beware
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beware
[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 09-Oct-00 AT 11:20 AM (EST)[/font][p]>1970 f250 4x4
don't ask!Crazy mouse!
Hey a thought afrom a (new)member.I have atleast 500 post here and have bean a member since oct99.
But not according to the heading.
Beware of cab corners from lmc for 67=72!
they are junk and don't match the doors contuors for ****.
Also fenders need alot of messaging.
...blue
1970 f250 4x4
don't ask!Crazy mouse!
Hey a thought afrom a (new)member.I have atleast 500 post here and have bean a member since oct99.
But not according to the heading.
Beware of cab corners from lmc for 67=72!
they are junk and don't match the doors contuors for ****.
Also fenders need alot of messaging.
...blue
1970 f250 4x4
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beware
Hey Eric,
No i havn't used their floor pans.Mine are good.
As for the cab corners,they flat out are junk!
They are made in Taiwan and only cost 19.95.
If you ever need any try to find a old F100through600 expecially the grain trucks.I have seen alot of tham with the cab corners in exellent shape.The reason they are junk is that the "dip" for our style above the straight line doesn't go in near enoughmresulting in the cab corner sticking out farther than the door at the back.
Also,
I cut the old ones out right and know sheetmetal.
And if anybody ever uses these cab corners,only use what u need!!!!!.The whole thing is to much otherwise.
The fenders seem different in the flanging and jams,but body lines are dead on.
My e-mail is oleblue70(No Email Addresses In Posts!) if you ever need anything or to BS on the 67-72.
...blue
1970 f250 4x4
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From: DOG BOX
beware
I just ordered both cab corners and a driver's side floorboard yesterday. I think I can leave the stock (cab-corners) metal where it wraps around to the back and cut it back there somewhere. I've never done it before. does this sound "do-able"? john
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beware
Hey John,
just use what you have to have.If you use the whole thing you have a lot of stuff to line up and were it curves around can be a b!itch if tacked in the wrong places,or get it to hot.
I used the whole panel on the drives side.And got alotta guff over it!!!!!
think about it,if you cab corner is only rusted at the bottoms why put a acre of new metal in and have to try to get all that perfect when most of it didn't need replacing anyway!
Find your good metal above the rust and cut out your old corner for a template and lay it over the new one and scribe it,cut it there.
You will need a MIG 110v wire feed.I use .025 wire.Anything else won't work.Some might say it will but not on this.
Where is makes the curve around the cab the factory metal is stretched real thin,yes i mean thefactory metal,so MIG is a must.
ANymore questions let me know,
...blue
1970 f250 4x4
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From: DOG BOX
beware
on both corners I have at least 3-inches of good metal after it wraps around, so i'll make my cut back there somewhere. as for the wire, I first tried .030 on some of the floor ,but it kept burning through with the settings turned all the way down so I went to the local welding supply and asked what wire to use for body work , they gave me .023 It seems to work pretty good but I'm going to practice a little more before doing the cab corners. thanx blue, john
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beware
NO problem John,
Yeah practice is needed.A person needs to be able to tell what settings to use and when,not just going by the chart.Also when you spot weld,just lay the shield part against the metal at the right angle,this keeps the welds the same everytime.Holding it away can burn through and make you miss the right spot.
Gotta go,
...blue
1970 f250 4x4
Yeah practice is needed.A person needs to be able to tell what settings to use and when,not just going by the chart.Also when you spot weld,just lay the shield part against the metal at the right angle,this keeps the welds the same everytime.Holding it away can burn through and make you miss the right spot.
Gotta go,
...blue
1970 f250 4x4
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beware
....also make your spot welds about 5-6 inches apart,then let it cool,then center of that,cool again,and when they are all roughly 3/8 apart,fill in the emty spots.Go real slow and let it cool.Sometimes you don't see the warpage 'till it's to late.
1970 f250 4x4
1970 f250 4x4
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beware
solid wire..023 with argon/air mix!!!
I tried with flux core once.It was a joke.They are mainly for outdoors welding where wind is a factor.Or for poor folk who can't afford Mig!
Thats me but have to have it!
...blue
1970 f250 4x4
I tried with flux core once.It was a joke.They are mainly for outdoors welding where wind is a factor.Or for poor folk who can't afford Mig!
Thats me but have to have it!
...blue
1970 f250 4x4
Tuned
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From: Phoenix
beware
Will the cab corners from LMC work for the lower part by where it goes up around the frame. That is where the rust is it is probably about 2" high by about 3 or 4" wide. And I need the driverside floor pan and the rear lower corners of the front fenders. Would I be better off going to a wrecking yard to find good ones? Also will a cheap Campbell Hausfeld arc welder work for this? I have heard that it will but not sure. Thanks Eric
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From: DOG BOX
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Eric,
I do believe the cab-corners will cover where they go up around the frame, but I don't think I would try
any arc welder. As for the floor pans, I just finished installing the drivers side.....they require some trimming (4-inch grinder w/ thin cutting disc) and alot of tack-n-fit. I just cut out what was bad on existing floor and wire-brushed the remainder and brushed on Rust-oleum "Rusty metal primer" then drilled 3/8" holes around the perimeter of the new one and several through-out the mid-section then it's just a matter of pushin down 'til it touches the existing and welding the holes in. The new metal from LMC is pretty thin though.
Has anybody used their front cab mounts? Would another company's be better or do they pretty much come from the same place (Taiwan)?
Thanx....John
I do believe the cab-corners will cover where they go up around the frame, but I don't think I would try
any arc welder. As for the floor pans, I just finished installing the drivers side.....they require some trimming (4-inch grinder w/ thin cutting disc) and alot of tack-n-fit. I just cut out what was bad on existing floor and wire-brushed the remainder and brushed on Rust-oleum "Rusty metal primer" then drilled 3/8" holes around the perimeter of the new one and several through-out the mid-section then it's just a matter of pushin down 'til it touches the existing and welding the holes in. The new metal from LMC is pretty thin though.
Has anybody used their front cab mounts? Would another company's be better or do they pretty much come from the same place (Taiwan)?
Thanx....John
