Thanks. That already happens every time someone stops by the shop to pick up parts off me though. Guys always say I need to put the thing in shows. Not really my style or what I'm building it for but maybe one day I will just to see how I do.

I just can't wait to drive the thing already!!!

 

Not much time last night or this morning but I did get another bracket for the brake lines done (this time in stainless!) and then some more grinding on the grill insert done.

I'm going back to the shop tonight for a bit to get some more done.

I'm hoping to get the brake flaring tool today, as I tried yesterday & someone else was borrowing it. If I get it I'll start on the brake lines.

If not I'll continue grinding away at the grill inserts & hopefully get to headlight bucket mounting.

 

What kind of flaring tool is it? I've got the standard single-flare tool with the inserts that let you do a double flare - however, every time I've ever tried to make a double flare it's come out poorly (however, the single flares I make are almost perfect!). With the cost of the short pieces of brake line and fittings, I'll make new single-flared fittings for the rear every time I have to take them apart

-B

 

I think it's the Mac tools one but I can't remember. I'll take a pic of it if I remember. It's a NICE $400 or so hydraulic one.

And no need for double flares for me - all stuff on this truck & my other stuff gets converted to -3 AN.

 

That's awesome! I really like the AN couplers - I used them extensively on my Turbo Mustang

 

Since we're on the topic - how about a couple pics that I was being lazy about posting...

Here's the brake tab I added to the driver side spring plate. Looking back I wish I made it out of stainless. I may go back & do that but maybe not... I drilled & tapped the 1/2" thick spring plate for the bolts for it.


Here's the stainless bracket I made last night. It uses 2 existing threaded holes in the frame. I'm thinking I'll just run a stainless braided line from the master to the bulkhead here so as to avoid the coiling, etc. of the hard line. It'll then get a braided line going down to the tab with the bulkhead pictured above on the axle. You can see both of the mock up brake lines here in the pic.


Then here's 2 random pics.
1st is cad (cardboard aided design) on the upper rad. mount. Since then I've put it in real cad & have a template cut & sitting here next to me to test fit tonight.


And last here's a pic of the driver side grill insert. I like the black ones that came on this truck so that's what I'm going back to. Also the cardboard I had on the IC to protect the fins has been removed so I can get a better idea of fit & cut a bit less off the grill inserts.

 

Looks great! This quality in workmanship is definately going to be worth the wait.

 

So I got back in the shop for a pretty good day yesterday. I spent a little time selling some furniture I had stored in the shop & then cleaning up around the shop after that as I realized just how dusty it is around here. That is until a buddy called & I told him what I was doing & he told me to knock it off & work on the crew. So yeah, Steve - I never got around to messing with your sander piece because I was messing with the crew - haha.

So yeah, I got to work...
I quickly finished up with what I had started the other day on mounting the grill insert. So driver side is in & done. I was going to start the pass side, but the other guy that had borrowed the brake tool from my uncle finally brought it back. So I grabbed it & went to work while I had use of it.
Here is the tool - it's made by Mac tools and works really well on the stainless lines I've got.


So I got the front lines done. I've got from the master to the calipers figured out & all the hard lines made. I just need to have the hose supply place make a couple more flex lines & I'm good.
The stainless line I got was from summit 7 it was a 25' spool if I remember right. I've heard from others that stainless is a pain to work with & flare, but this stuff wasn't bad at all for me. The only thing that was bugging me was the remainder of the 25' spool still being attached as I was holding the stuff up to the axle to figure out lengths & bends. The weight of it kept flopping everything over & it kept met frustrated, but oh well, I'm glad that was the worst of my worries in doing this...




I also got the tabs for the bulkheads welded onto the axle. I wrapped damp towels around the axle tubes during welding to try 7 keep from getting too much heat into the tubes & therefore axle seals.


I was just about to start on the run towards the back of the frame when I got the call for dinner so I wrapped up & left. I'll get to that one night this week.

I still need to figure out how/where I will terminate the new line & tie into existing since the stock d60 rear will stay for a while. I'll do the new rear lines when I put in the 14b, but I'm not going to waste the time changing that until then.

 

Had another night in the shop that didn't seem productive at all but probably was...

I went in thinking I was going to tackle the brake lines running to the back of the truck & remembered I had to do my adjustable proportioning valve & the line lock valve I got too.

This lead me to looking at where to place those, which mean putting the dash and driver seat back in the truck. In looking at the best way to route the lines, etc. I realized some of the ways I wanted to run the lines might interfere with the clutch hydraulics, so I dug those out (hard to believe I've had them for a YEAR already) and started looking at that...

So yeah - I'm all over the board.

I spent this morning cutting a bit into the dash for the prop. valve mount and realized just now it might not work out too well We'll see...

So no pics to post & nothing really getting done aside from me "thinking" through a bunch of stuff.

Back to looking into how I will mount the clutch hydros...

 

My itch is starting again to get working on my projects!!! I just picked up another Hydroboost setup at the U Pull it yard for 27 bucks...minus the master..but with all the hoses!!!

 

I thought you were going to put the valve under the edge of the seat or was that the supercab?

 

I was just thinking this past weekend that you've been too quiet lately. Good to see you posting up & motivated to work. Good score on the hydro!


Original plan was under the seat. Some in-seat testing & the addition of the line lock valve changed that idea though.

And unfortunately nothing to report from this weekend. Only had a few short moments to get to the shop & worked on clearing out other junk vs. working on the crew. Tonight or tomorrow night I'll get back on it though.

 

Update time again! I've been working on this thing a little but have been too busy to post until now.

I feel like a chicken with my head cut of recently bouncing around wildly from here to there on the truck. You'll see what I mean by then when I get to the update...

Before that - I've been looking at my fuel lines recently. At what point is 1/2 feed line worth it? I don't plan on pumping this motor up now, but I seem to remember reading somewhere that 3/8 is small, even for a very lightly tweaked motor. Since I'll be running custom lines anyway should I just do 1/2" now???

And a side note on my side note - is anyone using aluminum tubing for running the fuel lines?

Also, I was looking at the truck & the fuel feed last night & I'm wondering if I should dump the hard line that runs up behind the fuel filter & out the back of the block. If I go 1/2" line I'll do this for sure. If not I'll probably just leave it.


Ok - back to the update at hand.

When we left off I was looking at my brake lines, which lead to looking at the clutch hydraulics and dash for mounts for my adjustable proportioning valve. Well we can add throttle pedal & linkage to that list as well. Actually, even more has been added/looked at but I guess I'll get to the pics & go from there.

I'll start with some pics of what I did last week with the dash notching for my prop. valve.




There just wasn't enough room to make it work the way I wanted so I took an idea I had been thinking about for other stuff (adding a 2nd cig. lighter) & modified it...
I then cut a bit into one of the couple spare dashes I have here...



That was it for that day.

The next time I got back in the shop was Wed night this week.
My add kicked in right off the bat & I was bouncing all over the place on what to do. 1st I got back to the clutch hydro stuff. After getting some dimensions from a guy on cummins forum that backed up my thought as to where the clutch master would end up I went to town on that. I had made a template of the bolt pattern for the master so I traced that onto the firewall & did some looking inside & out & drilled.


I got that finished up & the clutch master & slave temporarily bolted to the truck. I also made a bracket for the reservoir but never took a pic of that.



Next it was onto the gas pedal & throttle linkage since I realized I had never messed with that really. I started by looking at pics of what others had done as well as looking at what pedals I had here to work with. Here's most of them. From left to right: 86 Bronco, 87 Bronco, 86 Bronco, '74 F-250, 90's Dodge Ram


Based on the funky hole that is in the floor due to the factory pedal & how making a bracket to cover that & then mount another pedal to could be labor intensive I decided to steal an idea from a buddy & use the factory pedal & just modified the way the throttle cable attaches.
I started by cutting the arm that went into the engine bay off the factory pedal



There is a crimp or peen on the shaft here to make it so the pedal arm won't move in the bushing. I made sure to leave that part on there so my pedal didn't decide to run away from it's bushing at an inopportune.
time!

With the arm cut off I bolted it in the truck & started looking at where the cable would come through & how to do the arm.



There is a factory hole in the firewall just above the pedal here. I think it was for the rubber mounts that hold the factory heat/noise shield against the firewall. Since I don't like cutting new holes I figured I'd try & use this. I enlarged the hole with a drill & then squared off the corners to make a square hole with a file. If you look closely at the pic above you can see my marks on where to file to square up the corners.

With the throttle cable snapped into place I started looking on how to attach it to the pedal in the right spot.

I decided to use the 96 bronco pedal for ease of attaching to my factory pedal. I cut it off just above the pivot & tacked it to the factory pedal to see if I could get full throttle & full return of the throttle.



And that was it for that night!

 

Hey, that looks strangely familiar.

I've got a roll of 1/2" aluminun tube if you want it. I bought it on your suggestion and didn't bother to use it.

 

I'm not exactly sure what happened to that pedal(I'll figure it out soon enough) but wanted to say thanks for all of your pics and ideas.