Thanks Tom, I would never have guessed that was normal behavior. This being my first diesel I still got a lot to learn. Now that you mention it though it was not the same every time, the warmer the engine the less after start clicks I got.

Ed

 

Good Evening folks, Beings that this is the sticky for the Glow Plugs I'm looking for the Bullet insulated connectors can you point me in the direction for new ones? Mine are gone they just fell apart. I've called Napa and a couple other auto part places in my neck of the woods but they have came back in saying no can do, now I called Oregon Fuel Injectors out of Eugene,Or. They said they have what is called wiring harness for my 1994 IDI 7.3 F250 for $170 does that sound right or can I buy just the insulators?

 

Rick posted a link for a place that sells them online, mine have the same trouble. I believe the site is 7.3 L Ford Diesel Fuel Injectors Fuel Pumps Accessories

Just curious, is your neck of the woods somewhere in Oregon?

 

Actually southwest Washington

 

ah ok, southern Oregon here.

 

i used the bullet crimp connectors from napa. .173 diameter, and use a bit of heat shrink tuning to seal them. they work perfect, and only cost around $2 for a pack of 10

 

Awesome a DIY way I like it thank you

 

tjc did you crimp them on or solder the connections?
I used a bullet crimp connector on my broken one the other day but the inside diameter was a bit small so I had to drill it out... real pain in the ***! I will hit up Napa today and pick up some of the ones you mention.

 

i soldered them on. the .173 are a tad small, but will push on. the other size is .194, and that is way to big. if you use the big ones, you will have to crimp them closed a bit. i think tighter and spread to fit is better though.

 

A tad tight is what I need, I got 2 miles of bumpy gravel and dirt road to drive just to get to the highway from my house, things tend to rattle loose on me often.

I was thinking a good insulator on a soldered crimp connector like that might be a short piece of rubber hose... it would be thicker then just heat shrink tubing and might act like a spark plug boot in keeping the connection sealed to keep moisture out.

I am going to try soldering on the connector, putting a piece of hose over it like a boot then heat shrink the hose to the wire... will let you guys know how it turns out.

 

Hello all: I am brand new here and I have a 1989 F-Series Super Duty flatbed that has the 7.3 IDI. From what I see, the previous owner/operator put in a push-button switch in the dash to fire the glow plugs!! The key on the column is also missing, so he just jump started from under the hood! There were also Autolite 1107 B5 glow plugs installed. Totally jury-rigged!!

I read on intellidog.com that there is a newer "integrated" controller system that is better. I want to get the ignition back to stock and be able to use the key and WTS like it should be.

Should I use this new glow-plug system. Ford parts quote over $500.

Thanks, Michael

 

Welcome Steekers,

These guys got a good price for the controller. Haven't done any business with them.

<style></style>Pensacola Fuel Injection | Worlds #1 Diesel Rebuilder - FORD 6.9L - 7.3L :: GLOW PLUGS AND CONTROLLERS

 

Welcome to the forums steeker. I picked up a BWD controller at Schucks for $144 and Motorcraft ZD-9 glow plugs for $11.49. Don't pay Ford prices, call around to your local stores or buy online and save some cash. Just make sure not to buy any brand but Motorcraft glow plugs!

 

your 89 already has the "new and improved" glow plug controller.
ford switched to it in midyear 87

 

Alright, I've been all over this forum and the rest of the inter-web and can't find anything about my current situation...

First off, I am working on a 1994 F250 7.3L DI w/ turbo. It is my brother's truck, but he is currently out of the country so I am looking after it for him.

About 4 months ago I replaced all 8 of the glow plugs with brand new Autolites (yeah, I know). The truck started up with no issue and ran great, until now. The other night I went out to the truck and waited for the WTS light to go out and then fired it up. No issues, started right up despite not have the block heater plugged in. I was in a bit of a hurry, so I didn't let it run very long to warm up. I took off down the road and made it maybe 1/4 mile from the house when the truck died and would not restart no matter what, couldn't even get the WTS light to come back on.

Towed the truck back to the house and found two of the 30A maxi-fuses in the power distribution box blown. (As a side note, if anybody has a fuse diagram for the power dist. box that you would be willing to share, that would be great. All of my slots are numbered, rather than lettered). Anyhow, I replaced the fuses, checked all the voltages at the GPR and everything was as it should be.

I had the block heater plugged in while I ran to town to get fuses, so I jumped back in turned the key. WTS light came on, GPR clicked, WTS light went out about 8 seconds later and the truck started right up. It MAYBE ran for 2 minutes until it died again. Sure enough, one of those fuses had blown again, but just the one this time. As a point of reference, I am talking about the Maxi-fuse closest to the engine block. I tried it one more time in the off chance I had gotten a bad fuse, but got the exact same result.

Any ideas as to what could be shorting out about 2 minutes after the engine starts and blows that fuse?