Fords and with that guy's write-ups and pics, it's been a breeze to wrench on the front end of my '00 PSD. I do reference Guzzle's site too. Guzzle had a key torque spec. that the other guy forgot. I'm not downplaying Guzzle's site because It's great too. I haven't found such complete and detailed write-ups for my older Ford yet. I really appreciate the time and effort those guys put forth to make those write-ups. They're both excellent sites IMHO.

 

Oh I completly understand where your comping from. They both do good write ups. Yes, you did reference Guzzle I just forgot to note that you did. No offense intended...my appologies if you thought I was. Theres a bunch of good guys that all miss something here and there...lol. I will say this though....your link has better closer pics than Guzzles....but it is what it is. Thanks for posting the link Im sure it was a big help. Reps to you sir.

 

Same thing here too. Luckily my wife has no interest in driving a 20' long truck so I'm the only one that has to live with whatever's wrong.

If you're having problems with your ESOF (vacuum portion to the hubs), I consolidated some link in post #6 of this thread:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...cume-leak.html

 

Thanks for all the responses and to everyone here at FTE. I've always worked on my own stuff and hate the stealerships. This forum has saved me lots of $$$$$ with several of my projects.

I did liked having the 4x4 at the turn of a switch, but the hubs failure to unlock was unexcuseable. So I opted for the Warns... \

Thanks again Gentlemen

 

I love my Warns. I had torn into my OEM's a couple of times and gave up. I had the same problem, they would lock but not unlock without them hanging up. I've had the Premium Warns for a couple of years without any problems at all. I capped off the vacuum ports at the backside of the hubs also.