7.3 down
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Locomotive breath
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,354
Likes: 1
From: Mid Oh. Ponderosa
7.3 down
Truck would not start at work the other nite. My dp-tuner display doesn't come on and no power to the glow plugs or the fuel pump. Replaced the cps thinking that was it but still no-go. Do I have a pcm issue ? It gave no indication that day other than the idle was a little rough for a few seconds at a store, but ran fine afterwords. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Bill
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
Check the wiring to your DP switch. Check to make sure the chip is not loose (with the key off and out of the ignition). You can also try swapping the PCM relay for the blower relay. Also does your WTS light come on? Fuse #30 for the fuel bowl heater can cause this too.
Your issue is the PCM is not getting powered up. Probably a fuse or wiring issue.
Your issue is the PCM is not getting powered up. Probably a fuse or wiring issue.
Snowboard season cometh..
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,406
Likes: 1
From: Gulf Coast of Florida
One of my favorite things to snag when I'm at a truck getting parted out is all the fuses & relays; especially the big MAXI fuses. $10 is what I normally pay for a big handful, but I try to take zip-loc baggies with me to keep them clean. My point is that Chris probably has you pointed in the right direction, and having spare fuses & relays handy is always good. Good luck in finding your issue!! Keep us posted!
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 17,988
Likes: 207
From: La La Land
As Chris said above, probably the fuel bowl heater shorted.
Start your troubleshooting by removing the wire on the fuel bowl for its heater and taping it off.
An internal short is pretty common, and will cause what you've described. Not real difficult to repair, either.
Here's something Brandon wrote up a couple of years ago. See:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...ml#post5518999
Pop
Start your troubleshooting by removing the wire on the fuel bowl for its heater and taping it off.
An internal short is pretty common, and will cause what you've described. Not real difficult to repair, either.
Here's something Brandon wrote up a couple of years ago. See:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...ml#post5518999
Pop
Elder User
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 860
Likes: 2
From: Liberty Lake, WA
I would start troubleshooting by removing my DP chip to make sure something hasn't taken a crap like the PCM.. The DP tuner display is powered by the PCM so if you're not getting power to the display something is wrong.
Remove the chip and try starting..
Remove the chip and try starting..
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
The fuel bowl heater is not a critical item, even in the cold weather. Tape it up and leave it unplugged until you can fix it at your convenience (if at all). With the heater unplugged, the fuse won't blow again.
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Thread Starter
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Locomotive breath
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,354
Likes: 1
From: Mid Oh. Ponderosa
I replaced the fuse and turned the key and the WTS lite was on and then off after a couple seconds, fuse blown again. I suspect the bowl heater. The thread about replacing it couldn't have come up at a better time. It will have to wait till later as I have to go to work.
New User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 16
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same thing happend to my truck but i was driving i had lights on the dash that wouldnt come on and it wouldnt start just turn over, it did turn out to be the fuel bowl heater but it didnt blow the fuse it ended up being a diode on the pcm that went out corey at randalls performance in gladstone illinois figured it out
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 8,298
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From: Damon (South East Texas)
Thread Starter
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Locomotive breath
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,354
Likes: 1
From: Mid Oh. Ponderosa
Bob can fix you up with the fuel bowl heater. Replacement O-rings for Ford Diesel Engines
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 17,988
Likes: 207
From: La La Land
If you can read wiring diagrams, everything you need should be here:
http://www.e-toolbox.com/ads/wiring/va153486.pdf
If you can't, we'll try to talk you through it, but some basic electrical skills will be needed.
That twenty-amp fuse #18 looks kinda' suspicious. It's location can be found with the use of the diagram in the Owner's Manual.
First, unplug the brake light switch that you replaced. Test the fuse by using a voltmeter on each of the wires in the plug to the brake light switch. One of them, the LT GRN/RED, should have 12 volts. If not, leave the plug off the switch and replace that fuse, even if it looks good.
Then, re-check that wire for voltage again. If it doesn't let us know.
If it's now got voltage, plug it back into the switch and step on the pedal.
Check that fuse yet again and and let us know.
BTW, there are no additional fuses upstream to the battery, just one fusible link, which if popped would render a whole bunch of other things inoperative, so it's good.
Pop
Sorry, guys, for the
http://www.e-toolbox.com/ads/wiring/va153486.pdf
If you can't, we'll try to talk you through it, but some basic electrical skills will be needed.
That twenty-amp fuse #18 looks kinda' suspicious. It's location can be found with the use of the diagram in the Owner's Manual.
First, unplug the brake light switch that you replaced. Test the fuse by using a voltmeter on each of the wires in the plug to the brake light switch. One of them, the LT GRN/RED, should have 12 volts. If not, leave the plug off the switch and replace that fuse, even if it looks good.
Then, re-check that wire for voltage again. If it doesn't let us know.
If it's now got voltage, plug it back into the switch and step on the pedal.
Check that fuse yet again and and let us know.
BTW, there are no additional fuses upstream to the battery, just one fusible link, which if popped would render a whole bunch of other things inoperative, so it's good.
Pop
Sorry, guys, for the