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My typical idle temp is somewhere in the range of 360-380 when the truck is hot. On occasion, maybe 1/20 starts it idles around 600 and the temp won't drop. If I turn off and restart, it is fine. Any ideas on if a system is failing, or if it is just the gauge acting up? (Autometer Cobalt Gauges)
Didn't even think about that thing. The SCT has it turned off, but I may want to pull it and clean it just in case something is pulling it open and it is sticking.
Well if it is turned off it should be closed, don't know if anything that would pull it open. Could be the EGT probe is defective or there is a loose ground to the gauge. Also you may want to call and ask Matt his opinion.
Does the idle speed change and does it do it with the engine warm, cold or both?
It does it both warm and cold, if it's going to do it, the temp shoots up the minute I start the truck. Idle stays the same, power is fairly normal, maybe a little bit weaker when running hot.
It is probably NOT the thermocouple. When they start going bad, they jump over the entire range. (just changed one Wed. night on one of my compressors) They will jump back and forth. IE Temp usually ran ambient on the stage that was floated in the compressor 85-95 deg F it would jump from 87 to 196, then to 95 then to 148 ect. ect. The shutdown was set at 300 deg, and it spiked there several times, hence the reason for me getting called out. I would check the gauge ground, but again it would act much the same way if the ground was bad. I would check the connections on the thermocouple and at the gauges, 99% of the time you will find the problem at the connector.
Well if it is turned off it should be closed, don't know if anything that would pull it open. Could be the EGT probe is defective or there is a loose ground to the gauge. Also you may want to call and ask Matt his opinion.
Does the idle speed change and does it do it with the engine warm, cold or both?
If it is gunked up, gases can flow through it even when closed. The "gunk" won't allow it to fully close.
If it is gunked up, gases can flow through it even when closed. The "gunk" won't allow it to fully close.
If it is "Closed" it is "Closed", if it is partially "Open" it is "Open". If it is stuck part way open then the temperature will just be higher but still stable, not fluctuating.
Also if the EGR valve is stuck partially open you will have other driveability concerns and symptoms.
As mrxlh said, check the connections at the gauge and thermocouple.
Last edited by blackhat620; Jun 23, 2007 at 02:08 PM.
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