starter problems
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Southwest KS
starter problems
I don't want to beat a dead horse, but I can't find the answer in the threads. I got a new 6 v system, and it starts fine when it is cold. After you drive it a while, then shut it off it won't crank over fast enough to start the truck. wait a couple of hours, everything cools off, and then it starts right up. I have replaced everything, rebuilt the starter, replaced the fields (an old mechanic told me they sometimes shorted out when they got hot) cleaned the grounds, polarized the regulator, rebuilt cables (00), I don't know where else to go. 9V I guess?
Thanks for your help
Howard
Thanks for your help
Howard
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Howard, not familiar with entire situation. if you take the time to explain what happened, and when, and break down what all you have done---i will help get to resolve. the system is not that difficult to analyse, and i'm sure together we can keep your ride going. pete
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Southwest KS
Petey,
I have a completely rebuilt 46 ford tonner express. (see it here '46 Ford Tonner) we have rebuilt the flathead, all new components, I have installed all new wring, Bought new battery, and work this thing over several times. The pickup starts and runs great. everything is as good as it gets in the morning. drive it to the coffee shop, shut it off and go in and get a cup, come back out 10 minutes, and it cranks really slow. Go back in the coffee shop, wait three hours, come out and it cranks and starts just like it's supposed to, fires right up, and drives home. It has been this way since I got it running. If it's warm, you can pull it and it fires within 10 foot, and then away you go. runs great. i've rebuilt the starter, adn put all new cables exccept on, and I am going to replace the engine to firewall ground strap today. if you need more information let me know.
Thanks
Howard
I have a completely rebuilt 46 ford tonner express. (see it here '46 Ford Tonner) we have rebuilt the flathead, all new components, I have installed all new wring, Bought new battery, and work this thing over several times. The pickup starts and runs great. everything is as good as it gets in the morning. drive it to the coffee shop, shut it off and go in and get a cup, come back out 10 minutes, and it cranks really slow. Go back in the coffee shop, wait three hours, come out and it cranks and starts just like it's supposed to, fires right up, and drives home. It has been this way since I got it running. If it's warm, you can pull it and it fires within 10 foot, and then away you go. runs great. i've rebuilt the starter, adn put all new cables exccept on, and I am going to replace the engine to firewall ground strap today. if you need more information let me know.
Thanks
Howard
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did you replace resistor? if not, use standard # ru4. works real well with system and is porcelain. does starter spin freely? is bendix sticking or dragging? was armature cut? were fields replaced? bearings/bushings replaced? make sure ALL connections are clean, especially engine to frame, firewall, battery. engine to firewall ground is not enough , add engine to frame wire. MAKE SURE FRAME IS CLEAN WHERE BOLTED!!!! talk to me about charging system. is gen putting out proper voltage? just a thought--- a short jaunt down road may not be long enough run to bring battery up to full charge. battery would still have enough juice to run truck just fine, but, may not have enough to spin starter. one weak link and system acts "tired".
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Southwest KS
All 6 v, as came from the factory. Been through this problem with four batteries, and have charged each of them, before they ever get put into the truck. Some have been charged multiple times, as i know I have a short that sometimes comes up in the brake light. will run a battery down. all tail light wires are unplugged, so I know it's not a problem. getting 6.4 v from battery, to strater, 0 ohms from battery to solenoid, .002 milli ohms from solenoid to starter, think it's the connection on the strater, to the meter, as you can't really get a good hold on it, tucked back under the splash pan like it is. starter draw is 400 amps, current flow from solenoid to starter. I don't know how accurate that old gauge is though, and my shunt isn't big enough for a 6v starter.
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do any cables get warm when starting? this appears to be either starter or a current draw when sitting. is it possible that starter is drawing current when sitting? does it get warm? looked at your pics--nice truck! pics don't show enough detail under hood to interpret. is solenoid getting warm? if all wiring is new, why are brake lights shorting out? you could have current going through brake sender all the time. time to get test light out and see where current is going. somewhere there is a draw.
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Junior User
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From: Southwest KS
nothing gets warm when you start the truck first thing in the morning. it starts in less than 15 seconds, and drives away. things sometimes get warm when you try to start it with a warm engine. It it tight I know, but shouldn't be that tight. the brake light shorts out because the little fiber washer under the buld is broken, and I havn't gotten to fixing it. when you energize the brake light circuit, it trips the breaker under the dash, and you loose all the lights, it's unhooked for that reason right now. I keep soming up to some kind of ground problem when I trouble shoot. all the new paint, but I don't know if I'm on the right track, I bought all new cables this morning, and am going to put them back on as soon as I get done with lunch.
Howard
Howard
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you ARE on the right track. you MUST have good grounds in order to complete circuits!!!!! that is why i mentioned cleaning paint off connections. if connections are visible, and you don't want them visible, then relocate!! you MUST remove paint!! you can always use touch-up after all functions are working. ps--a lot of times on these trucks, once you pop a couple fuses for brake lights, the sender on master will internally short. disconnect one of two wires and use test light, should not have juice without applying brakes. if system is original, then remember it's positive ground. not hard to screw up! pos cable to block--then two wires from block ---one to cab---one to frame. you put a lot of work into rig, so it hurts to scratch paint, even if it's for grounds, but your not alone.most any good rig on this forum has felt your pain. it's OK.
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Southwest KS
I have cleaned all the grounds, and totally understand. I ran it into town (34 miles) after getting all the new grounds on, and put it on the sun meter at the shop everything tests fine, the starter pulls 280 amps when cold, then when you get it running and warmed up, shut it off, try to restart, it is pulling 800+ amps. I ordered a new starter, hopefully that fixes the problem.
thank you for all you help.
Howard
thank you for all you help.
Howard
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Southwest KS
I don't know. I lost the keeper on a valve and have the engine tore apart again. I got the starter here, but still havn't got it installed, I will let you know as soon as I know something
Howard
Howard
